Cycling UK Forum

Evening all

So Ive got my new Trek 2023 Émonda SL 5 in a stunning blue paintjob whilst i may eventually change out the wheels to begin with they are fine.

Was thinking though are some tyres more puncture resistant than others ?? (I'm assuming those it shipped with are super basic).
Would also like to go to the max recommended tyre size of 28mm (over the 26mm shipped).

Seems like the choice is endless ! Looking to ideally increase ride comfort a tad while still being able to maintain a fair clip.
Something worthwhile doing ?? Whats recommended.

ATB
Paul

My go to road tyre is the Open Pave 27mm from Vittoria but I am not sure if these are still available since the demise of Wiggle / CRC.

But, if not those, then something similar from vittoria with a 320tpi

Https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/ is your friend.
(Or your enemy if you are wont to disappear down rabbit holes).
Not surprisingly, the tension between comfort, speed, puncture resistance and price pulls the enthusiast in many directions at once.

For a road tyre which emphasises puncture resistance, I use the pirelli cinturato velo. It's robust without being crazy heavy, slow and inflexible.

As a general rule, current thinking is get as fat as your frame will allow - its more comfortable and there's no particular drop of in performance.

Apologies if this is a lot of egg-sucking instructions...

PaulK wrote: ↑18 Mar 2024, 6:31pm Was thinking though are some tyres more puncture resistant than others ?? (I'm assuming those it shipped with are super basic).
Would also like to go to the max recommended tyre size of 28mm (over the 26mm shipped).

It comes with Bontrager R1 tyres doesn't it? They're pretty decent. Wire bead rather than kevlar sure but they're certainly adequate. If they really were bargain basement tyres then yes, I'd switch them out but there's little point throwing brand new Bontragers in the bin. Just use them until they wear out. You may have decided by that point to get new wheels in which case it's the ideal time to get everything new together and maybe upgrade to tubeless as well.

There's no downside to using them while you get to know the bike and the weather is still quite "varied" with plenty of grit and mud washed onto the roads so I'd use them at least until there's proper summer weather and consistently dry roads worthy of some more race/speed orientated tyres.

rareposter wrote: ↑18 Mar 2024, 6:48pm

PaulK wrote: ↑18 Mar 2024, 6:31pm Was thinking though are some tyres more puncture resistant than others ?? (I'm assuming those it shipped with are super basic).
Would also like to go to the max recommended tyre size of 28mm (over the 26mm shipped).

It comes with Bontrager R1 tyres doesn't it? They're pretty decent. Wire bead rather than kevlar sure but they're certainly adequate. If they really were bargain basement tyres then yes, I'd switch them out but there's little point throwing brand new Bontragers in the bin. Just use them until they wear out. You may have decided by that point to get new wheels in which case it's the ideal time to get everything new together and maybe upgrade to tubeless as well.

There's no downside to using them while you get to know the bike and the weather is still quite "varied" with plenty of grit and mud washed onto the roads so I'd use them at least until there's proper summer weather and consistently dry roads worthy of some more race/speed orientated tyres.

Indeed will be using the stocks for a bit so th Pirelli Cinturato Velo TLR Tyre are a good thing ..?
These say tube-less but mine defiantly have tubes so perhaps wont fit

PaulK wrote: ↑18 Mar 2024, 6:55pm These say tube-less but mine defiantly have tubes so perhaps wont fit

New bikes almost never come set up tubeless - not unless you're buying or building custom. The reason is that a bike can sit in a warehouse or shop floor for a year or more before eventually being sold so tubeless would have dried out, gone off etc and plenty of customers aren't bothered about it anyway.

I'd just use the wheels and tyres you have for a few months.

When I bought my new road bike (15/16 months ago now), I just left the tubed wheels and tyres on there for about 6 months, did loads of riding and then found a set of carbon wheels on a really good deal so upgraded the lot in one go. Worked out really well.

rareposter wrote: ↑18 Mar 2024, 7:13pm

PaulK wrote: ↑18 Mar 2024, 6:55pm These say tube-less but mine defiantly have tubes so perhaps wont fit

New bikes almost never come set up tubeless - not unless you're buying or building custom. The reason is that a bike can sit in a warehouse or shop floor for a year or more before eventually being sold so tubeless would have dried out, gone off etc and plenty of customers aren't bothered about it anyway.

I'd just use the wheels and tyres you have for a few months.

When I bought my new road bike (15/16 months ago now), I just left the tubed wheels and tyres on there for about 6 months, did loads of riding and then found a set of carbon wheels on a really good deal so upgraded the lot in one go. Worked out really well.

Ha wheels are a whole other question !
Im sure i could pay as much as you like but i will cycle for fun to get outside and have annother hobby how much can i expect to pay ish...
Do cycling shops do the "Black Friday" sales sort of thing ..?

Treks usually come with Bontrager tyres. Whilst not the best, they are far from being the worst tyres. I ran Bontragers R1’s on my Domane until they wore out, my wife is still running an R1 on her winter bike as nothing much else will fit due to tight clearances.

