Specialized Vado SL4 and Club Runs

[LittleGreyCat]

I am now torn between an obviously good bike and flexibility.

Personally I made a conscious decision to only buy e-bikes with removable batteries. My first a 'lightweight' Boardman flat bar HYB 8.9E (not too dissimilar to the Vado?) - to which I also bought a spare battery - and that main reason was, if I required it, I could carry said spare battery in my saddlebag for extended range, although I've not done so because of not exceeding the up to 50 miles I've achieved with one battery yet. The 250W battery being much lighter than Bosch motored e-bike types. Also although my bikes are kept downstairs in a stone shed with electrics, I prefer to remove and charge the batteries upstairs under supervision. Just a personal thing.

The main issue will be when we are away in the motor home.
Ideally I would like to be able to bring the battery inside to charge overnight instead of charging on the bike outside.
The motor home does not have a garage (although many do) so the bike would have to be locked securely to the MH and possibly open to the elements.

I know nothing of motor homes and their power systems, so please excuse me asking, but I'm curious to know how would you charge an e-bike battery overnight in a camper van? Do the vans have large enough back up batteries themselves?

I would have considered the Specialized Vado myself, if not for my personal preference for battery removal. And of course plenty of satisfied owners and users live happily without the need to remove said batteries.

ps personally I do tend to overthink things and imagine problems that don't always occur

Ah, motor homes and power.
Depending on your personal inclination, some/many motor home and camper van users park for the night on campsites which have an electric hook up [EHU] giving 240V.
This allows the use of 240V mains chargers etc.
Our motor home has two habitation batteries and a solar panel, and so could support a 240V charger via an inverter, also the motor home will charge the habitation batteries when you are driving (although perhaps not at a massive rate).

The outstanding issue is getting the power (12V or 240V or 36/48V depending on the solution) from inside the van to the bike which is outside locked to the bike rack.
In a safe and weatherproof manner.

[David Cox]

Quick update alas the Vado and its Hiplock got stolen from my garage yesterday night.

[LittleGreyCat]

Sorry to hear that.
Can you replace it?

[David Cox]

Yes thanks it was insured and the same bike is still available with same discount and spec. Hoping it will cover the accessories that I'd just fitted bar ends, rack bag, Brooks saddle and rather expensive angle grinder resistant lock !! Will have to upgrade home security in case they come back.

[LittleGreyCat]

I've now managed a 22 mile ride (small hills only) and am generally well pleased.
Odometer showed 32 miles (includes short rides), battery charge 51%.

My main niggle is that everything seems to be tailored to Specialized kit, unlike every other bike I have owned.

I fitted a spare bottle cage then set about fitting a pair of Zefal Dooback 2 bar end mirrors.
Every other bike, I have cut the end out of the hand grip and then fitted the mirror.
Oh no, these aren't any ordinary bar hand grips.
These are Specialized hand grips!
There is some kind of moulding (I assume plastic) under the ends of the grips.

Now I like the palm rests on the grips as it makes the riding position a bit easier on the longer ride.
However I feel exposed without a rear view mirror.
[Difficulty in twisting to look back.]

I now have to decide between major surgery on the hand grips, or replacing them.
If I replace them I am then looking at bar ends to improve the hand position.
Ah, well.

[rareposter]

Every other bike, I have cut the end out of the hand grip and then fitted the mirror.
Oh no, these aren't any ordinary bar hand grips.
These are Specialized hand grips!
There is some kind of moulding (I assume plastic) under the ends of the grips.

That's pretty standard now on grips for flat bars - partly because bar ends are a bit out of fashion but partly a safety thing because if the end of the grip is worn / scuffed away, the exposed edge of the bar can turn into a sort of "apple corer" type opening and if you fall onto it, it'll remove a chunk from whichever bit of your anatomy it happens to contact.

There's a rule in cycle racing that you cannot have exposed bar ends and some grips (like on BMX bikes) are quite flared and extra soft at the edges specifically for extra safety and to avoid you (or other riders) being gouged.

[LittleGreyCat]

Well, I've got the fancy grips.
Ergon GP2.
Very nice too.

The only problem is the power switch on the LHS bars is outboard of the brake lever.
Has anyone tried moving this?
Ideally I would like it to be inboards of the brake lever to maintain the placement of the brake lever with regards to the grips.
However (apart from having trouble getting the correct hex key size) I have no idea if this will cause issues with the wiring.

