That's interesting - thanks for taking the time/effort to enlighten myself (and maybe others)Cugel wrote: ↑5 Jan 2024, 11:54amThe extra weight of an e-bike compared to an unpowered bike of similar or identical design isn't very much. It can vary from +3 kg to +6 kg. Some designs allow the battery (heaviest part of the system) and even the motor to be removed, leaving an ordinary bile with maybe +1 kg of extra weight over its unmotored equivalent design. These additional weights are nothing significant, in terms of the additional rider power needed to ride the bike.fastpedaller wrote: ↑5 Jan 2024, 10:39am I can see the benefits to some of a 'lecy help', but also agree to a large extent with Mick's comments. Some questions....... It is mentioned above about an orbea bike that only provides a little assistance when really needed (maybe I've not understood fully?), but what of the energy lost by carrying the extra electric parts (mainly battery I guess) around for the rest of the ride? I guess that is applicable to all electric -assist bikes. A very low gear will get us up a steep hill, or walk if it's too steep - is there really a benefit with electric (apart from maybe the convenience of pressing a button rather than walking) ?
An example: I have an e-bike that weighs 13.5 kg with the motor & battery in; 10.5 kg without them in but an empty motor/battery case inserted into the frame instead (which is a very handy carrier for cakes and clothing).
Most e-bikes can actually be programmed by the user via some sort of app to set various levels of assistance, as well as the relationship between varying rider power levels that invoke varying motor power additions. For example, I generally use the motor only when going up hills at the lowest assist level I've set of maximum +75 watts. To get the full 75 watts from the motor I have to input at least 150 watts at the pedals. If I input less, the motor power decreases too, on a sliding scale down to 100 watts from me = 0 watts from the motor.
These motor-to-rider power relationships can be set at whatever you like; and generally there are three or four such relationships available at the press of a button. The highest I have set means the motor will give 200 watts if I input 75 watts at the pedals. This is my "get you home if bonked" setting which I've never had to use. The middle setting will see the motor give me 150 watts if I input 225 watts at the pedals. This is my "eyeballs out get up the long steep hills without dying" setting, used rarely and often not at all on a particular ride.
I spend most of my pedal-pushing time of a ride with the motor off and disengaged. I can generally get between 150 - 200 km from one battery charge of 250 WH, so a battery charge lasts me for 3 or 4 typical +/- 50 km rides.
If I lived in the flatlands, I wouldn't have a motor. But as I live in the ultra-hilly hinterlands of West Wales, the motor is often the difference between getting home exhausted and getting home with just a fine endorphin glow. In fact, I'll tackle any route now, no matter how many black arrows on it, as the e-bike gives confidence you won't go phut miles from home.
Oh, and I still go out on 50% of my rides (the easier ones) on other bikes with no motor in them.
It's certainly not just 'sit up and beg' electric bikes with a push button that I've seen.