Headset bearing size

[Wide_Mouth_Frog]

Hello! New poster here.
Does anyone know what size bearing I need for a cube peleton 2010? I've tried Google, but no joy.

Thanks!

[Keezx]

Either top and bottom 11/8" Cane Creek specification or top 11/8"and bottom 11/2" dito.
Take it apart and be sure.

Edit: most likely you need only the bottom bearing....

[Brucey]

....Take it apart and be sure.......

yes indeed; there should be numbers marked on the old bearings which will help you identify them, and if not you will have to get a measuring stick out. Headset bearing are defined by ID,OD, and seating angles. Various different manufacturers have succeeded in using bearings that are almost the same size as those used elsewhere but are in fact entirely incompatible. Buying headset bearings is a proper bloody nightmare, no mistake

If your extant headset bearings are a bit notchy, it is usually possible to rebuild them (for peanuts) as full-complement bearings which are much stronger and should last a lot longer too. If you want to know how to convert them to DFC spec, look out my post in the 'cheap bearings' thread; all you may need is a dremel tool and a packet of balls. With headset bearings, it is probably best if you use the SG method to almost entirely remove any upper lip from the inner race of the lower bearing, before rebuilding as full-complement. If you do it this way, you don't have to do anything to the outer race at all. You will have to make a wooden fixture to mount the inner race on, but this conversion will make it much easier to dismantle the bearing in future, much like a traditional headset in fact.

[Cyckelgalen]

Timely thread. I was servicing my headset this very morning and a ball popped out of one cage, never to be found again.

I had thought of converting to full complement bearings for the very simple reason that all replacement bearing cages that I can find are fitted with 5/32 balls, and the ones in my headset are 1/8. That is about 0.7 mm smaller diameter. The steerer tube is 1 1/8, but strangely enough, the print on the plastic seal reads VP Modus 25.4x45º.

Full complement bearings will be more durable no doubt, but I just fear it'll be a lot more faff to fit and service, particularly the lower race. Would standard cage with 5/32 bearings be in just one of the races? Is it correct that the right number of bearings, if converting to full complement, is as many as you can pack tightly in minus one?

[Brucey]

Full complement bearings will be more durable no doubt, but I just fear it'll be a lot more faff to fit and service

If you are converting a traditional headset (rather than converting a cartridge bearing) you need to leave a tiny gap. I have often used trial and error for this.

FWIW if converting a cartridge bearing depending on exactly how it is done, it is usually possible to make the revised bearing so it snaps together, allowing it to be treated much like any other cartridge bearing. In this case, a FC bearing is no extra trouble to install or service. If converting a standard headset, it is usual that the increase in service life more than makes up for any small increase fiddlyness there might be during servicing. The only reason clipped bearings are ever used in bicycles is that this way, it is a touch quicker to throw a bike together. They are markedly inferior in every other respect.

[gxaustin]

Hello! New poster here.
Does anyone know what size bearing I need for a cube peleton 2010? I've tried Google, but no joy.

Thanks!

You could extract the bearing and take it to your LBS?

[edocaster]

Timely thread. I was servicing my headset this very morning and a ball popped out of one cage, never to be found again.

I had thought of converting to full complement bearings for the very simple reason that all replacement bearing cages that I can find are fitted with 5/32 balls, and the ones in my headset are 1/8. That is about 0.7 mm smaller diameter. The steerer tube is 1 1/8, but strangely enough, the print on the plastic seal reads VP Modus 25.4x45º.

Full complement bearings will be more durable no doubt, but I just fear it'll be a lot more faff to fit and service, particularly the lower race. Would standard cage with 5/32 bearings be in just one of the races? Is it correct that the right number of bearings, if converting to full complement, is as many as you can pack tightly in minus one?

I found the same VP Modus 25.4x45º in a Van Rysel (Decathlon) frame, and I understand it is used in a number of their other bikes too.

I also had the same problem of balls coming out of their cage on the bottom bearing. Likely because the pressure of the fork crown race widens the cage.

Hunting down replacements is difficult, but I've found this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404970175133 - if solely judging by the pictures, it has 25 balls in each cage. When it arrives I'll check if the size is right.

[Brucey]

if you have taken the trouble of dismantling a headset, putting a clip back in ought to be the furthest thing from your mind.

[Cyckelgalen]

Exactly, I never bothered with any replacement cage, partly because this VP headset has 1/8 balls, which seems to be rare compared to the ubiquitous 5/32 ball size. Decathlon sell 5/32 cages as a spare, but no 1/8's.
Instead, I sourced loose 1/8 bearings for a few quid (100 grade), discarded the clip and converted to full complement. IIRC some 40 to 50 balls are needed. I replaced them only in the lower bearing, that carries all the weight and will benefit from having more balls sharing the load.

[edocaster]

As it happens, I'm now in exactly the same position, and have ordered 1/8" loose balls.

I did actually order the headset I linked on eBay, and it did indeed come with identical cages as were in the VP Modus - 25 1/8" balls. The rest of the headset was quite different to the one in the Van Rysel though, so no use for spares.

But after installing the cage, the were some slight scratching sounds, like the cage was making contact with the cup. So I'll now try and just use loose balls.

Cyckelgalen - are you saying the lower bearing could be 40 to 50 balls instead of the 25 originally?

[rjb]

But after installing the cage, the were some slight scratching sounds, like the cage was making contact with the cup.

This usually happens if the cage is upside down or distorted.

[Cyckelgalen]

Yes, you need more balls to go around the race once you remove the cage. If the last one fits in snugly, you can leave it out, otherwise than that, fit in as many as you can.
The caged bearings you ordered should be fine, however, as already mentioned, you must have put it upside-down.

[edocaster]

Yes, I did think the cage could be the wrong way around, but looked again for at least one side. The cage is on the 'inside' of the bearing so is placed on the cup side. The other way around would collide with the cone. In any case, these bearings are very small, so I imagine any imperfections might lead to the cage touching something.

I'll check the other bearing before replacing with new balls when they arrive, but I'm pretty certain it was also right.

Maybe I'm expecting unrealistic smoothness, or things improve with weight such as a wheel and bars attached.

[Brucey]

But after installing the cage, the were some slight scratching sounds, like the cage was making contact with the cup.

This usually happens if the cage is upside down or distorted.

such noises can also be made by unintentional contact of other things, failing plating, or lubricant contamination. FWIW headsets are invariably improved by fitting (more) loose balls. If you can measure the clip accurately, a little trigonometry will tell you exactly how many balls will fit.

[Cyckelgalen]

Hi Edocaster. You are nor expecting unrealistic smoothness, it has to run smooth. It is very easy to check if the cage is fine or properly positioned, just put the cage in place, then the upper race and turn it with your hand, no need to install the fork. If it is nor smooth, then you flip the cage upside down and test again. It will go smooth if it is well positioned.
Upper and lower bearings are identical in this headset. If you decide to convert to full complement (that is more balls and no cage) one of the bearings while keeping the cage in the other one, convert the lower bearing, the one that bears the load.

By the way, anyone knows what bearing grade is adequate for the replacement balls? Grade 100 are cheap and easy to get. Grade 10 may be overkill for this application.