Rusty bottom bracket removal?

[DiTBho]

(
thinking about using temperature to loosen the grip...
... maybe there is also a second option: using something terribly cold and concentrated, like a jet of liquid nitrogen, to cool just the aluminum of the cap, so that it shrinks just enough to loosen the grip.

the main problem is that it is not a safe procedure, much more dangerous, I mean ... if you end up with nitrogen on your hand or fingers... it creates very serious years to your tissues, in addition to the fact that liquid nitrogen... is usually not even easy to find

Maybe NOS is an alternative, after all it is used to create controlled thermodynamic shocks in race cars.

I would leave it alone though. I have never tried it, it is only theoretical.
)

[AndyB1]

There is a spray used by plumbers which when sprayed over a pipe cools the water in the pipe enough to freeze it (and stop it flowing). Never used it, but it may be available at DIY shops.

Directions of rotation to undo which are quoted a few posts above sound correct - the undoing rotation direction should be the same direction as the crank rotates when you pedal (so if the crank seized in the BB it would undo the BB shells rather than suddenly lock up).
Same thing with pedals, if they seize up they should undo from the crank arms. All about safety if your feet are tied into the pedals.

CORRECTION
Mike’s post below gives correct hands of threads

[Mike Sales]

Aha so they are basically quite similar to pedals? One left threaded and the other one right threaded or something like that?

Yes, but opposite. The left pedal is left hand thread, but the right BB cup, on British made bike, is the left handed one.
This is down to precession.

So the non drive side should it be removed by screwing clockwise or is it the other way around?
Any way to know which to screw which way?

thanks

No, the non drive, left side cup is a normal thread and unscrews counter clockwise.

[rogerzilla]

Try actual Plus Gas, not WD40 or anything else. Hold the removal tool in place with a bolt and appropriate washers, then use a mallet on the end of a big adjustable spanner, making sure to turn the correct way.

With traditional cup and cone units, the RH cup is difficult because it only has small flats. A real fixed cup spanner (and mallet) works almost all the time, but the Sheldon Brown "bolt method" can be used as a last resort before you take the bike to the shop, where the gorilla they keep chained out back will remove it effortlessly and charge you for your weakness.

[Jdsk]

Try actual Plus Gas, not WD40 or anything else.
...

Totally agree about using penetrating fluid rather than a general purpose spray lubricant/ water displacer. But people who aren't familiar with this need to know that the WD-40 brand now includes a penetrating fluid!

I use PlusGas penetrating fluid. But I wish that the evidence was better.

Jonathan

[axel_knutt]

(
thinking about using temperature to loosen the grip...
... maybe there is also a second option: using something terribly cold and concentrated, like a jet of liquid nitrogen, to cool just the aluminum of the cap, so that it shrinks just enough to loosen the grip.

the main problem is that it is not a safe procedure, much more dangerous, I mean ... if you end up with nitrogen on your hand or fingers... it creates very serious years to your tissues, in addition to the fact that liquid nitrogen... is usually not even easy to find

Maybe NOS is an alternative, after all it is used to create controlled thermodynamic shocks in race cars.

I would leave it alone though. I have never tried it, it is only theoretical.
)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/MOTIP-Freezer- ... 119&sr=8-6

[Brucey]

.... use a mallet on the end of a big adjustable spanner...

IME this is an excellent way to break your tool without removing your bottom bracket. Ask me how I know this....

By contrast, the 'hammer massage' method rarely fails and is used by competent professional mechanics.

[Brucey]

...No, the non drive, left side cup is a normal thread and unscrews counter clockwise.

regardless of threading standard the NDS cup will have a RH thread and should be removed first. Having identified the thread, you can be reasonably sure of which way to turn the DS cup. Just to keep you on your toes, if the NDS cup is 35x1 threaded, the DS cup could be LH or RH threaded, although the latter is more commonplace. Most bikes sold in the UK will have a 1.370"x24tpi LH thread on the DS. As a last resort, careful inspection of the unused threads on the DS will sometimes reveal the handedness.

Commonly, a 24 tpi thread is used for freewheels and most 1" headsets. If the pitch of the NDS cup thread is an exact match, and the diameter is correct, you can be reasonably sure that you have a standard BSA threaded BB.

[-Cyclist-]

I have now managed to pull the last energy out of my body and gotten the drive side of. I used a big leverage pipe on a wrench as the pictures show. I also used the tip on pressing the thing into the frame first to have it in place.

But.. Now I also need to remove the non drive side. And this one is stuck even harder than the drive side I think. Issue is that I do not get a good grip with the removal-tool. Because I have drilled and sawed and massaged. So these holes where the tool should fit into are not as firm as before.

So when I crank on it like crazy only the tool rotates not the crank in there. Not sure how to solve this. Maybe sawing it with a really sharp saw or something into the middle so it then can be collapsed inwards against itself?

Or.. Maybe I could glue the remover onto there? WIth Tec7 or something?
In this video you can see the side I have removed and at the end I film from the bottom. On the other side where it needs to be removed from.
https://www.veed.io/view/dea2d71a-22fb- ... anel=share

[-Cyclist-]

Also I think when I have gone about cranking and being violent to this one, with the drill, I think I could have hurt some of the threads. So to be out in good time, if someone has a link to a non threaded bottom bracket on ebay, aliekspress or temu? That would be nice since maybe I might need one of those when I eventually get this one out. Thanks

[rogerzilla]

.... use a mallet on the end of a big adjustable spanner...

IME this is an excellent way to break your tool without removing your bottom bracket. Ask me how I know this....

By contrast, the 'hammer massage' method rarely fails and is used by competent professional mechanics.

You sneer, but the only time I've ever broken a BB tool was using the "put the tool in a vice and turn the frame" method, which was remarkably useless compared to a shock.load. And I've done plenty of BBs that have been in place for 60 years. Obviously these didn't use the Shimano tool.

[531colin]

Those “thread less” bottom brackets aren’t that good: they mostly rely on friction to stop the bearing unit rocking in the frame. The good ones used to require a chamfer cut into the ends of the BB shell to fit a matching cone shape of the lock rings.
As long as the thread isn’t too damaged, it can be cleaned up running a tap through, frame builders have BB taps