Wallander country

Cycle-touring, Expeditions, Adventures, Major cycle routes NOT LeJoG (see other special board)
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ashworthlaing
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Joined: 24 Jan 2008, 7:38pm

Wallander country

Post by ashworthlaing »

As a fan of Henning Mankell and of the current series starring Ken Branagh I was really taken with the cycling possibilities of southern Sweden. Any tips on how to get there from Edinburgh? Could we perhaps do it via Denmark? Does the ferry still run from Tynemouth? I think HF used to do combined Denmark and Sweden tour but I can't get the brochure for 2009 yet.

Susan
York Commuter
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Joined: 21 Oct 2008, 8:20pm
Location: York

Getting to Sweden

Post by York Commuter »

Susan

it looks as though DFDS no longer run a ferry from Newcastle to Sweden - a shame because that would have suited you perfectly

http://www.dfdsseaways.co.uk/Ferry_Cros ... candinavia

Getting to Harwich could prove a problem, one solution could be to take the train to one of the mainline stations north of London, such as Peterborough, and cycle to Harwich from there. I looked into doing this by train from York, and there were, i think, two changes to go all they way by train - which was too many for my comfort zone.

From Esbjerg the quickest cycle route to Sweden would be to turn north to Frederikshavn (275 km) and get the local ferry (about 90 minutes) across to Gothenberg, or you could cycle east to Copenhagen (300 km), and then a little north to Helsingor (45 km) and hop on the very local ferry to Helsingborg (takes about 15 minutes) (Equally you could use the bike friendly Danish trains www.dsb.dk to either destination. You cannot cycle either the Storebaelt from Funen to Sealand bridge or across the Oresund bridge from Copenhagen to Malmo. The former I know can be done by train, the latter I suspect can - I've not done it - but the Danes and Swedes run integrated trains within the Oresund region.

Southern Sweden and Denmark are both delights in which to tour. Youth Hostels in both countries are excellent.

Hope these few points help.

Stephen
A commuter since 1991 when I moved to York.
A tourer since 1992
Now a married man who spends longer in the garage repairing and building than riding!
rualexander
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Post by rualexander »

Ryanair Edinburgh to Stockholm, or Prestwick to Gothenburg or Stockholm.
ashworthlaing
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Joined: 24 Jan 2008, 7:38pm

Post by ashworthlaing »

Thanks Stephen, very helpful - ferry to Esbjerg it is. I would rather not go than add to O'Leary's profits - sorry rualexander.
pal
Posts: 652
Joined: 22 Mar 2008, 11:49am

Post by pal »

An alternative might be to take the DFDS ferry from Newcastle to Amsterdam, then take the City Night Line train (the 'Borealis') from Amsterdam to Copenhagen (and then cycle or train from there as York Commuter suggests). I suspect that's no quicker (and it might even be slower... ) than Harwich-Esbjerg, but it's a nice journey (and avoids having to get through London).

I've just bought a cycling map of Skane too! The power of television...
ashworthlaing
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Joined: 24 Jan 2008, 7:38pm

Post by ashworthlaing »

I've just bought a cycling map of Skane too!
where from please?

Susan[/quote]
pal
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Joined: 22 Mar 2008, 11:49am

Post by pal »

The Skane tourist board web-shop has some cycling-specific maps (http://www.buyit.se/skanskabok_eng/defaultOpen.asp?page=lista.asp?kategori=57). I also got a 'normal' map from the (excellent, as always) Map Shop (http://www.themapshop.co.uk/). And, just to round off my list of internet plugs, I got the advice on which maps to buy from the very splendid http://www.cycletourer.co.uk/cycletouring/sweden.shtml.
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Helen
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Location: Lancashire

Wallander Country

Post by Helen »

Might see you there in June!

I've been reading the books this year. Wasn't impressed with the British version of "Sidetracked" - thought it too slow and moody - but Sunday's and the 2 Swedish ones that have been shown were better (maybe cos I haven't read those yet!)

