Specialised Sirrus parts question??

[PT1029]

The last time I dismantled a Specialized headset (probably an Allez or Sirrus) the balls were 1/8" size.
Even is the cup surfaces are a tad rough, it will probably run ok for some time. Put plenty of grease around (inside) the fork spacers above the headset, this will help stop water from running down the fork column and finishing up in the lower headset bearing.
Fitting balls will be cheap + time if you do it yourself. Adjusting is quite easy if you look it up (Parl Tool website is a good source of info).
Getting a shop to fit a new headset will probably be about £55 or more.
Adding mud guards will stop water coming in from below.

[Mansize-Rooster]

Thanks for all the comments.

Im reluctant to going to take to lbs as to fix this is more than the bike is worth i think. Would like to try but so much information posted its hard to see exactly what id need. So by adding ball bearings you mean putting them into the gaps I have? One of the cages is bent and twisted. Surely I can't put 23 new ball bearings into the bent one?

[Mansize-Rooster]

I really appreciate so many of you going to the effort to help and comment. Im sure for many of you it'd be an easy job. Thank you.

[Brucey]

... One of the cages is bent and twisted. Surely I can't put 23 new ball bearings into the bent one?

put the cages in the bin (where they belong) and use loose balls instead. Read my post carefully.

[Cyclothesist]

... One of the cages is bent and twisted. Surely I can't put 23 new ball bearings into the bent one?

put the cages in the bin (where they belong) and use loose balls instead. Read my post carefully.

I had a similar issue with an old Kona Jake (2010 model). The headset caged bearings were rusted to bits literally and had notched the races leading to indexed (notchy) steering. I binned the caged bearings, cleaned everything up and fitted loose balls in the races with a generous helping of grease. You need around twice as many loose ball bearings as are in a caged set to complete the race (1 fewer than 'completely' filling the race). That removed the notchy indexing problem because the ball bearings no longer lined up with the pits in the race and the headset felt as good as new. That was many years ago and the headset and bike are still going.
The purpose of this tale is to tell you there's hope for a cheap and lasting fix for the problem. The bearing races may be pitted but still serviceable for many years to come if you follow the steps Brucey outlined.

[Mansize-Rooster]

Thanks. Right I'm gonna give it a go and follow the advice. I'll get a bag of ball bearings and some grease and give it a go. It's unuseable atm so can't make it any worse

Thanks for the advice today.

[gbnz]

I'll second what IRC says about mudguards . Most of the water that has found it's way into your headset will have come off the front wheel.

Mudguard post, product reviews

[gregoryoftours]

Thanks. Right I'm gonna give it a go and follow the advice. I'll get a bag of ball bearings and some grease and give it a go. It's unuseable atm so can't make it any worse

Thanks for the advice today.

It will be a pretty cheap fix if all goes to plan. Just make sure that you don't throw the old ball bearings away until you have the new ones as a side by side comparison for size, or you have a vernier caliper or some other way of confirming the correct size to match the current balls.

[Brucey]

bad though it undoubtedly is, IME headsets need to be a lot worse than that before they are a dead loss. It is not at at all unusual for a rebuilt headset to soldier on for years.

FWIW one of the many flaws in most A-head setups is that water can enter the bearings from above, eg. via the split/wedge ring. A laminated rubber wedge ring (eg made using pieces of old inner tube) will largely prevent this, but in the absence of this it is strongly recommended that the steerer etc. are rendered hydrophobic by copious use of vaseline.