Broken spoke
Re: Broken spoke
You can just replace the rim but the wheel then needs to be rebuilt by hand. No problem if you can do it yourself but if you are paying a bike shop to do it then it is probably cheaper to buy a new machine built wheel.A new rim means new wheel?
- Chris Jeggo
- Posts: 663
- Joined: 3 Jul 2010, 9:44am
- Location: Surrey
Re: Broken spoke
I think what we are looking at here is a broken spoke with part of the nipple still attached. The rim may still be OK.
Can you upload a photo of where the broken spoke would have joined the rim?
Re: Broken spoke
Unless I'm much mistaken this is a Shimano wheel with the nipples at the hub.
I had a very similar 105 wheelset. It had bladed spokes which look strong but are weak due to having the cross section reduced to fit the nipple. The nipples seem oversized but have standard threads.
The rim end was a large piece of metal. The spoke was fed through the rim and then the nipple was fitted at the hub.
After a few weeks of having these wheels a spoke broke and I had to procure a replacement - they are individually quite expensive.
As a temporary measure I used a normal spoke with a washer at the spoke head in order to prevent it pulling out of the rim.
When I received the new spoke I replaced it - it didn't take much truing.
I continued using this wheel set and on occasion had a broken spoke.
As the rear rim was wearing I decided to rebuild the wheel - (I was aware that this was difficult but stubbornly went ahead.)
After the rebuild the wheel seemed ok but I had a spoke break during an audax - I decided that this wheel wasn't worth the trouble and
scrapped it.
The problem of a broken spoke with this set up is that to to fit a new spoke one has to remove the rim tape - unlike with a normal wheel where the nipple is at the rim and can usually be used for a replacement.
It seems to me that the spoke in question is a normal spoke fitted without a washer as in my temporary fix.
As I recall the rim is offset to reduce dishing.
It seems that someone has attempted to partially rebuild this wheel with normal spoke - there still seems to be bladed spokes remaining.
.
I had a very similar 105 wheelset. It had bladed spokes which look strong but are weak due to having the cross section reduced to fit the nipple. The nipples seem oversized but have standard threads.
The rim end was a large piece of metal. The spoke was fed through the rim and then the nipple was fitted at the hub.
After a few weeks of having these wheels a spoke broke and I had to procure a replacement - they are individually quite expensive.
As a temporary measure I used a normal spoke with a washer at the spoke head in order to prevent it pulling out of the rim.
When I received the new spoke I replaced it - it didn't take much truing.
I continued using this wheel set and on occasion had a broken spoke.
As the rear rim was wearing I decided to rebuild the wheel - (I was aware that this was difficult but stubbornly went ahead.)
After the rebuild the wheel seemed ok but I had a spoke break during an audax - I decided that this wheel wasn't worth the trouble and
scrapped it.
The problem of a broken spoke with this set up is that to to fit a new spoke one has to remove the rim tape - unlike with a normal wheel where the nipple is at the rim and can usually be used for a replacement.
It seems to me that the spoke in question is a normal spoke fitted without a washer as in my temporary fix.
As I recall the rim is offset to reduce dishing.
It seems that someone has attempted to partially rebuild this wheel with normal spoke - there still seems to be bladed spokes remaining.
.
- Chris Jeggo
- Posts: 663
- Joined: 3 Jul 2010, 9:44am
- Location: Surrey
Re: Broken spoke
That red thing looks like a headless nipple to me. It is partly square to take a spoke key. I can't see any nipples at the hub, and the other end of the bent spoke can be seen too (to the left of the pedal in the original photo) - straight pull but a standard looking head that located in one of the hub flange blocks.
Edited 11:09am.
Edited 11:09am.
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rareposter
- Posts: 3078
- Joined: 27 Aug 2014, 2:40pm
Re: Broken spoke
No, they're straight pull spokes, nipples at the rim.
I think that nipple has just sheared, I doubt it's pulled through the whole rim.
Either way, the only info the OP needs is:
take it to a bike shop.
Best case, it'll be one spoke to be replaced and a cost of maybe £15 parts and labour.
Worst case, it'll be a whole new wheel at a cost of up to £70 or so for a basic replacement.
Re: Broken spoke
Add on a new rear mech and setting it all up.rareposter wrote: ↑9 Jul 2024, 11:18amNo, they're straight pull spokes, nipples at the rim.
I think that nipple has just sheared, I doubt it's pulled through the whole rim.
Either way, the only info the OP needs is:
take it to a bike shop.
Best case, it'll be one spoke to be replaced and a cost of maybe £15 parts and labour.
Worst case, it'll be a whole new wheel at a cost of up to £70 or so for a basic replacement.
Peugeot 531 pro, Dawes Discovery Tandem, Dawes Kingpin X2, Raleigh 20 stowaway X2, 1965 Moulton deluxe, Falcon K2 MTB dropped bar tourer, Rudge Bi frame folder, Longstaff trike conversion on a Giant XTC 840, Giant Bowery, Apollo transition. 
Re: Broken spoke
I confess I have made temporary replacements for straight-pull spokes by straightening ordinary spokes. In this case, it looks like the nipple failed, so it may be possible to effect a temporary repair using a standard brass nipple and a washer. IIRC the correct part is about £5 from shimano.
It may be possible to straighten various things (eg. the gear hanger) but most folk would budget for replacements.
The chain is probably damaged, and unless the cassette is practically new, it doesn't really make sense to fit a new chain on a used cassette, so it is very likely that a professional repair will include a new cassette.
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Re: Broken spoke
Thanks I'll have to take it in could be a big job. It's likely happened as the chain is wrong?
Re: Broken spoke
No as Brucy said earlier by far the most likely scenario isIt's likely happened as the chain is wrong?
typically what happens is that the rear derailleur (aka 'the rear mech') plunges into the wheel (through wear or bad adjustment, or the mech being a bit bent already) and this breaks spokes.
Re: Broken spoke
Thanks so it's either wear or bad adjustments. I didn't no how to check this sadly when bought it
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rareposter
- Posts: 3078
- Joined: 27 Aug 2014, 2:40pm
Re: Broken spoke
Equally, the undone laces on your right shoe (see the photo on previous page) could easily have got snagged in the chain causing the mech to catch....
The mech has bent inwards and gone into the wheel. The spoke nipple (the red thing on the pic) has sheared at the point it meets the rim. The other end of the spoke is also visible in the pic - it's popped out of its seat in the hub and the whole spoke is tangled around the back of the cassette.
What's the score with that bike? There's fairly limited info in your post, it sounds like you bought it secondhand pretty recently? Any history on it?
I'd advise you to get the shop to check the whole bike over while they're fixing the rear wheel and the mech. If it's genuinely that much out of sync, there could be a multitude of other faults with it and it'd be worth getting that checked by a professional before you do too much more riding on it.
Re: Broken spoke
Yes I bought second hand around a month ago. The left pedal came off straight away the seller put a new left arm crank on. I think it came loose as it had been screwed in the wrong way before I bought it. Left hand thread
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Carlton green
- Posts: 4648
- Joined: 22 Jun 2019, 12:27pm
Re: Broken spoke
I pretty much only buy second had bikes, but in parts that market place is a minefield of incompetence, bodgery and sometimes even dishonesty.
Don’t fret, it’s OK to: ride a simple old bike; ride slowly, walk, rest and admire the view; ride off-road; ride in your raincoat; ride by yourself; ride in the dark; and ride one hundred yards or one hundred miles. Your bike and your choices to suit you.