Bike recommendation for commute to work...

[Geoff_F]

I live exactly 4 miles from my workplace and have had to walk it once or twice, it takes me an hour on foot.
These days, on my bike (especially when it's raining) I can do it in 10 minutes, this is about the same amount of time it used to take by car.

To the op I would work out where you will be doing the majority of your riding, either on or off road, and then get the most suitable bike, either hybrid or mountain/gravel.
New or used is up to you but stick with name brand, Specialized, Giant, etc. Carrera have some good models and are readily available.
Ebike is nice to have but not necessary, you should be able to do 2.5 miles easily the aching legs stop after a few weeks...

Average of 24 mph? Really?

[Dazzathedrummer]

Thanks for all the replies - some really useful information there.

You've convinced me that I don't need an Ebike! ...especially as it looks like I can get something good for less than £500.

Style wise, I'd prefer a mountain bike I think as some of the optional routes to work and potential lunchtime rides involve gravel, mud paths and woodland routes I'm happy to add mud guards etc.

Bikes that have caught my eye so far...

Rockrider ST540
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/27-5-moun ... R-p-301097
Some of the negative reviews mentions dodgy parts - leaky brake handles

Carrera Vulcan
https://www.halfords.com/bikes/mountain ... 47014.html
Most of the negative reviews seem to be purely down to set-up issues - this doesn't bother me.

So, the theme here seems to be...

• Mountain bike

• <= £500

• Decent Shimano 2x gearset

• Front suspension

• Hydraulic disc brakes

Any other suggestions along those lines would be great - or feel free to talk me into something else

[Jdsk]

Thanks for that summary.

I wouldn't have front suspension on a bike used like that and costing ≤ £500.

Jonathan

[Brucey]

.... I suppose what I’m saying is that riding a bike has the potential to be huge fun, and for many people that’s what keeps them doing it.

isn't that just an excuse for getting more bikes?

[Brik]

Really?

Only when it's wet and cold and I really have to get home to the Mrs.

[The Path Racer]

Thanks for that summary.

I wouldn't have front suspension on a bike used like that and costing ≤ £500.

Jonathan

Me neither but it might depend on how lumpy those gravel/woodland trails are. I have a 90's rigid mtb and the 2" tyres alone certainly up the comfort level on my local lumpy canal towpath.
Mudguards is a must.

[Dazzathedrummer]

Thanks for that summary.

I wouldn't have front suspension on a bike used like that and costing ≤ £500.

Jonathan

Me neither…

I’ve listed suspension purely as I’ve not found a mountain bike at that level that hasn’t got front suspension.

[cycle tramp]

At this point, I don't care how many people tell me they can only walk at 3 mph... its down to technique...
..if you walk swinging your thighs forward and bending your knees to put one foot down about a foot or so it front of the other, then you might want to try this..
Rather than lift your entire leg, attempt to swing your ankle forward from the knee down - so you're only swining your shin and foot forward... then place your foot down, but only so it lands half its length in front of the other... then repeat with the other foot.... more foot falls, but less time required to move your legs...
Try it next time you're our for a walk... see if you're not any faster...

[PH]

Style wise, I'd prefer a mountain bike I think as some of the optional routes to work and potential lunchtime rides involve gravel, mud paths and woodland routes I'm happy to add mud guards etc.

Practical and stylish are not always compatible. Add full guards (I wouldn't bother with any other sort), a rack, lights, lock, maybe some reflective and what looked stylish in the shop ends up looking like what it is - A practical way to get around. I'd want a frame with proper fittings for guards and rack, bodged ones look even less stylish. I wouldn't get hung up about hydraulic brakes, I prefer them, but they're not an essential (Or, you can upgrade to Shimano ones for £50 at a later date). I wouldn't consider a sus fork necessary. If the bike comes with very off-road tyres I'd budget for some mixed use ones.
However I think the suggestions you've already had, the Halfords Subway and the Evans Lithium, would be better commuter bikes. I was looking at a Calibre in Go Outdoors a while back that looked in a similar vain, I think this one:
https://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/16245367/c ... e-16245367
The Kona Dew is another that's built up a reputation as a good commuter, I know someone happy with the cheapest model, though I still think the chain store own brands can offer better value.
None of it really matters compared to getting any bike and doing it. I went through three bikes in four years working out what best suited me. Seems wasteful except in the same period I'd have spent over £2,500 on other transport if I hadn't been cycling.