If you find any links to Swedish phrases I can stick on my iPod, let me know...

I'm planning to "tick off" Denmark on my way and, not being much of a sailor, will probably fly with Ryanair. Mr O'L has hardly made much out of me lately with all the 2p returns I've enjoyed ha ha. (And I'm fed up with motorists slagging me off for flying.)

And if you want to avoid the debit/credit card charge, open a Halifax Easycash account online. The card has Visa Electron.
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Helen
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Location: Lancashire

Wallander country

Post by Helen »

http://www.ystad.se/ystadweb.nsf/docsby ... e/turismen

Ystad tourist information.
You can order brochures online here.
Tony
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Post by Tony »

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Helen
Posts: 367
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Location: Lancashire

Re: Wallander country

Post by Helen »

After 2 weeks riding round Denmark, I crossed the Oresund bridge from Copenhagen by train (117kr = £13.57 inc bike fee) to Malmo. There were cycle routes marked from Malmo to Trelleborg, then from Trelleborg to Ystad (so no maps needed!) These avoided some busy main roads.

Had a perfect day approaching Ystad. Rare tailwind from the west (rare on this trip, anyway), lovely sun and scenery. Flat after Denmark. Just before Ystad, stock up at new Netto - you can pay by VISA if you don't have Swedish dosh. At the nice picnic site by water treatment works, turn L under cycle subway.

Free internet in library and loads of books in English. I would have liked to chill for a couple of days and read.
Daily Wallander tours take place. I saw some filming going on down the prom cycle path (well, a load of people were in evening clothes at 9am, and lights were being rigged up) but don't know if it was Wallander. Ystad has film studios.

Town v pretty, and much bigger than expected. I found "Wallander's house" in Mariegatan, and the fictional and real-life police station uphill by the old water tower. The station youth hostel by the ferry terminal was currently shut for filming and had a Police sign stuck on it.

I stayed at its sister hostel, Kantarellen, a couple of km east of town, paying in Danish kroner. No cards accepted. Nicely situated in a garden by the seaside cycle path. Kitchen, TV. I asked for a dorm room and got a twin bunk to myself for about £19. I'd intended to wild camp but was a bit tired by 6pm and wanted to watch football! so treated myself. Anyway it was cheaper than the snooty campsite over the road who wanted about £20 off me for a Scandinavian Camping Card and a load of overnight fee just for one night. It took her ages to deign to lift her head to speak to me. I sniffed out wild camping possibilities in the woods up the cycle path east of the hostel. Not too far, cos then the undergrowth gets too thorny. I felt I would have had to doss till at least 10pm before pitching, and didn't feel like it.

Got ferry to Bornholm (Danish island) - 1h 15m catamaran 239SEK = £19.08, had 2 days of bad weather and caught 4h boat in horrible weather (I puked the whole way) to Sassnitz, Germany. That cost me and the other 50 cyclists 186kr (£21.32)

(I wanted to visit Prora near Sassnitz for the wartime holiday camp as seen in Palin's New Europe - it was GREAT! Then I rode (or you can get the train) along flat countryside on cycle routes to Berlin for my flight home.)

Would like to return to Ystad and do more of southern Sweden.
pal
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Joined: 22 Mar 2008, 11:49am

Re: Wallander country

Post by pal »

Another wallander-tourist reporting back: I started off in Malmo too, and enjoyed a sunny, tailwind assisted ride along the S. coast (interrupted by a few stops for a quick swim when it all got too hot). Very taken with Ystad -- though I didn't see any filming, and also failed in my mission to locate Wallander's favourite pizzeria for my evening meal. After Ystad, I swung north and headed up the East Coast 'Cykelsparet' to Stockholm -- Inspector Beck country! (But that would be a different thread...) A good trip, and I'd definitely recommend the east coast route: it covers some very pretty (if not spectacular) country, and passes by some interesting towns and cities along the way (Kalmar, Vastervik, Soderkoping -- as well as Ystad and Stockholm).
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