What Style of Bike For Comfort To Replace My Hybrid

[bertie1969]

Hey guys im 56 and i have a slight balance issue and i wobble a bit when i cycle. I am planning on getting an ebike, perhaps second hand to replace my Cannondale hybrid. The roads and paths around me are quite rough, my bike has thin tyres and a road bike style saddle, no suspension and its a nightmare to ride on. Im used to a decent bike with decent components and i dont want something with cheapo parts.

I fancy a mountain bike with front suspension but i read a lot of negative things about this too. Is is best to get a bike with bigger tyres, comfy seat and comfy grips. What will give me the comfort that im seeking?

[Jdsk]

That's a problem with balance whether you're on a bike or not? It's not caused by the bike?

...

It sounds as if you might be able to improve your current bike with wider tyres and a different saddle. Are you interested in trying that first? If so please could you add some photos of the bike and of you riding it.

...

But if you have decided to buy a new eBike how much would you like to spend?

Jonathan

[fatmac]

If you can fit 1.75" tyres, that will iron out quite a few bumps....

[bertie1969]

That's a problem with balance whether you're on a bike or not? It's not caused by the bike?

...

It sounds as if you might be able to improve your current bike with wider tyres and a different saddle. Are you interested in trying that first? If so please could you add some photos of the bike and of you riding it.

...

But if you have decided to buy a new eBike how much would you like to spend?

Jonathan

Many thanks for your reply. Im not sure why but i have never found my hybrid as easy to corner/steer as my old Carrera road bike. I get a lot of pain in the palms of my hands too, i plan to check my seat height and position. The Top of my front fork measures 2.0".

I no longer have a car and i dont work due to health issues, i thought an ebike would make travelling 10 to 15 miles a bit easier. If i ever return to work i then have a means of getting to work. I read you can fit an accelerator as long as you get the bike approved.

My next bike i have £1000 to £1200, i would get more for my money if i buy second hand.

[bertie1969]

If you can fit 1.75" tyres, that will iron out quite a few bumps....

Many thanks for your reply. The top of my fork is max 2" so your probably right regarding size.

[Nearholmer]

I’ve got flat-bar bikes of not dissimilar configuration to that, and drop-bar bikes, and there is a difference in handling between the two sorts. I find that on a drop bar bike, i barely steer consciously at all, I sort of “think may way round corners”, and I always feel really well connected to the bike, but on the flat-bar bikes steering sometimes feels more conscious, and I don’t quite feel so well connected to the bike …….. it doesn’t become an extension of me in quite the same way.

As for comfort, first check your fit very carefully using Colin531’s excellent DIY guide.

As regards palm discomfort, that is usually down to too much weight on the hands, which the DIY guide will sort out for you, but using grips like Ergon GP5 can help massively too, by giving a different hand orientation.

Tyres: I wouldn’t go below 35mm, and prefer 40mm (1.6”), and really I prefer tubeless to permit lower pressure, although tubed ones set at the recommended pressure for your weight (so not too high) are pretty good.

Don’t get tempted into buying a comfy-looking, very wide saddle with loads of padding, unless you get an e-bike which does all the work for you, because they can cause all sorts of discomfort in very uncomfortable places if you are putting some effort in.

Earlier today. That field is really, seriously bumpy, shake your teeth out stuff, but I can trundle across it OK by the combination of riding technique, using the “antlers” on the GP5 grips, and fairly squishy tyres.

[bertie1969]

I’ve got flat-bar bikes of not dissimilar configuration to that, and drop-bar bikes, and there is a difference in handling between the two sorts. I find that on a drop bar bike, i barely steer consciously at all, I sort of “think may way round corners”, and I always feel really well connected to the bike, but on the flat-bar bikes steering sometimes feels more conscious, and I don’t quite feel so well connected to the bike …….. it doesn’t become an extension of me in quite the same way.

As for comfort, first check your fit very carefully using Colin531’s excellent DIY guide.

As regards palm discomfort, that is usually down to too much weight on the hands, which the DIY guide will sort out for you, but using grips like Ergon GP5 can help massively too, by giving a different hand orientation.

Tyres: I wouldn’t go below 35mm, and prefer 40mm (1.6”), and really I prefer tubeless to permit lower pressure, although tubed ones set at the recommended pressure for your weight (so not too high) are pretty good.

Don’t get tempted into buying a comfy-looking, very wide saddle with loads of padding, unless you get an e-bike which does all the work for you, because they can cause all sorts of discomfort in very uncomfortable places if you are putting some effort in.

Earlier today. That field is really, seriously bumpy, shake your teeth out stuff, but I can trundle across it OK by the combination of riding technique, using the “antlers” on the GP5 grips, and fairly squishy tyres.

Hey there many thanks for your reply. I get what you say regarding drop bars but im overweight and not very fit, im not sure if drop bars are a bad choice for me now. I have never tried those extension bars you have in your pic.

How do i find colins guide as this site does not let you search through the members, is it a sticky on one of the forum sections?

I will consider those grips one day if my next bike is giving me discomfort there.

When it comes to wheel size is wider tyres better than 40mm to 45mm?

The saddle just gives me pain when i have not used it for a while. Im not sure if they should be comfortable or not.

I like your pic you posted, good to see you can handle the rough terrain.

[Jdsk]

How do i find colins guide as this site does not let you search through the members, is it a sticky on one of the forum sections?

https://wheel-easy.org.uk/wp-content/up ... -2017a.pdf

Jonathan

[Nearholmer]

When it comes to wheel size is wider tyres better than 40mm to 45mm?

