Pedal assist on recumbent trikes

[UpWrong]

... The Air Pro looks great but the Ergo-flow is probably more practical. I've had the latter before and still have the throwover side-pods to fit. The Tour is shorter in length too and a 26" wheel is more robust. So my heart says X but my head says X Tour. I'm conflicted

I find the AirPro seat excellent, though never been on a "slung" seat so I can't compare (but despite to cost of the AirPro if buying again I'd definitely still go for the AirPro).

Note that the Sprint X Tour with AirPro is a bit longer than the Sprint X Tour with standard "slung" seat. The AirPro makes the frame setting a bit longer (though you can adjust the frame to swap seat type, though that also means new chain and ideally new tubes).

Ian.

I've had an ErgoFlow seat before and it's fine. but the lowest angle is 37 degrees. Need to be lower for better aerodynamics. The AirPro seat adds £500 to the cost of a build.

[UpWrong]

I've just stepped through a build of a Sprint X Tour full suspension with the cheapest gearing, which is what I'd get for an e-conversion. With the ErgoFlow seat it comes to £4845 including a rear rack and the (free) on the road pack. Sounds better as long as you don't think of it as 5 grand.

[Psamathe]

Whilst I've no experience of front suspension, when I chose my configuration after talking to others and several retailers I decided against front suspension and went for rear only. I'd make the same choice again today.

I do have the rear suspension set fairly firm for local day rides but laden touring I go for more suspension setting (which is actually firmer suspension but after the extra load net effect is softer).

Ian

[Psamathe]

I've just stepped through a build of a Sprint X Tour full suspension with the cheapest gearing, which is what I'd get for an e-conversion. With the ErgoFlow seat it comes to £4845 including a rear rack and the (free) on the road pack. Sounds better as long as you don't think of it as 5 grand. :shock:

Even for day rides I use a set of Radical banana racer panniers (few tools, puncture repair, 2 x inner tubes (20" & 26"), sweater, etc.

You used to be able to het them from ICE but depending on what you carry you might also want the waterproof liners (as the banana pannier seams & zips are not waterproof) and they are only from Radical when you are into minimum order value ...

Or you might already have all that stuff from you existing recumbents.

When I go touring (laden camping) these days I use the Radical banana racer panniers and a standard Zortlied back rollers. But I also fit the upper rack section (an additional extra?) for improved support and the option (never used) to put stuff on top if needed. For day rides at home top section removed and just lower rack left on (which is not essily removable).

Ian

[Psamathe]

Other thought on config is a proper parking brake is worthwhile if you haven't included it. Velcro strap round a front brake not good.

Ian

[deejayen]

Whilst I've no experience of front suspension, when I chose my configuration after talking to others and several retailers I decided against front suspension and went for rear only. I'd make the same choice again today.
Ian

What sort of tyres do you have on the front, Ian, and do you not find the non-suspended front wheels transmit a lot of vibrations to your feet when riding on rough roads? I remember my Windcheetah being bad in that regard, and thought that front suspension might be worth having. However, the Windcheetah would have had narrower tyres at higher pressure than many current trikes, so perhaps it's not an issue.

[UpWrong]

Other thought on config is a proper parking brake is worthwhile if you haven't included it. Velcro strap round a front brake not good.

Ian

Yes, I included a parking brake in the configuration thanks. My guess is that front suspension is a good idea when maintaining 15.5 mph on rural roads for long periods at a time.

[Psamathe]

Whilst I've no experience of front suspension, when I chose my configuration after talking to others and several retailers I decided against front suspension and went for rear only. I'd make the same choice again today.
Ian

What sort of tyres do you have on the front, Ian, and do you not find the non-suspended front wheels transmit a lot of vibrations to your feet when riding on rough roads? I remember my Windcheetah being bad in that regard, and thought that front suspension might be worth having. However, the Windcheetah would have had narrower tyres at higher pressure than many current trikes, so perhaps it's not an issue.

Marathon Plus all round, normally at 4 bar. Never noticed any vibration being transmitted to my feet. We have some pretty rubbish roads round me, quite a few with "failed" surface dressing (where patches have peeled off) and I vuess those would be most likely to cause a vibration.

I should emphasise I have no experience of front suspension for comparison.

Ian

[deejayen]

Thanks, Ian. That's helpful to know.

