Best nuts and bolts

[brucelee]

Hi, a few years ago I decided to try and make fixings corrosion a thing of the past by replacing all the nuts and bolts on my bike with A2 stainless steel. This was successful and I didn't have any problems with corrosion after that. The only ones I could get at the the time were the button head ones shown in the picture, but these have a smaller hex key size for the given bolt size so when I cam to source some new ones, I sought out the normal size looking ones shown in the second photo. They have a different finish. Can anyone identify the mfr, all the other A2 stuff I've had has had a matt grey finish but these are shiny. They're off ebay so as always I'm suspicious especially as I had a similar order not received/cancelled a while back.

Cheers,
Bruce.

[rjb]

Check them with a magnet and see if they are similar.

[PH]

I've used a number of SS bolts, some mat, some shiny, I don't think it's an indication of quality. I used to think the next grade up, A4, would be an improvement, but apparently the only benefit is resistance to corrosion from chloride so no benefit to me at all.
For my fixings, I've been using Boltbase who have an eBay shop alongside their online outlet
https://boltbase.com

I've also swapped most of my fixings to Torx heads, the tool fits better in a shallow button head than the equivalent hex key.

[cycle tramp]

Double post - please see below

[cycle tramp]

I've used a number of SS bolts, some mat, some shiny, I don't think it's an indication of quality. I used to think the next grade up, A4, would be an improvement, but apparently the only benefit is resistance to corrosion from chloride so no benefit to me at all.
For my fixings, I've been using Boltbase who have an eBay shop alongside their online outlet
https://boltbase.com

I've also swapped most of my fixings to Torx heads, the tool fits better in a shallow button head than the equivalent hex key.

A4 has a greater tensile strength than A2.. I suspect Brucey will be across in a minute to remind everyone that A2 has less tensile strength than carbon steel, so personally speaking I would still use carbon steel fasteners for the stem and saddle bolts. You don't want any bolt to be snapping around the steering area...

I avoid button head machine screws having managed to round off the Allen key socket in a couple of stuck ones (yes it is possible to get stainless steel bolts stuck in a steel frame) and in some cases - rack and mudguard fittings, i've gone back to using hexagonal headed screws - you can get much more purchase on them - especially with a socket set. Plus they look fu'gly so there's less chance of someone nicking your bike

Sjsc do a large choice of A4 fasteners and where I live western bolt and engineering supplies do a wide range - where safety is involved I'd tend to buy from a reputable retailer

[PH]

I used to think the next grade up, A4, would be an improvement, but apparently the only benefit is resistance to corrosion from chloride so no benefit to me at all.

A4 has a greater tensile strength than A2..

Here are the numbers:
https://www.accu.co.uk/p/114-grades-of- ... less-steel

[st599_uk]

Hi, a few years ago I decided to try and make fixings corrosion a thing of the past by replacing all the nuts and bolts on my bike with A2 stainless steel.

Do you actually want bolts? The only bolt I can think of on my bike is the one through the crown for the mudguard.

Most of my bike fixings are machine screws like in your photo.

[PH]

Hi, a few years ago I decided to try and make fixings corrosion a thing of the past by replacing all the nuts and bolts on my bike with A2 stainless steel.

Do you actually want bolts? The only bolt I can think of on my bike is the one through the crown for the mudguard.

Most of my bike fixings are machine screws like in your photo.

Everyone else knew what they meant and people have been disagreeing about the definitions for centuries:
https://www.accu.co.uk/p/131-difference ... -and-bolts

[531colin]

Westfield fasteners.
Good website, good information, good delivery.

[531colin]

………i've gone back to using hexagonal headed screws - you can get much more purchase on them - especially with a socket …..

Mind how you go with that……in the bike trade you see more than enough small fixings broken or stripped by enthusiastic owners

[cycle tramp]

………i've gone back to using hexagonal headed screws - you can get much more purchase on them - especially with a socket …..

Mind how you go with that……in the bike trade you see more than enough small fixings broken or stripped by enthusiastic owners

Thanks for the warning the main motivation for doing so came when I had to hacksaw a grove in a stuck button headed screw to get a screwdriver blade to undo it.. again it was a second hand frame and although it was a stainless screw, it was assembled without grease and after x amount out years having road water sprayed at it, it was stuck.... if I never life to see another button head screw being used - it will still be too soon...

[531colin]

I use button head inside mudguards, because there is a smaller head to trap muck.
There is usually a nut on the outside of the guard, so it always will undo…with a stainless nut, anyway. Or you can cut/grind it off, and it’s a “consumable” component anyway.
Screwing into a frame thread needs a bit more thought.

A while back somebody was questioning Spa frames having a plain hole through the brake bridge for a mudguard fitting rather than a tapped thread… the reason is a stuck nut and bolt can always be filed off and got out…. A stuck bolt on a thread tapped in the frame not so much!

[Brucey]

strength is denoted by the second number so A2-70 is exactly the same strength as A4-70. Since torque values are usually low and corrosion is almost invariably involved in fastener failures on bicycles I think that corrosion resistant fasteners are also strong fasteners in most cases.
Note that as brine [road salt] dries it can reach any strength so nothing is truly safe.

I used to reshape/polish SS fasteners ; it isn't difficult to do.

[plancashire]

Torx is far stronger than hex socket as it has a greater surface area of contact between driver and screw head: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torx. It also resists cam-out well, particularly compared to Phillips cross.

To prevent screws seizing in threads use Loctite 243 thread sealer (https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/de/en/ ... _2430.html) or copper grease (https://www.greasemonkeydirect.com/blog ... e-used-for).