There is a degree of personal taste in tyre sizes, so take what I say only as my preference, but:

For riding only on paved surfaces, so roads and respectably paved cycle ways, I find 32 to 35mm about right, fast enough, but comfy enough.

However, I ride on a right mix of surfaces, a lot of bumpy paved paths, and unpaved ground of all sorts, some of which is seriously bumpy, so I’ve been using 40mm tubeless on the bikes that I use on rougher ground for several years now, and they are a good compromise. Not too draggy on the road, and just about wide enough off-road.

As it happens, the bike in the photo gets used almost exclusively on rougher ground, and when those tyres wear out it is going to get 45mm ones, the biggest it will take. Ideally, that particular bike would get 50mm ones.

Tyres are a big subject though, because two tyres of the same size can be very different, and not just smooth or variously knobbly, some are famously stiff, some very draggy, others very supple. If you can describe the surfaces along your commuting route, people here will almost certainly be able to give recommendations.

[pjclinch]

The thing about bar styles and handling variations exists but is more about a personal interaction than drops work the same for everyone and flats work the same for everyone.
If you wheel a bike by the saddle you can steer it just the same by gently leaning it irrespective of what bar type it has, the lean of the bike turns the fork, not manhandling the bars, and if you do most of your steering effort by leaning the bike rather than manhandling the bars the bar type has much less effect on handling.
It's also the case that leaning weight on the bars (whatever sort) is not only uncomfortable for wrists but works against the bike being steered by leaning. Pushing down and forwards on both sides tends to prevent the fork from turning naturally with the lean of the bike, and that makes the handling feel off.

In other words, don't assume you need to drop bars for decent handling, though maybe a bit of re-learning of steering with more emphasis on leaning the bike with your hips would help, possibly along with changing your riding position so you're not leaning on the bars.

A modern mountain bike (e or otherwise) is designed for technical trails with drop-offs, rock gardens and some degree of getting air, and the forks are designed with that in mind, i.e. taking fairly big hits. On the road or smoothish tracks that translates as being over-engineered for the job in hand and consequently not actually that good at it (like a sledgehammer to crack a nut), so if you're not actually mountain biking you pay money for a heavier, slower bike.
Suspension is potentially a Good Thing, but if you can get something tuned to the sort of riding you're doing tends to be best. On the road you only really need < 5 cm of travel.

Saddles are personal taste, and mostly about shape. It's also the case that saddles provided on new bikes tend to be "contractual obligation" torture devices, working on the principle that most people will change them for something that's right for them. To find a good saddle, sit on a load, and preferably ride on them for a bit.

"Comfy grips" are a Good Thing, but the real key to comfortable hands is not putting much weight on them (a combination of riding position and habit). So by all means invest in comfy grips, but lean on your hands for any length of time and unless you do hundreds of push-ups a day it probably won't be very comfortable.

For choosing a bike, e or otherwise, it never hurts to try a load out. If you're going electric and what you really want is comfort on roads and good tracks you don't need anything special and the Dutch have these angles well covered. An upright sitting position makes keeping weight off hands relatively easy and that you catch the wind more is handled by the e-assist. A modern electric Dutch bike actually handles fine, something like https://www.gazellebikes.com/en-gb/ebikes/chamonix might not look cool and sporty but as I get older I'm far more interested in comfort and practicality than a sporty image.

Pete.

[AndyB1]

"Comfy grips" are a Good Thing, but the real key to comfortable hands is not putting much weight on them (a combination of riding position and habit). So by all means invest in comfy grips, but lean on your hands for any length of time and unless you do hundreds of push-ups a day it probably won't be very comfortable.

Agreed. I find that if my palm is always touching the ‘comfy grip’ then I get pins and needles in my hands. If the palm supports are rotated lower my hands are fine, and they still stop me having to hold the bar too tight.

[Jdsk]

How do i find colins guide as this site does not let you search through the members, is it a sticky on one of the forum sections?

https://wheel-easy.org.uk/wp-content/up ... -2017a.pdf

Thanks for the photos of the bike. It would help to see some of you riding it: feet on the pedals, hands in their most common position on the bars, close-ups of the hands and wrists.

Do you think that you'll be able to adjust the fit following that guide?

Jonathan

[Jdsk]

If you can fit 1.75" tyres, that will iron out quite a few bumps....

Many thanks for your reply. The top of my fork is max 2" so your probably right regarding size.

Tyres are a big subject though, because two tyres of the same size can be very different, and not just smooth or variously knobbly, some are famously stiff, some very draggy, others very supple. If you can describe the surfaces along your commuting route, people here will almost certainly be able to give recommendations.

Yes, please describe the intended surfaces.

And are you happy to change the tyres yourself when we've pursued this a bit further?

Jonathan

[531colin]

Bertie…..
Push the saddle as far back as it will go on the seatpost.
Remove the handlebar stem and re fit the other way up so the bars are higher.
Unless you are a giant, I suspect the saddle is too high.

Measure the width of your rims, where the brake blocks go; there is a relationship between the width of the rim and the recommended tyre width

Edit; as always, work out your fit on the bike you have got….otherwise you risk buying a new bike which doesn’t fit any better than the old one

[pjclinch]

Edit; as always, work out your fit on the bike you have got….otherwise you risk buying a new bike which doesn’t fit any better than the old one

Good advice: even if you change the style of bike completely, tuning up the fit of the current one will inform you on ways to approach most bikes' setup and that can have a significant effect on comfort - for example, little/no weight on your hands in normal riding will typically be a comfort benefit on any bike

Do have a look at 531colin's bike setup sheet referenced in his signature as to how to go about this, it's a really helpful bit of work.

Pete.