Cycling UK Forum

Has anyone tried the gunk stuff that you put inside the inner tube? I got a new inner tube a while ago that had that inside it already and it definitely *seems* to have had less punctures.

This is an update on the Continental Ultra Gatorskins after 2 months of use commuting in the nice wet weather.

What I have said previously about grip etc still holds true. So far I have still had no punctures, even after riding over the remains of 2 broken bottles in the wet. I have picked out some glass shards from the tire, but due to the lack of tread these tyres don't seem to retain as much glass.

I am still having trouble getting these tyres on and off the rim, I have had 3 failed spokes (between 2 wheels) since fitting these tyres and every time I have taken the wheel off I have punctured the inner tube with a tyre lever or the rim trying to get the back on. The last time I did discover that it was possible to get them on the rim using finger power, by pushing the tyre directly up over the rim (rather than in the direction you might expect). As such the thought of getting a puncture gives me the willies because I don't have confidence in being able to change the inner tube successfully, I also have a bunch of inner tubes covered in patches.

I cannot really be certain if all the broken spokes is to do with the tyres or just one of those things.

After about 300 miles there is no noticable wear, although all of the mold marks are now missing from the tyre, not convinced they have quite the wear life of Specialised Nimbus, but thats to be expected considering the softer compound and increased grip. Grip is still good even in the permanently wet weather, although I still fell off on a patch of black ice but I can't really ask them to grip that!!

Refitting a tyre with standard tyre levers is almost inevitably going to cause another puncture.

The VAR tyre lever avoids that damage by emulating replacing the tyre with your fingers. (I've not ploughed through the whole thread again so apologies if somebody has mentioned this before.)

thirdcrank wrote:Refitting a tyre with standard tyre levers is almost inevitably going to cause another puncture.

The VAR tyre lever avoids that damage by emulating replacing the tyre with your fingers. (I've not ploughed through the whole thread again so apologies if somebody has mentioned this before.)

Thanks for the tip, looks interesting, but I can't quite see how it works??!!?! I am always dubious about new fangled tyre lever ideas after buying a crank-bros super duper tyre leaver (the speed lever) and finding it to be totally useless at removing tyres. With the VAR lever do you have to push it along the rim, or do you still lever the tyre over the rim? because I can't do the pushing thing (thats why the speed lever didn't work for me).

insanityideas

I know what you mean about the speed lever, although the principle is sound - it's exactly the same idea as the machines garages use to fit motor vehicle tyres. I think the problem with the Crank Bros version is that it is made of plastic and that inhibits robust use. I see that Park Tool do a version in metal which costs 1 arm + 1 leg but I fancy would work but would not be cost effective for the home user - also workshop size so unsutable for road side use.

The VAR does not operate in the same way - I think it is unique: It hooks over the rim then pushes the bead in the same way as you might use your fingers. The other section is used to remove tyres like a conventional lever.

I think that modern rim designs, which tend to have a shallow well are the cause of a lot of the problem. It's also my impression (without anything to back it up) that better quality stuff is a tighter fit. Certainly, cheapo stuff seems to flop on and off.

It's been said on here before, that this is is largely a question of technique. The bead cannot stretch or it would not work properly - the tyre would blow off - so it must be a question of manipulating the tyre. Try and get the innertube out of the way by having it well up inside the tyre if poss. Then it's a question of creating as much slack to work with as possible by getting the 'opposite side' really down in the rim well.

I don't suggest this is easy but it is the only way. In the past when I have posted along these lines, some of the response has tended to suggest I am being unrealistic. All I can say is that 25 years ago my right thumb was broken in a cycling accident and it has nver regained its strength but I can fit tyres with my fingers. I used to have a Land Rover with Range Rover tyres and I could fit them without levers (using my feet rather than my hands.)

Yes wiggling the tye round until its deep into the well of the rim does the trick, and the deeper the rim section the more slack it gives you. Although tyres don't stretch because of finger action it is reasonable for them to give a litte bit with time as the steel or kevlar that makes up the beed is a cable just like any other and will give a little bit over time, although tyre manufacturers will for obvious reasons want to keep that to a minimum, and the sum total of this effect is likely to be minimal otherwise the tyre wouldn't fit the rim properly.

Some of this is definately technique, although different tyres are clearly built to different sizes. I would venture that more expensive tyres a manufactured a bit tighter because the manufacturer has a less conservative approach to tyre design and expects more extreme use of their product and therefore they make it less likely to fall off (either that or they have done more research and realised it really does need to be that tight, incase its used on a dodgy rim).

Just thought I would post another update on my experiences with the Continental Ultragatorskins now that we are 2 months, some ice and snow and a few hundred miles further down the road.

All my previous comments about extra grip, comfortable handling, sexy looks and general goodness still hold true. Very little wear is apparent on the tyre. I also now have some proof of puncture resistance having had a few rounds of flicking broken bottles out of the tread using my penknife I can confirm that it keeps them out of the innertube as well as my punctureproof Specialized armadillos, meaning thus far no punctures despite plenty of glass. There are of course a few slices out of the tyre now.

The bad news also continues though, after breaking countless spokes in my rear wheel I decided to try the tyre with a spare wheel as a fault finding exercise. This seems better, but a recent spoke breakage still leaves me uncovinced if the cause is wheel age or the smaller amount of "give" in these tyres. Needless to say it is disappointing that I have had to replace spokes on 3 separate occasions, less inconvinient that fixing punctures in the cold and wet, but only marginally so.

The self inflicted punctures continue as well, almost without fail I have damaged the inner tube every time I have re-fitted the tyre. It is soooooo tight on the rim that it either requires tyre levers or manages to pinch the tube when using fingers. BTW I am normally very good with this type of thing so its not ham-fisted ness.

So in conclusion the spoke breakages leading to self inflicted punctures and general time spent repairing things is putting a real blight on these tyres. Its not conclusive that its their fault, but the previous set of tyres never left the rims after being fitted and they covered a distance of 2000 miles in 12 months.

Hopefully my next update in a few months time will at least be able to prove if the spoke fairy has gone away. If it doesn't these tyres might be more trouble than their sexy grippyness is worth!

Broken rear spokes are something we've experienced a lot of on our tandem (Galaxy twin). After several replacements I spoke to one of the mechanics at our LBS & he said that the spokes supplied on the bike originally were "not up to standard".

He didn't actually say that, but I agree with MickF on the language point...

He also said this is normal on all bikes supplied complete these days - to keep overall cost & therefore price down, they fit the cheapest components they can where people don't usually notice - spokes, tyres...

Rear wheel now rebuilt with good spokes at avery reasonable price (£30 all in).

Gisen wrote:Has anyone tried the gunk stuff that you put inside the inner tube? I got a new inner tube a while ago that had that inside it already and it definitely *seems* to have had less punctures.

I've used 'Slime' inner tubes a couple of years back and didn't find it made but difference, apart from having a cluster of bright Green Bubbles appearing on the tyre surface when I got a pucture or two.
The purchase of decent/quality Puncture resistent tyres is a better bet.