Touting Barra, Uist's and Skye - Advice please

[marionheck]

Hi there,

Am riding up through Bara, across to South Uistand up through north Usit, then getting the boat to Skye and then back down to Oban. We only have 5 days so don’t think I can stretch to Lewis and all the way back down – will leave that for another time.

Questions:

Are there any bits that should not be missed?
Any really good beaches to camp on that should not be missed?
Anything that should not be missed?
Decent pubs / café along the way?

Really just asking advise form people who have cycled this route or been there.

Many thanks

Dave

[al_yrpal]

Get a Cal Mac Hopscotch ticket, you will save £'s. In that time no time for dallying.

Stone Circles not to be missed.

Stornaway Fishermans co-operative is wonderful, and the Fish and Chips in Malaig (on the chippy with a balcony) were some of the best I have ever tasted.

The views are amazing

Al

[BARRACH]

I am prejudiced (thus my user name) but I would advise cyling over the causeway to Vatersay on Barra and also I would not miss out seeing the plane landing on the beach. Both would be diversions but worth it imho.

[arc]

Can you let me know how you go? My wife and I are doing a very similar route (including Coll and Tiree) in early July.

[AndyB]

We did just that over Easter. Essentially 8 days, with one completely non-cycling, but this was on a tandem with a youngster, so limited time in the saddle each day. Doing it in 5 will be no problem, but will limit your sightseeing. There were some good recommendations on this topic.

[Cygnetory]

Any really good beaches to camp on that should not be missed?

We last toured the Outer Hebrides 5 years ago, so may not be completely up to date, but found this lovely spot near Eoligarry in the north of Barra. There is a loo block and water tap close by. We were fortunate enough to watch the corncrake near the graveyard at Eoligarry, where Compton Mackenzie is buried. At that time, it was preferable to the camp area near the airport at Traigh Mor which seemed to be just a campervan car park.

There is a small beautiful bay on Vatersay facing Castlebay - keep going to the end of the road past Uidh, through the gate. Plenty of mussels in the rocks on the east end of the bay. Most campervans head for the beach near the community centre so this is usually quiet.

We can recommend camping at Howmore Gatliff Hostel, South Uist, where you have the use of the facilities (showers, kitchen, stove) and can listen to the snipe drumming. We have also camped above a wonderful beach on North Uist, access off the road to Berneray, by a track down to the cemetery.
I think camping on Berneray is now restricted to the Gatliff Hostel, but it is by another beautiful beach.

There are so many beautiful beaches, you will be spoilt for choice.

[stronglanguage]

Definitely go to Vatersay - we wish we'd camped there. There won't be a lot of places to stop for food or anything else, so I'd say stop every chance you get, especially at the little cafes and history museum places. If the wind is against you, you'll be amazed at how few miles you can do, so make conservative plans and then go farther if it turns out you can. It's an amazing place to cycle, so have a great time!

[Gearoidmuar]

I rode from Tarbert on Harris down to Lochboisdale on South Uist, first going to west coast of Harris. I ignored the advice about going south to north. Big mistake. I was into what I can only call an iron wind the whole way. It's well worth seeing. You should be going in the right direction anyway!

[Les Reay]

This all reminds me of a great tour I did there last year. The Oban - Barra ferry arrived at about 8.00 pm and there was time to cycle over the causeway to Vatersay and set up tent in a 'free campsite' with water and a toilet, on the east side.
Yes, the hostel at Howmore on South Uist is a good place to stay - a bit shabby but adequate for ten pounds.
There is another 'official' wild campsite on the coast about ten miles from the ferry terminal at Leverburgh on Harris, heading clockwise, but it's a pity to miss out on the beautiful meandering coastal route round the south-east corner.
Another highlight was the route down the west side of Lewis, south-west of Callanish, but you'll need more time for that.
I also caught a northerly wind which blew for four days unabated, but as the locals pointed out, these winds normally don't bring (much) rain.