Nothing is easy!

[531colin]

IMG_5859 by 531colin, on Flickr

2mm Allen key turns the tiny grub screw which fixes the thing to the handlebar. Fit isn't great, but then you don't need to torque it up like a lunatic. Some stuff made in the USA uses imperial size Allen keys (or used to), but I doubt any bits of this bike are USA made.
As in photo, there is plenty of wire lurking in the frame to fit the thing to a bar end fixed to my bullbars.
Can't get much easier than that, Shirley?

[David Cox]

I did the surgery on both my Vados' right grips to fit a Busch and Miller mirror. Did fit Ergon grips with a bar end to the stolen one but they had a strong fitting to anchor the bar end which made slipping a mirror bracket in difficult. I was going to fit a simple Zefal mirror on the end. Never got to try them on the road hope the thief is getting to grips with it !! I've settled for the standard grips and BandM again for now. Like you I wouldn't ride without a mirror, Glad you are enjoying the bike.

[ncutler]

For whatever it's worth here is my one:

The bar has about 50mm sawn off each end, width now approx 600mm. The bar ends are from Decathlon: not expensive and very easily adjustable. The stem has been changed to a Redshift elastomer one with a bit of give: seriously helps with the rather harsh forks on our terrible local road surface. Changing the stem meant losing the built-in bracket for the front light, so a happy hour designing and printing a 3D bracket that replaces one of the spacers on the steerer - also improves the light as it is no longer hiding behind gear and brake lines.

As for the switch for the motor: it can easily be relocated inboard of the brake lever, but I am very happy with it where it is. I don't notice any difference between the rear and front brakes ( could be a near-geriatric discrimination failure ! ) and having the motor switch very easily accessible is essential. I get the impression that some electric bikes assume that a rider will set the motor support in one position and leave it there. I find I use the three power levels ( and power off ) all the time, much as I would a front changer.

So far, after very nearly 1,000 miles, I'm extremely happy with the Vado. Last October I was getting serious knee and thigh pain from riding the Hewitt up our local hills and worried that I was doing permanent damage to my knee. The Vado takes the strain out of the 'ups' but still encourages plenty of riding without electricity. The knee has responded happily to regular 'gentle' cycling and is now painless, the waist is reduced, and it's done exactly what I wanted.

The only downside is that the shop I bought it from appears to have a rather disengaged approach to setting up a bicycle properly before delivery: there is an ongoing conversation about this; I'll post details when ( if? ) it's finally resolved.

[LittleGreyCat]

Thanks to all.

I have currently replaced the RHS grip and am making sure that it works as hoped before attacking the LHS.

Struggling a bit with getting at the underside of the bars, due to hand issues.

I hope an updated Lidl bike stand will make this easier.

[David Cox]

Very impressed with that digital printing !! I agree the ride can be a bit harsh and that's an interesting modification. Bar ends look good and standard bars are very wide unless you are coming from an MTB. Agree that the power control it feels very natural just like using a front changer you can tailor the power output to suit gradient and strain on legs breathing etc and often don't need to change gear. I also have an electric Brompton bought for commuting and just stick that in 2nd level power it's a bit hard to reach the control and you have to go through the 1,2,3,0 sequence or use an App.

[LittleGreyCat]

<snip>
There is now tolerable clearance for Schwalbe 700 x 40 G one allround tyres, run tubeless on the original wheels at 30/45 psi which are more comfortable than the original tyres and suitable for mixed road and tracks.

I've geared it down a bit with an ordinary Stronglight 38T ring which was knocking about.
<snip>

(1) I have found the tyres fine on road and firm bridle ways but absolutely hopeless on forest tracks, especially soft sand. I am planning on changing them but not sure if tubeless is the way for me. Far too modern technology.

(2) I assume that your gearing down may confuse the speed limiter? Again I assume that the "intelligence" knows which gear you are in and knows your crank revolutions and calculates the speed, so a smaller front ring may make it think you are going faster than you are. Not that cutting power at 15 mph against 15.5 mph (for example) is likely to make much difference.

[531colin]

There’s a magnet on the lock ring for the rear disc, and a sensor in the left chainstay which I guess counts wheel revolutions for speed ?
I may get power fractionally above 25 kph with my 40mm tyres!