Cycling UK Forum

I have at last decided to get a frameset built, I have decided on Eddison's at Clowne in Derbyshire, I know they have a good reputation and his work is good. I have decided on 631 lugged steel possibly slightly sloping top tube fast tourer...do I go for twin pivots or canti's, I intend to run 700x 28's aqnd will be fitting mudguards, I guess Shimano's would be the best brake option but I am unsure about the clearances, also I intend to build up with 105 triple any ideas?

If you're using 28mm tyres or less 57mm drop brakes are what I'd choose.


Edit I'm sorry for the original post,it was late and I'd meant to say less not bigger.I do apologise.

Hmm, I am currently running a pair of Shimano 57mm drop dual pivots on my winter bike with 28mm Pasela Tourguards but there is not quite enough room/clearance to get them under, the little black guides at the back of the brakes foul the mudguards.

Dual pivot every time, if they'll fit. Cantis have never worked well for me.

Although my winter bike has cantis they're a bit fiddly to set up so I'd go for dual pivot.

Discuss it with Chris when you go for the fitting. He can certainly make the frame to take 28C + mudguards and use Shimano 57mm dual pivots because he did just that for my wife & daughter.

PW wrote:Discuss it with Chris when you go for the fitting. He can certainly make the frame to take 28C + mudguards and use Shimano 57mm dual pivots because he did just that for my wife & daughter.

PW is right my Thorn Audax Mk3 has 28mm tyres,57mm d/pivots and m/guards with very good clearances,so it is possible.

Cheers chaps I will talk to Chris at Eddisons, at least I know its possible now, I like canti's but the straddle wire can often foul the rear carrier esspecially the older NOS bLackburn all alloy one I intend to get fitted to new frame.

I have a Woodrup frame with mudguards (fitted with bolts directly into the frame, rather than traditional brake bolt fittings) Shimano 57mm dual pivots and when I first got it I had 32mm tyres although I've since dropped to 28mm. They built it up for me and the brakes have spare adjustment on the drop. It's worked perfectly OK for me but the argument against is that it's dangerous if something gets trapped between wheel and mudguard because the modern type don't disintegrate like the old ones used to do. I'm not sure how having more clearance helps with that because it might arguably allow bigger stuff to get in there which would be pulled out if the leading edge of the mudguard acted like a tyresaver. It's never been a problem for me but it's something to be aware of. I suppose most of us use the q/r jobbies which fit on the stays but mine have never been tested for real. Having once been over the handlebars through my own stupidy when a lamp bracket got caught in the wheel, it's not something to fool about with.

It's one of the things that CJ has highlighted as a big danger and I think he has plenty of hard evidence to go on, not just conjecture.

If the mudguard is set to almost skim the tyre at the back end and it has a quick release fastening at the frame eye that problem won't arise. At worst the guard will knock the foreign object off the wheel then swing up as the q/r disconnects. It certainly has never been a problem in my 30+ years of adult riding, though I can see the possibility if the back edge of the guard has more clearance than under the fork crown/brake bridge.

Theres a lot to be said for m/guard eyes half way up the back of the fork blades, as if something is caught up in the m/guard, the m/guard swings away from the wheel and not into it.