[Geoff_F]

At this point, I don't care how many people tell me they can only walk at 3 mph... its down to technique...
..if you walk swinging your thighs forward and bending your knees to put one foot down about a foot or so it front of the other, then you might want to try this..
Rather than lift your entire leg, attempt to swing your ankle forward from the knee down - so your only shining your shin and foot forward... then place your foot down, but only so it lands half its length in front of the other... then repeat with the other foot.... more foot falls, but less time required to move your legs...
Try it next time you're our for a walk... see if you're not any faster...

No one has told you they can only walk at 3 mph only that it is an average walking speed. I often go for a brisk walk for half an hour (two miles) and it is very unusual for anyone to be walking at my pace.

[Brucey]

FWW I used to take my Pashley (chaincase and all) and my Gazelle (ditto) down bridepaths. Of the two, the Pashley was probably the better, because it was fitted with a sprung Brooks saddle. Both had drum brakes, and both were just fine.

[Carlton green]

Thanks for that summary.

I wouldn't have front suspension on a bike used like that and costing ≤ £500.

Jonathan

Me neither…

I’ve listed suspension purely as I’ve not found a mountain bike at that level that hasn’t got front suspension.

IMHO mountain bikes are meant for a type of riding that you won’t be doing (… waste of money and they’re harder work too). As in my previous post an ordinary bike with suitable tyres will take you anywhere that you want to go. Suspension adds cost and complexity, imho it rarely adds value and folk have and do manage very well without it.

[slowster]

The OP will hopefully be back to tell us, but I’m pretty sure s/he mentioned wanting to use the bike for a bit of exercise beyond basic utility, and about riding it off-road.

My personal take is that having a “sit up and beg treader” does indeed cover many utility needs, but isn’t much cop off-road, and is about as much fun as cold porridge when it comes to exercising in an even mildly sporty fashion - I suppose what I’m saying is that riding a bike has the potential to be huge fun, and for many people that’s what keeps them doing it.

It's true that bikes fitted with traditional full chaincases of the type made typically by Dutch manufacturers like Gazelle and Batavus tend to be heavy and are not suited to more 'spirited' riding. However, it is not entirely binary, especially for someone like the OP who is prepared to do a bit of work to get something that better suits their needs.

Firstly, most hub geared (and singlespeed) bikes can be fitted with the Hebie Chainglider, which gives most of the benefit of a traditional full chaincase, while being very easy and quick to fit or remove.

Secondly, although the choice of bikes fitted with hub gears - or with a frame suitable for fitting a hub gear - is not great, there are options, especially used bikes, e.g. at bike charities and on ebay.

For example, used Carrera Subway 8s can be found, i.e. the same hybrid that others have already suggested, but with a Nexus 8 speed hub gear, e.g.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/375331585742?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364925843745

Or the On One Pompetamine if narrower tyres are acceptable:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145834795674

I think buying a used bike is the best route to get something that would best suit the OP's needs, especially since the OP has experience of working on bikes and should be able to do any necessary work themself. The key thing is being able to judge whether a bike for sale is likely to be suitable, and also to recognise what replacement parts and work it will/might need. This option is not open to many people because they lack the skills, willingness and knowledge needed, so they buy something from a bike shop costing ten times more.

[Nearholmer]

isn't that just an excuse for getting more bikes?

Odd that you should mention that. I’ve had a bit of a “+1” feeling creeping up on me lately.

[Nearholmer]

I’ve listed suspension purely as I’ve not found a mountain bike at that level that hasn’t got front suspension.

Well, at that level , an MTBs with no suspension is pretty much a hybrid.

You can spot the hybrids that are “MTB inspired” because they tend to be a bit long and low, rather than “sit up and beg”

I know we’re all piling in on you with this advice but;

- cheap suspension is generally no good as suspension, but is annoyingly heavy; and,

- you don’t need it unless you are doing jumps or seriously rough and steep downhill stuff at high speeds.

A good rigid bike on the right tyres can be used to achieve a great deal off-road.

That having been said: if you want a bike with suspension, get a bike with suspension. Sometimes itches have to be scratched. You never know, it might be the gateway drug to ever more capable MTBs, and weekends spent tearing downhill through forests, dodging trees, boulders, and visits to casualty.