VADO 4 SL chain jumping off

[TerryField]

My VADO 4 SL has a 1x13 drivechain, and the chain has a habit of jumping off the front sprocket and jamming itself firmly between the sprocket and the frame. The only way to release it is to loosen the front sprocket spider - messy and rarely convenient!

I don't know why it does this; the rear derailleur changes quietly and smoothly, and I can only think that it happens if I am changing gear when the motor kicks in, but I cant be sure. Maybe in some way, as the chain is between cogs it momentarily jumps in response to the input of power which in turn causes it to slip off the front sprocket. Today it happened when I was on the 11th largest cog.

So any idea why it is doing this, and is there any gadget which I can attach to the frame to prevent the chain from jumping inside the socket?

Many thanks.

[UpWrong]

Maybe a dog-tooth chain-keeper?

[531colin]

If you ease off the pedals as you change gear, then the motor torque will also reduce, this might help?

What do Specialised say about the problem ?

I wouldn’t want to do anything too dramatic, I might try glueing “something “ to the motor housing where the chain engages with the top of the chainwheel just thick enough that the chain can’t come off the chainwheel; maybe a rim brake pad cut thinner?

[TerryField]

Not too keen to start adding stuff, I would rather know the cause of the problem.

SO, I took the bike back to the dealer ( large outlet with a big servicing dept). They could not replicate the issue and suggested that the chain had not been properly attached (!!!.)
They told me that e bike chains have to be properly fitted (I.e different to a normal chain) something I have never heard of.

Unfortunately I can test ride the bike until Monday, but I will be surprised - and delighted- if refitting the chain has solved the problem.

[531colin]

By “correctly fitting the chain” are they talking about the “ thick thin” chainwheel teeth?
I’ve never tried doing it the wrong way…..

[PT1029]

Some chains (10 speed +) are directional, you need to fit them the right way round for the indexing to work.
This might affect a chain coming into the chain wheel from a sharp angle (as 1st gear will be on a 13s system).
I

[ncutler]

I have one of these and the chainwheel has been changed under warranty.

Th spec calls for a 'narrow wide' chainwheel where wide teeth fit through the wide holes in the chain, and the narrow teeth the narrow holes. This allows the teeth to be longer, fit more tightly, and keeps hold of the chain better.

My Vado, along with others, was delivered with the wrong chainwheel, presumably due to supply problems. The 'wrong' one has all narrow teeth but they are splayed out sideways in opposite directions. Apparently this is good for MTB's as it helps clear mud etc, but does nothing to secure the chain.

The other thing that can cause chain jumping is a problem wih the derailleur clutch.

What sort of terrain are you riding on ? road, gravel, lumpy tracks ?

I also have a minor problem with the biggest sprocket on the rear running slightly out of true. So far it doesn't appear to matter but the shop are happy to change it if it causes problems. You might like to check yours.

[amoto65]

I changed the chainring on my Creo( same engine) for a raceface much better than the Praxis, by the way I didn't know a 13 speed set up was available on a Vado.

[ncutler]

I suspect that the '13' is a typo. My one has the Vado SL standard 1 x 11

How is the raceface ring better ? The standard chainring is 44T and I don't think Raceface go bigger than 38T

[amoto65]

I was going down from 46t to 38t but if you need larger than 38t there are plenty of other makes out there, Praxis have a bit of a reputation for dropping the chain on some forums.

[531colin]

My Vado chainwheel has "Wave technology" written on it, I guess its the wrong one? (be nice if Specialised had mentioned it!)

Bike is running perfectly with an old Stronglight 38T ring I had knocking about, which I guess was made for a triple. ( wanted the gears a bit lower)