I have used many different types of lube sprays, and cycle oils on my bikes over the years, and have found that Teflon based sprays like GT 87 and similar light oil sprays are better than anything else so far.
Expensive lube like the ones that come in small bottles called ( ) I dont know if you are allowed to name the brands on this messege board? Will once you have coated your chain with them, over a period of days fly of the chain and land on the rim of the rear wheel, this is not a problem in of itself as all cycle oils and sprays do this to some extent which is why the back wheel tends to look more dirty than the front after some use. However the big problem with Teflon based lube is that if used in the expensive non spray form were you just squirt it out of a sqeezey bottle onto the chain, is that it will badly stain your rear wheel and mech and whats more it will be impossible ever to remove all the crud on your once shiny rear rim. So I would never use anything but light spray on lube like G.T. 85. And avoid all these expensive squirt on bottles of chain/general bike oil. Especially avoid the waxy onces that dry fast, the wax just makes it even more hard to remove from your rim and mech, it should be against the law for them to sell damaging stuff like this to unsuspecting cyclists!
I would be grateful to hear from anyone else with similar experiences.
cycle lube sprays
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jb
Re:cycle lube sprays
Hi Pat
Do you have your chains properly degreased with every trace of the manufacturers protective grease removed? If not the Teflon particles in your dry lube will not stick to the metal parts that they are suppose to hold apart once the solvent that they are suspended in evaporates. This is something the lube manufacturers of this stuff neglect to inform of in there info. Usually just saying “clean” the chain before applying which is not quite the same thing.
It is usually the act of trying to clean a chain at home that drives most of the grit sitting harmlessly on the outside, down into the links where it can start to busy itself with wearing the links out from the inside.
Whilst bog standard oil left on a chain, applied regularly & not disturbed is probably the best lubricant. For people who like shiny chains WD forty type sprays applied even more regularly are probably best as they will wash out the old lube along with any contamination before going more viscous when the solvent evaporates
Do you have your chains properly degreased with every trace of the manufacturers protective grease removed? If not the Teflon particles in your dry lube will not stick to the metal parts that they are suppose to hold apart once the solvent that they are suspended in evaporates. This is something the lube manufacturers of this stuff neglect to inform of in there info. Usually just saying “clean” the chain before applying which is not quite the same thing.
It is usually the act of trying to clean a chain at home that drives most of the grit sitting harmlessly on the outside, down into the links where it can start to busy itself with wearing the links out from the inside.
Whilst bog standard oil left on a chain, applied regularly & not disturbed is probably the best lubricant. For people who like shiny chains WD forty type sprays applied even more regularly are probably best as they will wash out the old lube along with any contamination before going more viscous when the solvent evaporates
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Pedalling Pete
Re:cycle lube sprays
I can't say I share the problems Pat describes. But I agree the bike gets filthy! On my best bike in the Summer I use White Lightening dripped onto a clean chain. That keeps things very clean and well lubricated, which minimises wear and saves money in theory.
Once Winter arrives, and the roads throw muck and moisture onto the chain, a totally different approach is needed. I spray WD40 onto chain to disperse the water and consequently prevent rust. But when the WD40 has evaporated I use a spray lubricant to penetrate the chain, also allowing time to dry before use.
With regular use, you'll ideally be cleaning off the collected muck in a paraffin bath every couple of weeks. In addition use a chain stretch tool to monitor the wear. Regular cleaning and prompt replacement of a stretched chain saves money on replacement of the chain, cassette, chainrings and jockey wheels.
As for the muck on the tyres and rims, well regularly remove the wheels and scrub in some form of detergent. Much of the muck comes not from the chain, but from the alloy oxide scraped off the rims by the brake blocks. If you want to prevent that, you'd better get a fixed wheel, so you use the brakes less!
Once Winter arrives, and the roads throw muck and moisture onto the chain, a totally different approach is needed. I spray WD40 onto chain to disperse the water and consequently prevent rust. But when the WD40 has evaporated I use a spray lubricant to penetrate the chain, also allowing time to dry before use.
With regular use, you'll ideally be cleaning off the collected muck in a paraffin bath every couple of weeks. In addition use a chain stretch tool to monitor the wear. Regular cleaning and prompt replacement of a stretched chain saves money on replacement of the chain, cassette, chainrings and jockey wheels.
As for the muck on the tyres and rims, well regularly remove the wheels and scrub in some form of detergent. Much of the muck comes not from the chain, but from the alloy oxide scraped off the rims by the brake blocks. If you want to prevent that, you'd better get a fixed wheel, so you use the brakes less!
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Pedalling Pete
Re:cycle lube sprays
"his bike seized within a week and had to scrap it" Given the serviceability and replaceability of most cycle components this sounds rather unnecessary. I'm wondering why this clubrider didn't seek your advice, Roadrunner? Or was your advice to scrap the bike and buy something else.......