Any tips for looking at used recumbent?

[Galactic]

Hi all,

My first post in the HPV area of the forum, although I've long been reading and mulling over what has been posted here.

I'm hoping to go and look at a short wheelbase recumbent that I've found locally in the second hand ads. From the photos it looks like it's been well cared for, although the rear hub is an SRAM iMotion 9, which if original, dates the bike at 10 to 15 years old and the front suspension forks look about that age and a bit worn. There's no make or model details on the frame or in the ad (have asked for more info).

It has suspension fore and aft, which I gather is a good thing on 20" wheels.

The current owner is within an inch and a half of my size, so the bike should be long enough for me.

I'm wondering whether anyone has any tips at what to look at when I go for test ride? I'd be confident about doing this for a standard upright, but know next to nothing about recumbents. I'd be ok with changing the rear IGH and the rest of the drivetrain if necessary. From the photos it looks like the suspension forks are standard construction so could be swapped with an off-the-shelf replacement if necessary.

So far, the only thing I have on my list (other than can I ride this without immediately falling over and checking over the mechanicals) is how easy is it to push if I have to get off on hills and on railway platforms etc.

What else should I be looking for?

Many thanks for all and any input!

[[XAP]Bob]

If you’re confident for an upwrong what is it that you’re not sure about for a bent?

Check the main frame welds, and the seat condition.
Check any steering linkages - but most things are the same.

Pushing usually isn’t a significant difference, and you’ll learn to ride pretty quickly.
Recommmend scooting for a while (ie how you’d teach a kid to ride)

[pjclinch]

As [XAP]Bob suggests, just treat it like any other bike in terms of tyre-kicking.

For a test ride the current owner will usually be happy to help, as it helps with the sale. One thing where you don't want to treat it as a normal bike is don't pull on the handlebars when you start. It really doesn't help... That aside, however, things do work much the same, though it takes a while to persuade yourself that that's really the case.

(If you're anywhere within easy reach of Dundee my missus is thinking of selling on her Fiero Tour, a quite low 20/20 full sus short wheelbase - drop me a line and you can have a test ride of that too!)

Pete.

[deejayen]

Pushing a recumbent can be an issue. It all depends on the design (handlebar position and height of the bike\trike etc). It's worth checking out and considering this.

There are some tricks\techniques you can do with some types which can help (such as bungee-ing the handlebars to the seat and pushing the seat back) but it can be a pain with some recumbents.

I've found a highracer with aero bars (such as a Bacchetta) to be the easiest.

[Galactic]

Thanks for the replies so far. I guess I'm a little apprehensive about the unknown, for example the kind of thing to look for in a seat that you only get after you've sampled a few (if there is such a thing).

[XAP]Bob: when you say scooting, I guess you mean literally sit on the seat and push myself forwards with my feet on the floor to get a sense of the balance?

Thanks for the offer of a test ride, Pjclinch, Dundee is sadly a way outwith my reach.

The bike has high bars, which is one its attractions (along with the fact it's SWB and being offered for £300 ono). I'm hoping it'll be easier to get used to it with high bars, and on this bike they can be converted to low when i get more confident. But thanks to deejayen I'll be taking a bungee cord with me, just in case.

[UpWrong]

Changing the 20" forks might be difficult it the current one has a 1" steerer.

[Jdsk]

On those mechanicals: it sounds as if you're happy to address typical bike problems. Some parts on some recumbents are unusual: steering linkages, long chains and chain guides, cantilever hubs...
so I'd pay attention to any of those, and work out who is going to fix them if needed.

Jonathan

[Jdsk]

We used to use an SWB KingCycle (and an ordinary) to illustrate to adults how easy or hard it could be to learn new skills. Not heaving on the bars is mentioned above. I'd add being very aware of the position of the power stroke when setting off, and lifting that to the level of conscious thought until it doesn't need to be.

Jonathan

[deejayen]

I'd try to find out the make and model.

Some recumbents can have proprietary components which can be difficult to replace if they fail. The same goes for some 'standard' components such as old drum brakes (more of a trike thing) or Shimano Capreo cassettes (more of a 16" wheel thing). I've had to have some parts machined\fabricated for some bikes. There's less risk of this with a more 'mainstream' recumbent, especially if the manufacturer is still in business.

It's also worth checking that the wheels are a standard size, as there a number of variations in the nominal 20" size. The 406mm size is the most popular and has the widest choice of tyres. There's a restricted choice in 20" 451mm tyres, but the ancient 20" 500A size (which I have on one bike) and the 432mm tubulars (which I have on another bike!) are effectively obsolete.

Generally, a bike with dual 20" wheels is going to be harder to push as they're often quite low to the ground and you have to stoop to reach even the highest part of the bike. You may also find the seat horns bash into your ankles or lower legs when pushing. Some owners have made (and carry) handlebar extensions (to give extra height) which they can clip on when they need to push the bike!

[UpWrong]

Post a photo and we might be able to identify the make and model, and comment further.

[Galactic]

Thanks for comments, all very useful and helpful. I'm getting more of a feel for what to watch out for now.

Good point about proprietary and out of date parts. I'm pretty sure that's a threaded steerer, which already cuts down the options for 20" forks.

The wheels are 406mm so that's nice and easy. And the steering is easy, apart from that proprietary foldable steerer.

Bit concerned about the rear rack. Doesn't look like it would be happy with 20kg of touring luggage

Post a photo and we might be able to identify the make and model, and comment further.

Photo of red recumbent bike

It would be nice to know what make /model it is to narrow down possibilities and do my research before I go for a test ride (still waiting on the advertiser to get back to me - it might already have been sold for all I know). Any clues very welcome

(The Yosepower front motor hub is a bit of a bonus. If it doesn't work very well on the front of the recumbent I can put it on another bike - I'd be interested in putting a Bafang mid-motor on the bottom bracket (front bracket on a recumbent?) but that's a different topic for now).

[UpWrong]

Steel frame? I can't identify it, but it might be an early m5 with the suspension fork fitted later:
http://www.m5-ligfietsen.nl/site/EN/Mod ... _overview/

[a.twiddler]

Looks to me as if it could be one of the Sinner/Drymer models. The narrow flat strip mudguards particularly have that Sinner look about them. I had a Sinner Comfort trike with them on, and there have been a couple of Sinner Demon bikes on ebay with them. Those have square tubes,but some models had round tube frames. Although an old bike could have had a repaint by now, that red colour looks reminiscent, too. I would hazard a guess that it might be an earlier Sinner Spirit, at least to give a start for a direction to look in.

[UpWrong]

A Sirix Flash possibly:

[Anthony-C]

Ensure there'll be at least 12cm of boom in the frame tube once adjusted for you.

As a beginner put the bike in a low gear before getting on and always change down early, because it's easy to hurt your knees pushing as you might on a DF bike. Find a launch ramp and prepare to spin when you first set off. Once you're going try gentle turns at 6mph, then at 5.5 ...... Stop abruptly when needed. And enjoy!

PS be sure to get all the bits for the under-seat steering: very cool.