Hexlox / Pitlock experience

[LucyEliz]

Does anyone have experience of Hexlox or Pitlock (or both) locking systems (for locking parts to the bike) and any recommendations for one over the other? Also any experience of having them delivered? Hexlox says that they've had no issues delivering to the UK since B*****; Pitlock say that they won't deliver to UK individual customers anymore.

https://hexlox.com/en-gb/pages/bike-sec ... ets-hexlox
https://www.pitlock.de/en

[foxyrider]

I've got a set of Pitlocks which sometimes end up on my tourer. They certainly do what they say, that said, if you know how you can 'pick' them but it takes time and most thieves want quick results!

Never actually used Hexlox myself but they seem to work well enough when i've seen them on customers bikes.

[531colin]

Plenty of UK retailers for Pitlock; I have no experience of them.

[geocycle]

I’ve a set of pit locks on the tourer. The hubs being SON and Rohloff are the most expensive bit so I wanted the wheels secure whenever possible. They’ve been great, easy to use and not much hassle. I did break one skewer but that was user error and over tightening after a puncture. Only downside is having to not lose the special lock nut and having something in your toolkit to use as a lever eg an Allen key that fits through the holes in the bolt. I rarely remove the wheels so no real issue in taking a bit more time than a qr. Mine came from SJS, but that was 15 years or so ago.

[LucyEliz]

Thanks, all. Yes, SJS have a lot of Pitlock stuff which is good. I need to do a proper price comparison. My sense is that the Hexlox 'key' can act as the lever for the skewers (I might be wrong about that) so maybe simpler than the Pitlock system? Also it looks like Pitlock don't do a saddle lock, just seatpost.

[UpWrong]

Another brand is Pinhead. I have 4 or 5 sets of them. You only get one key with them but I have not had issues.

[maximus meridius]

I did break one skewer but that was user error and over tightening after a puncture.

Thanks for that info. As a matter of interest, how did you overtighten it? What I mean is, was this a roadside repair with an ordinary multitool, or were you using a more substantial tool?

Thanks.

[andrew_s]

I use Hexlox.

They prevent the use of an allen key on any non-stainless bolt. The insert is simple to remove with the key, provided you pull straight, but without it's less than simple - pliers, tweezers, picks etc generally don't work, but as you might expect, they can be removed if you are suitably equipped.

Some types of stainless are non-magnetic so the hexlox insert will only stick if there's a suitable magnetic steel disc glued to the bottom of the hex socket. These are also available, but it's often better just to change the bolt since a conical or shallow button head prevents the use of vice grips on the bolt head.

The key is 3 mm dia. by 1 cm long, and lives on its own small ring on the same keyring as the bike lock keys.
The size of the key and the hex inserts mean that there's no downside to using them.

I use them for all semi-permanently attached bits of bike - saddle, seatpost & handlebar stem bolts, and the bolts that hold the Edelux light on.
I stopped using them in the wheel QRs as the red coating on the central cone of the insert got worn off by comparatively frequent use when less than spotless, and the key stopped working, so you'd need to use something to cover the insert (available from hexlox, but no idea what they are like)

[plancashire]

I have Pitlock on front and rear wheels, Rohloff and SON like the poster above. They were part of the bike configuration I ordered here in Germany. It was delivered with only one key but I asked for a second and it was sent at no charge - there should be two. For the Pitlock key I have a hex key with a very short bent part permanently through the hole held on by a piece of ancient junk silicone tube I had lying around. I am happy with them. They work fine, both at home and on the road. They do not need to be done up very tightly.

Another type is from Abus. They have no key as they work by gravity. They depend on the bike being locked vertically. I can't find them on the German website. Maybe they have been discontinued. The NutFix is on the USA website.

[maximus meridius]

I use Hexlox.

They prevent the use of an allen key on any non-stainless bolt. The insert is simple to remove with the key, provided you pull straight, but without it's less than simple - pliers, tweezers, picks etc generally don't work, but as you might expect, they can be removed if you are suitably equipped.

Some types of stainless are non-magnetic so the hexlox insert will only stick if there's a suitable magnetic steel disc glued to the bottom of the hex socket. These are also available, but it's often better just to change the bolt since a conical or shallow button head prevents the use of vice grips on the bolt head.

The key is 3 mm dia. by 1 cm long, and lives on its own small ring on the same keyring as the bike lock keys.
The size of the key and the hex inserts mean that there's no downside to using them.

I use them for all semi-permanently attached bits of bike - saddle, seatpost & handlebar stem bolts, and the bolts that hold the Edelux light on.
I stopped using them in the wheel QRs as the red coating on the central cone of the insert got worn off by comparatively frequent use when less than spotless, and the key stopped working, so you'd need to use something to cover the insert (available from hexlox, but no idea what they are like)

That's some very interesting feedback, thank you. I'm more attracted to the HexLock than Pitlock (for wheels) as the Pitlock skewers are stainless steel, which is weaker than the Cromoly that the HexLock skewers are made from. Hence my query, above, about how a user of Pitlock broke a skewer.

