Cycling UK Forum

Hi ... my new Sturmey 5 speed trike hub is locked. Will not turn. Chain is almost all the way in and will not pull out even a fraction. Is there anything I can do short of returning?
Thanks, Zene

there are numerous different versions of SA's 5s hub so you really need to say exactly what is written on the hub and/or show photographs. However, if the trike is new and faulty, you should let the vendors sort it out.

Will do, thx.
It's a SRC 5 (w) trike conversion.
Zene

Looks like the coaster brake version of the SRF5(w)

I think Brucey will be the best person to advise, but can you give more information about anything that was happening before you found that the indicator chain was seized?

e.g. were gears just changing fine or did the gears sometimes slip? or make clunking noises?

Also has it done a lot of miles? ; has it sat for ages before the problem?

If you turn by hand does the wheel turn freely?

If you slowly turn it backwards does it feel like it's trying to jam?

Stuff this should help a potential diagnosis.

Thx, hope this helps: Brand new, rod easily removed it is positioned all the way in.
It worked initially but could not get into first. Just rode easily a bit and planned on adjusting later.
No noise, it just locked up tight
and I wasn't riding when it seized. It will not rotate in either direction.
Zene

I am not going to pretend to be an expert on these hubs (unlike Brucey), but the fact that it didn't make noises when you rode it, might mean it's not dead. It may be that the key that slides up and down the axle and "triggers" each gear( via moving/ locking the suns) is jammed between positions ? As far as I can see you are going to have to take the internals out ( more fun on a trike I imagine) and take it apart and inspect all parts to pin down the problem....and any replacements needed.

[EDIT: If brand new and fitted by bike shop/trike is new...you may have some mileage with the shop....if you can get it there.....although I guess they may argue it's a gear setting issue that is the owners responsibility)

exploded diagram here:
https://www.jbi.bike/web/links/69223-St ... d-View.pdf

I had a SRF5(w), which I believe is largely the same in the gear parts. It has only a very small cable pull between each gear. If it goes out of setting the hub can destroy itself easily, so it is very important to be familiar with the gear setting procedure. If it slips, check and reset the indicator straight away. Don't just carry on riding, even lightly. Make sure you don't have a sticky gear cable as well ( this was a problem when I used the SRF5(w) on my folder....and I had to essentially shake down the cable run and check the setting when I unfolded the bike !)

The Sturmey 5 speed levers have also been a problem, in that they are draggy and do not naturally return to the detent ( so worth saying what lever you have as there may be specific advice on how to minimise the risk from the lever to the hub.......once you hopefully sort the hub)

(Hopefully Brucey will be along at some point and advise more authoritatively) ( whilst you are waiting, you may find this previous post enlightening.......but make a strong coffee first to help the focus! viewtopic.php?t=128331&hilit=dog+locking )

Sorry for delay thanking you guys.
Was waiting for dealer reply.
Said to return, but believe I will be paying for shipping and repairs.
Guessing not worth the effort so thinking about doing my own surgery.
It most likely will be terminal as I have no idea what I'm doing.
Ebay videos look like no help.

So, if you guys can help, I plan to use two crank chainrings with my 3 speed that will essentially do the same thing as a 5 speed.

Can someone give me the optimum spacer size for the 1/8" chain?
Thanks, Zene

If you give a rough location someone may be close to give you some assistance.

Not quite sure what the questions are? What you are intending? Can you clarify.

Sounds like you are abandoning the 5 speed and replacing with a 3 speed and 2 chainrings. Whole hub change? or just swapping over the internals?

I'm not familiar with the Trike set-up so a photo of how the hub is 'plumbed-in' may help me/ others.

( Just checked on-line on the SRC5(w) and see, in UK, that can only get whole internal....and can't even find the key on sale. So fixing the existing hub....has limited options ( in uk anyway)..... essentially has to be no material damage.....or replace internals)

Zene wrote: ↑5 Oct 2024, 7:50am Sorry for delay thanking you guys.
Was waiting for dealer reply.
Said to return, but believe I will be paying for shipping and repairs.
Guessing not worth the effort so thinking about doing my own surgery.
It most likely will be terminal as I have no idea what I'm doing.
Ebay videos look like no help.

So, if you guys can help, I plan to use two crank chainrings with my 3 speed that will essentially do the same thing as a 5 speed.

Can someone give me the optimum spacer size for the 1/8" chain?
Thanks, Zene

I think it worthwhile questioning the dealer, what they supplied should work and if it doesn’t then that’s their responsibility (to correct) and not yours.

If you decide to go the three speed route then stick with just that, well certainly at first. That’s not to say the SA AW is a state of perfection that will suit everyone, but rather to say that in practise they can give enough utility to pretty much take you wherever you want to go to. See: viewtopic.php?t=134797 There will be, I feel sure, multiple threads on this forum about compound gearing added to SA AW’s … folk have been doing it for many decades.

Hoog ... thx, all need now is proper spacing for two front chainrings using single 1/8" chain. The Sturmey hubs are no longer a problem.
Zene

I'm not sure on that, as have not tried using 1/8" for derailleur. Can only suggest collecting washers/ fibre washers , measuring the gap in some 3/32 setups, then test some spacings a bit bigger.

Wondering if rear mech will be a problem.....may be not? If just for 2 chainrings.

1/8" chains all work with 1/8" or 3/32" sprockets but vary in design and therefore external width. Some 1/8" chains are built in the traditional way, with plain-sided rivets; others are built like 6s/7s chain, but wider. The former are usually ~9.5mm wide and the latter are narrower, about 8.5 mm wide. Either type can be used in some older RDs, but only the latter type (which often shifts better anyway) may be used in some more recent models.

Provided your chain is less than ~9 mm wide, you won't be needing the cogs more than ~3 mm apart. This normally means a pretty standard chainset will do, too. Obviously the FD needs to be selected with care; not all have a cage that is wide enough.

Guys ... didn't think about different single chain thickness. Will do bench set-up and gap at 2 - 3mm. No front DeR, switching manually so only need clearence and ease of moving chain.
Couldn't have done without all your help.
Zene