[enigmatic]

Unless things have changed, try to avoid being on the Outer Hebrides on Sunday, refreshments can be difficult to find!

[bodach]

Beware. Free camping may not be so free and easy in the Hebrides this year as before.Road Equivalent Tarrif has reduced ferry fares drastically.Last year this produced what can only be described as an infestation of camper vans. Many of those are downright antisocial in their behaviour.(I have a camper van myself).This has produced an adverse reaction from local communities which may extend to tents also. For example Tiree now restricts numbers allowed to land on Tiree and charges £10 per night for parking due to the damage caused by a minority. Vatersay charges now for motorhomes and perhaps for tents. The area at the airport on Barra has been closed to motorhomes due to pressure of numbers apparently.I have not been there for a couple of years now but the toilets at Eoligarry looked pretty parlous the last time I was there. They may well be closed now.I do not live in an area affected by RET but last year had camper vans in our residential street blocking parking for those who live here.If they are back this year there will be certainly nasty confrontations when they are told to go forth and procreate.I have not been to Lewis for a longer period but the problem with camper vans is there also and may rebound on those with tents.

[BARRACH]

I can only reiterate what the the last poster says but luckily according the their website www.Isleofbarra.com (look under "accommodation") the backlash appears to be restricted to motorhomes only. I would however urge all cyclist to camp discreetly (which I am sure most do) in the Outer Hebrides. Visiting these islands seems to have suddenly become the in-place which as the last poster has emphasised, has unfortunately led to the minority causing problems for the rest. Hopefully given time, visitor numbers will even out and life will return to normal numbers, once the crowds move on the next "in" destination. There was a very telling photo in one of the motorhome magazines, of a motorhome parked on the septic tank of a Vatersay resident!!! Do not however be put off. Seeing these islands from the saddle, and I am sure Bodach will agree with me, is better by far, than sitting in a motorhome even though its raining and windy!! Enjoy and give the locals a friendly wave when they pass in their cars!

[Les Reay]

I've never understood why the authorities invest so much in encouraging motor homes etc. to visit these more remote areas. Apart from the environmental damage and unsuitability for single-track roads, these visitors are completely self-sufficient and may contribute very little to the local economy. Cyclists, on the other hand, depend very much on buying from local businesses. It seems that the tourist industry has never understood the potential of cycle tourism in these areas.

[bodach]

Barrach is right to say that there is probably no problem with cyclists camping.Just use common sense and smile first and ask permission if possible.People appreciate being asked and are usually more helpful this way. I used to operate a policy of always saying yes if asked but but not cooperating if not approached. Not very nice perhaps but pressure of numbers can get to you sometimes.You will find that people are friendly and those working in gardens etc will wave to you and others on foot will greet you. Always be ready with a return greeting.The only exception to this was Berneray where I was completely ignored on several occasions.Strange place!Great place to cycle if you have the wind with you.Can be hard otherwise and be prepared to sit out the occasional really mucky day.

[Richard Barrett]

Comments about having difficulty finding food and drink on the Outer Hebrides on Sundays are rubbish. Shops may not be open but hotels and many pubs are open even in Lewis where there is a gradually diminishing hardcore of Sabbath observers.

Under Scottish Access law you can actually camp anywhere as long as there are less than 6 of you, you move on after a couple of nights - and you DON'T have a motoried vehicle. So these motorhomes should not be there unless they are on an official registered site which is frequently not the case. The local police need to enforce the law and prosecute a few. Last year, there was 30-40 lined up behind the beach where the plane lands at Barra - said to be nicking water from toilet in the airport buildings and emptying sewage into the sea.

They need to be paying £20 or £30 a night per vehicle in order to give something to the local economy - who in turn ought to be building proper sites to accommodate them - preferably out of the way somewhere rather than all across the machir like they do at Horgabost in Harris. Sounds like the locals are actually taking action though which has to be good.