Tight crank bolts.
- Vetus Ossa
- Posts: 1695
- Joined: 22 Oct 2012, 7:32pm
- Location: Plymouth
Tight crank bolts.
I’ve bought a cheap bike to put on my turbo trainer, to use while recovering from cataract operations.
I bought from a schoolboy who had obviously neglected any sort of maintenance on it.
I have managed to put right most of the things wrong with it, but the bottom bracket is a bit noisy so would like to replace it. Of course I have removed tight crank bolts before, but I just can’t budge the bolt on the drive side, not tried the other one yet.
The freewheel is stuck fast too, can’t budge it.
I have laid the bike on its side and filled the threaded bit on the crank with penetrating oil without any luck.
Any ideas forum members?
I bought from a schoolboy who had obviously neglected any sort of maintenance on it.
I have managed to put right most of the things wrong with it, but the bottom bracket is a bit noisy so would like to replace it. Of course I have removed tight crank bolts before, but I just can’t budge the bolt on the drive side, not tried the other one yet.
The freewheel is stuck fast too, can’t budge it.
I have laid the bike on its side and filled the threaded bit on the crank with penetrating oil without any luck.
Any ideas forum members?
Beauty will save the world.
-
rareposter
- Posts: 3078
- Joined: 27 Aug 2014, 2:40pm
Re: Tight crank bolts.
What tool are you using? How good is the fit?
And are you certain that you're turning it the right way?
Jonathan
And are you certain that you're turning it the right way?
Jonathan
- Vetus Ossa
- Posts: 1695
- Joined: 22 Oct 2012, 7:32pm
- Location: Plymouth
Re: Tight crank bolts.
Fair questions.
I have been tinkering with bikes for a long time, I am using the right tool and turning it the correct way.
I would put an extension bar on the end of the spanner, but should the bolt snap off, it would complicate removal a little.
Beauty will save the world.
- Vetus Ossa
- Posts: 1695
- Joined: 22 Oct 2012, 7:32pm
- Location: Plymouth
Re: Tight crank bolts.
Worth a try I suppose.rareposter wrote: ↑7 Jun 2024, 6:24pm This idea might be worth trying...
https://escapecollective.com/removing-a ... s-it-work/
Have tried standing on the spanner, with the pedal supported on a brick, and of course clouting the spanner with a hammer, oh yes I have…it’s blinking tight.
Beauty will save the world.
Re: Tight crank bolts.
A photo may help. Is it a nut on a threaded axle, Allen bolt, or 14mm bolt.? 
Peugeot 531 pro, Dawes Discovery Tandem, Dawes Kingpin X2, Raleigh 20 stowaway X2, 1965 Moulton deluxe, Falcon K2 MTB dropped bar tourer, Rudge Bi frame folder, Longstaff trike conversion on a Giant XTC 840, Giant Bowery, Apollo transition. 
- Vetus Ossa
- Posts: 1695
- Joined: 22 Oct 2012, 7:32pm
- Location: Plymouth
- Vetus Ossa
- Posts: 1695
- Joined: 22 Oct 2012, 7:32pm
- Location: Plymouth
Re: Tight crank bolts.
I have trapped an Allen Key/Ring Spanner/dedicated socket in a bench vice and used the frame as a lever with a sticky crank bolt before now.
- Vetus Ossa
- Posts: 1695
- Joined: 22 Oct 2012, 7:32pm
- Location: Plymouth
Re: Tight crank bolts.
Using a (firmly mounted) vice is a good option, and you are lucky having 14mm hex headed bolts.
If you had 8mm allen socket bolts the vice might be less useful. I once had some stuck pedals (not mine, I suspect they had been fitted (6 months previous) with little or no grease), the pedals only had allen sockets, no 15mm spanner flats. The pedals would not budge, so I put an 8mm allen key in the vice, try as I might, the allen key was just too springy to get enough sudden torque or shock to loosen the pedal, and that was with mounting the allen key in the vice at the L bend with the short section sticking up. The cranks were Campag, I think carbon, so heating wasn't on the cards.
If you had 8mm allen socket bolts the vice might be less useful. I once had some stuck pedals (not mine, I suspect they had been fitted (6 months previous) with little or no grease), the pedals only had allen sockets, no 15mm spanner flats. The pedals would not budge, so I put an 8mm allen key in the vice, try as I might, the allen key was just too springy to get enough sudden torque or shock to loosen the pedal, and that was with mounting the allen key in the vice at the L bend with the short section sticking up. The cranks were Campag, I think carbon, so heating wasn't on the cards.
Re: Tight crank bolts.
Bit of heat may help. Put a socket in place over the bolt head. Wrap a rag over the crank head and pour boiling water on it then try removing the bolt.
Stout gloves also protect your knuckles.

If you position a wooden lever between the crank and ratchet it may give you sufficiently increased leverage. Only issue is holding everything together. Toe strap may be useful here. Good luck.
Stout gloves also protect your knuckles.
If you position a wooden lever between the crank and ratchet it may give you sufficiently increased leverage. Only issue is holding everything together. Toe strap may be useful here. Good luck.
Peugeot 531 pro, Dawes Discovery Tandem, Dawes Kingpin X2, Raleigh 20 stowaway X2, 1965 Moulton deluxe, Falcon K2 MTB dropped bar tourer, Rudge Bi frame folder, Longstaff trike conversion on a Giant XTC 840, Giant Bowery, Apollo transition. 
- Vetus Ossa
- Posts: 1695
- Joined: 22 Oct 2012, 7:32pm
- Location: Plymouth
Re: Tight crank bolts.
Tried the freewheel remover in the vice this morning, didn't budge.
Currently have the wheel, freewheel side up over a bucket, soaking in GT85.
Heat next, though i know heat is probably the best way go, it' bit messy.
Currently have the wheel, freewheel side up over a bucket, soaking in GT85.
Heat next, though i know heat is probably the best way go, it' bit messy.
Beauty will save the world.
Re: Tight crank bolts.
I'd use a penetrating fluid rather than GT85 (or WD-40).Vetus Ossa wrote: ↑8 Jun 2024, 9:12am ...
Currently have the wheel, freewheel side up over a bucket, soaking in GT85.
...
Jonathan