Rear hubs - Deore T610 vs Bitex 103

[Rob D]

Hi all. I need a new rear wheel, my Sputnik rim having worn rather earlier than I'd expected. I have the options of re-using the old Deore LX hub and spokes, getting a whole new wheel with a Deore hub, or going with the Bitex - which is quite a lot more expensive.

Is the Bitex worth going for? Its sealed cartridge bearings would obviously help its longevity, but that's maybe not a huge issue if I service the Deore regularly. Most of my cycling is touring, and the rear wheel carries a fair load as we don't use front panniers. So I'm prepared for the extra spend IF it's justifiable. FWIW, when not touring, I don't ride much in bad weather.

Another thought - I'm guessing the wheel's done about 10 k km, possibly more. Rather than rebuild this wheel, with the possible age-related problems of the LX hub, would it be wise to go with the standard Deore, keeping the old wheel for non-touring use? A new Deore hub might be better than an old LX - but I realise its condition isn't known to the panel...

Many thanks.

[mig]

re-rim if the hub is perfectly is okay.

[hamster]

The Bitex hub has to avoid the Shimano freehub patent and therefore the axle remains unsupported from the inner flange - the freehub body runs on the axle whose RHS bearing is under the inner flange. The axle is unsupported outboard of that, really just like a freewheel hub.

Personally I'd stick with a Shimano LX hub with steel axle. The genius of them is that the axle is supported at its RHS tip under the freehub body, which is rigidly connected to the hub. The design has over 35 years of proven reliability under its belt.

[Rob D]

Many thanks both. Interesting re patent - so that helps explain the 6 bearings.

[scottg]

Many thanks both. Interesting re patent - so that helps explain the 6 bearings.

Sealed bearings are better thought of as cartridge bearings when talking
bicycle hubs, the sealing against the environment is better in Shimano
Deore hubs.

[pwa]

re-rim if the hub is perfectly is okay.

+1
Or get someone else to do it for you. Your hub and spokes should outlive two or three rims.

[Brucey]

IME few things are as long-lived as a shimano cassette hub with a 10 mm steel axle, provided it is adjusted and lubricated correctly. The Bitex hub is unlikely to take a big load as well as a shimano hub, even if you improve the bearings (which you should).

[Rob D]

That's helpful, thanks all. I feel I know where I am with Shimano.

'hibs' are now hubs''... Big fingers.

[Rob D]

IME few things are as long-lived as a shimano cassette hub with a 10 mm steel axle, provided it is adjusted and lubricated correctly. The Bitex hub is unlikely to take a big load as well as a shimano hub, even if you improve the bearings (which you should).

Improve the bearings in what way? Change balls (if so, what grade?), check/adjust cones, or check/add grease?

[Brucey]

the Bitex hub uses cartridge bearings. Such bearings can always be improved eg. by using better grease, revising the seal arrangements, and/or a DFC conversion. However, nothing you can do will make the axle any stronger.

[Rob D]

Thanks Brucey. I'd been thinking you meant the Deore. This looks increasingly the way to go, tho still to decide on re-rim old or go for new.

[531colin]

Check out the LX hub.
Out of the parts of the hub bearings it’s the cones which wear first and a wear track is dead easy to spot.
The freewheel body needs checking for excessive play; it’s pretty obvious if the pawls skip.
I found the old steel axle XT hubs to be virtually everlasting given an annual squirt of grease for the left side and semi-fluid grease for the freewheel side.

[Rob D]

Thanks Colin, will do. It looked OK when I serviced it in March.

On this, what grade of balls do you recommend for such a wheel?

[531colin]

Thanks Colin, will do. It looked OK when I serviced it in March.

On this, what grade of balls do you recommend for such a wheel?

If the balls are worn, the cones will be scrap. .....because the balls have many, many times the surface area.
I normally just keep the original balls where they are and add some grease/semi fluid grease. ....but I wouldn't mix left and right balls just in case theres some wear. Notionally the balls wear as a "set".

[Rob D]

Thanks Colin. The small number I've serviced have seen a few balls with pitted surfaces, whilst the cones have been smooth. So I've replaced the balls with G25s.
Where there's no been evidence of wear, I've kept left and right separate.