[hercule]

I fitted front suspension to my 2006 QNT some time around 2012 I think. Previously I was using Big Apples to take the edge off the vibration. My thought was that it would absorb vibration but allow me to run narrower, faster tyres - which it has done. I’ve also got a Streamer fairing and thought it would make it a bit less likely to crack. Well, it’s still in one piece!

[UpWrong]

The RANS has gone, so contemplating an eTrike again. I see ICE now offer their trikes with the EP6 motor which is £600 less than the EP8 but is supplied with the same 630Wh battery. It's the same motor apparently with different programming. The 1x11 gearing with an 11-45 cassette gives a good range, around 25" to 100".

EDIT: For a Sprint X Tour FS, my configuraton with Steps, rack and lights is £7873. Omitting Steps and lights it comes to £4812. So still over £3000 difference. Would the Steps system feel that much nicer than a rear hub motor with a cadence sensor?

[plevyadophy]

The RANS has gone, so contemplating an eTrike again. I see ICE now offer their trikes with the EP6 motor which is £600 less than the EP8 but is supplied with the same 630Wh battery. It's the same motor apparently with different programming. The 1x11 gearing with an 11-45 cassette gives a good range, around 25" to 100".

EDIT: For a Sprint X Tour FS, my configuraton with Steps, rack and lights is £7873. Omitting Steps and lights it comes to £4812. So still over £3000 difference. Would the Steps system feel that much nicer than a rear hub motor with a cadence sensor?

A middrive/bottom bracket motor will pretty much always feel better than a hub motor with just a cadence sensor but by far the worst feeling, in my experience, comes from front wheel motors.

Do, in order of most natural feel;

1. Middrive
2. Rear drive
3. Front drive

With front and rear wheel motors you'd be well advised to fit a torque arm.

As you're considering an ICE tadpole trike, the only choice for you would be between rear or mid drive.

In the event of your chain snapping, you can still ride home with the rear drive but with a middrive motor you're doomed (either walk, get picked up, call a recovery truck or fix the chain).

[UpWrong]

The RANS has gone, so contemplating an eTrike again. I see ICE now offer their trikes with the EP6 motor which is £600 less than the EP8 but is supplied with the same 630Wh battery. It's the same motor apparently with different programming. The 1x11 gearing with an 11-45 cassette gives a good range, around 25" to 100".

EDIT: For a Sprint X Tour FS, my configuraton with Steps, rack and lights is £7873. Omitting Steps and lights it comes to £4812. So still over £3000 difference. Would the Steps system feel that much nicer than a rear hub motor with a cadence sensor?

A middrive/bottom bracket motor will pretty much always feel better than a hub motor with just a cadence sensor but by far the worst feeling, in my experience, comes from front wheel motors.

Do, in order of most natural feel;

1. Middrive
2. Rear drive
3. Front drive

With front and rear wheel motors you'd be well advised to fit a torque arm.

As you're considering an ICE tadpole trike, the only choice for you would be between rear or mid drive.

In the event of your chain snapping, you can still ride home with the rear drive but with a middrive motor you're doomed (either walk, get picked up, call a recovery truck or fix the chain).

I think I've decided to pull the trigger on an acoustic ICE full suspension trike for now, and to add a rear hub motor later. A 2 -year warranty on something as complicated as Shimano STEPS puts me off. The EP8 is a lovely bit of kit but pricey.

[hercule]

I’ve been eyeing up a Boost rear hub motor for my Trice QNT. Doesn’t come in a 20” rear wheel but as I would have to re-dish it anyway building it up from a bare hub is not an issue. As it’s originally for a 700c/26” wheel I’m not sure how it would perform in a a smaller rim. I could of course put it on the VTX but I want to keep that as pure as the driven snow

Boost recently emailed me to say they have upgraded to a bigger battery for no extra cost (at least initially)

[UpWrong]

I’ve been eyeing up a Boost rear hub motor for my Trice QNT. Doesn’t come in a 20” rear wheel but as I would have to re-dish it anyway building it up from a bare hub is not an issue. As it’s originally for a 700c/26” wheel I’m not sure how it would perform in a a smaller rim. I could of course put it on the VTX but I want to keep that as pure as the driven snow

Boost recently emailed me to say they have upgraded to a bigger battery for no extra cost (at least initially)

The Boost hub motor looks remarkably similar to the Geeko hub motor. I'd be interested to know if the interflange distance of the boost is the same 41.5mm as the Geeko.