But, my intended usage pattern would be to perhaps not bother with the HexLok a lot of the time, depending on where/when I was taking the bike. But install it if I thought I needed to. My regular work commute is HE academic term, which is about 24 weeks of the year. Outside of that I always have the bike in sight, and it's stored indoors.

But what you seem to be saying is that it's best to install the Hexlok and leave it in, if I understand it? When you say "comparatively frequent use" do you mean you were often installing and removing the Hexlok, or changing wheels often? I get hardly any punctures, and only have one wheel set. And/or it's best to clean the Hexlok before using the key?

Thanks.

[geocycle]

I did break one skewer but that was user error and over tightening after a puncture.

Thanks for that info. As a matter of interest, how did you overtighten it? What I mean is, was this a roadside repair with an ordinary multitool, or were you using a more substantial tool?

Thanks.

It was after a puncture on the moors above Newcastle. I used a multi tool so not massive leverage. However, it was certainly my fault and I’ve been much more cautious since. The skewer sheared at the bolt. The side story is I managed to ride 25 miles into Halfords in Newcastle without a rear skewer! The rohloff sat in the vertical drop outs weighed down by the panniers and held in place by its cables to an extent. I just disengaged the v brake. Not sure I could do that with discs.

[maximus meridius]

I did break one skewer but that was user error and over tightening after a puncture.

Thanks for that info. As a matter of interest, how did you overtighten it? What I mean is, was this a roadside repair with an ordinary multitool, or were you using a more substantial tool?

Thanks.

It was after a puncture on the moors above Newcastle. I used a multi tool so not massive leverage. However, it was certainly my fault and I’ve been much more cautious since. The skewer sheared at the bolt. The side story is I managed to ride 25 miles into Halfords in Newcastle without a rear skewer! The rohloff sat in the vertical drop outs weighed down by the panniers and held in place by its cables to an extent. I just disengaged the v brake. Not sure I could do that with discs.

Thanks. That's sort of confirmed my mistrust of stainless steel as a fastener in crucial positions.

[PH]

I had an issue with a Pitlock, the wheel hadn't been off in a while and the skewer corroded, it undid a couple of turns and no more, I couldn't get it off or back on. A long walk in the rain... My fault for not periodically checking them. At home, with tools, it wasn't really that hard to defeat I'm not sure anything is, though I haven't really looked at Hexlox. I now use the simpler and less secure Trans-X type, hopefully still enough to deter the casual thief and if it's parked for any length of time, or somewhere I'm more concerned about security, it'll have a lock through the front wheel as well.

[andrew_s]

But what you seem to be saying is that it's best to install the Hexlok and leave it in, if I understand it? When you say "comparatively frequent use" do you mean you were often installing and removing the Hexlok, or changing wheels often? I get hardly any punctures, and only have one wheel set. And/or it's best to clean the Hexlok before using the key?

Comparatively frequent means punctures and putting the bike in the back of the car, plus tyre & cassette changes, which is a lot more often than handlebar, saddle & riding position changes.
Cleanliness is supposition on my part, as a reasonable explanation for the damage to and subsequent loss of the red coating, so if I were to replace the two failed 5 mm hexlox inserts for the wheel skewers, I'd take steps to ensure that the inserts stayed clean.

This viewpoint is reinforced by the fact that Hexlox now supply insert covers with their magnetic/conical ended replacement skewers.

[maximus meridius]

But what you seem to be saying is that it's best to install the Hexlok and leave it in, if I understand it? When you say "comparatively frequent use" do you mean you were often installing and removing the Hexlok, or changing wheels often? I get hardly any punctures, and only have one wheel set. And/or it's best to clean the Hexlok before using the key?

Comparatively frequent means punctures and putting the bike in the back of the car, plus tyre & cassette changes, which is a lot more often than handlebar, saddle & riding position changes.
Cleanliness is supposition on my part, as a reasonable explanation for the damage to and subsequent loss of the red coating, so if I were to replace the two failed 5 mm hexlox inserts for the wheel skewers, I'd take steps to ensure that the inserts stayed clean.

This viewpoint is reinforced by the fact that Hexlox now supply insert covers with their magnetic/conical ended replacement skewers.

Thanks. I've never seen one of these close up, so am unclear why the loss of the red coating stops it functioning.

I think my wheels would come off a lot less often than yours. I don't take the wheel off to get it into the car, and have punctures hardly ever, puncture resistant tyres and careful riding (as far as possible). So possibly a better solution for me.

Thanks.