If you want speed, Continental GP5000’s are a proven fast tyre with reasonable puncture protection. I’m currently running them on my summer bike. If you want a bit more puncture protection then Conti GP4Seasons, Gatorskins or Grand Prix GT. Vitoria tyres are cheaper and I’ve used Rubino Pro’s in the past with good results. Pirelli are newer to the cycle market but I’ve no experience of them.

oaklec wrote: ↑18 Mar 2024, 6:41pm My go to road tyre is the Open Pave 27mm from Vittoria but I am not sure if these are still available since the demise of Wiggle / CRC.

But, if not those, then something similar from vittoria with a 320tpi

Forget my suggestion, I've just looked at the vittoria website and they don't do anything remotely like the Open Pave any longer

Is the bike a higher spec model? Shame to spoil it, if it is, with some bits of hose pipe. Robust and nice to ride tend to be exclusive. Compromise or pick one.
New bikes are rarely set up tubeless but it may be possible if it floats your boat. Even my commuter is tubeless.

Hi All

No the stock wheels i will be using are tubed and are therefore run at a higher (Less comfortable + potentially more puncture prone) pressure..

I found a link to TREKs original specs
https://www.trekbikes.com/gb/en_GB/bike ... c/p/32560/

The wheels say Tubeless Ready so that must make them compatible.
But I am still super sketchy on which tyres are compatible for these rims.

Can anyone advise the tech language around tyres ... (Why isn't it just simple)
IE Hooked \ Hook-less \ Clincher etc etc and how do i tell what will work for my wheels. Sorry if I'm being super stupid..

The below would be my ideal choice if suitable.
The Continental GP5000 STR are tubeless ready however im totally unclear if they are suitable for my wheels..
https://www.merlincycles.com/continenta ... 40542.html

Cheers
P

Wheels tubeless ready, tyres tubeless ready…. No worries there!
Clincher means any tyre that stays on the rim because it’s got an inelastic “bead” … bead can be folding or wire.
The only other type of bike tyre is a “tubular” where an inner tube is sewn into the tyre, which is then stuck onto the rim…these are historic.
Hooked bead means the rim has a hook to retain the tyre bead at high pressure; that’s all modern clincher rims.
Hookless rims are historic, for old low pressure tyres with “Dunlop” valves…..you don’t need to know about!

PaulK wrote: ↑20 Mar 2024, 11:57pm Hi All

No the stock wheels i will be using are tubed and are therefore run at a higher (Less comfortable + potentially more puncture prone) pressure..

I found a link to TREKs original specs
https://www.trekbikes.com/gb/en_GB/bike ... c/p/32560/

The wheels say Tubeless Ready so that must make them compatible.
But I am still super sketchy on which tyres are compatible for these rims.

Can anyone advise the tech language around tyres ... (Why isn't it just simple)
IE Hooked \ Hook-less \ Clincher etc etc and how do i tell what will work for my wheels. Sorry if I'm being super stupid..

The below would be my ideal choice if suitable.
The Continental GP5000 STR are tubeless ready however im totally unclear if they are suitable for my wheels..
https://www.merlincycles.com/continenta ... 40542.html

Cheers
P

My son in law has the same bike. He runs GP5000s on it, but I think he’s upgraded the wheels to Hunt wheels.

To answer your questions, most rims are hooked - this means they have a small lip on the outer edge of the rim and the bead of the tyre sits under the hook, which stops the tyre blowing off the rim. Some manufacturers make hookless rims, e.g Zipp, Giant, these rims don’t have this lip and the tyre is held on by pressure against the side of the rim. These can’t be run at very high pressures ( no more that 70psi).

A clincher is an open tyre with a bead around each edge, which “clinches” the rim. Most bike tyres are like this, but some tyres are tubular with no opening and the inner tube sealed/sewn into the tyre (sometimes called Sew ups). These need special rims and the tyres need to be glued or stuck onto the rims using double sided tape.

Most road tyres from the major manufacturers will be compatible with your wheels, providing you get the right size - 700c and the width that’s compatible with your bike, probably up to 35mm but maybe more.

Folding/rigid refers to the bead. Folding tyres have a Kevlar bead which enables the tyre to be folded. Some tyres have a rigid steel bead which can’t be folded. This doesn’t really affect the tyres in day to day operation.

Having submitted it, I was a bit uneasy about dismissing hookless rims as historic!
The important bit is both the wheels and tyres the OP is interested in are tubeless ready.

531colin wrote: ↑21 Mar 2024, 8:18am Having submitted it, I was a bit uneasy about dismissing hookless rims as historic!
The important bit is both the wheels and tyres the OP is interested in are tubeless ready.

Hookless is back but not without controversy. Modern hookless seems to be all about making carbon rims easier (?cheaper) to manufacture with little benefit in terms of function or safety for the cyclist. There are limits on pressure and rim-tyre size combinations to help ensure the tyre stays on the rim.
https://road.cc/content/tech-news/zipp- ... cle-307385