The cups on my (threaded) headset recently became loose (i.e. you could remove them by hand). The LBS diagnosed that the headset had splayed slightly, presumably to an oval shape, as the main force is fore-aft.
They fitted a new headset using special glue (i think the Park website supports this), and all was fine. However, when I wore out the headset (in a 'normal' way), the shop were reluctant to use the glue bodge again, and recommended the tube be fixed properly. They were unclear on what this would involve, partly as it is a titanium frame which I think they were wary of.
the frame is a Raleigh Dynatech (1995?) which I believe has titanium main tubes glued into lugs. The headtube is magnetic (unlike the main tubes) so I'm guessing its steel.
So ... can the headtube be 'fixed'? Can it be replaced, and what is likely cost? (I'm very attached to the bike, but accept that sometimes you have to cut your losses!)
Any other tips/info?
Thanks,Matt
Splayed head tube
-
rogerzilla
- Posts: 3124
- Joined: 9 Jun 2008, 8:06pm
Sometimes using a longer headset with more insertion works on a flared headtube.
Something like this perhaps
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?PartnerID=79&ModelID=13392
This would mean swapping to an Ahead type, but better than scrapping the frame
Bit confused when you say wore out the headset, surely the bearings could have been replaced or did the cup surfaces wear?
Something like this perhaps
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?PartnerID=79&ModelID=13392
This would mean swapping to an Ahead type, but better than scrapping the frame
Bit confused when you say wore out the headset, surely the bearings could have been replaced or did the cup surfaces wear?
Thank you cambsos, for using the keyword 'flared', which is evidently the more common term for this condition!
When I say worn, the headset has a pronounced central notch. So although I haven't had it apart, I'm expecting a notch in both surfaces rather than ball wear. (Anyway, I'll need to address this problem at some point.)
Switching to ahead will involve other costs, I guess. May be the only answer ...
When I say worn, the headset has a pronounced central notch. So although I haven't had it apart, I'm expecting a notch in both surfaces rather than ball wear. (Anyway, I'll need to address this problem at some point.)
Switching to ahead will involve other costs, I guess. May be the only answer ...
-
9494arnold
- Posts: 1208
- Joined: 21 Jan 2007, 3:13pm
Headset
Have no experience of alloy frames but had similar problem on a "welded" (IE Lugless) Higgins Trike which was cured at the suggestion of a racing mechanic by use of a Shimano 105 headset which had a spring on the outer faces of the journals which fit in the frame. I would be cautious about the integrity of the frame though,I understand alloy and composites only have a limited shelf life.
PA
PA
- ferrit worrier
- Posts: 5506
- Joined: 27 Jun 2008, 7:58pm
- Location: south Manchester