Pictures of your bike(s)

[AlbionLass]

My latest build. 1994 Mercian Pro-Lugless, re-enamelled this year by Mercian. All new parts.
Campagnolo Centaur, DT Swiss R460 rims onto Bitex hubs with Sapim spokes. Continental GP5000 tyres, Tubolito tubes, Deda finishing kit, Deda Loop bar tape, Fizik Tempo Argo saddle, KMC gold chain, Look Keo Classic pedals

The pedals aren't parallel to the cranks

Must try harder, otherwise OK!!

There's a level of attention to detail even I can't quite be bothered with.

[bikes4two]

> My Trek Madone has had little to no use over the past few years due to health issues but given the current 2nd hand market of such bikes I just couldn't bear to part with it.
> Other bikes I have, more sedate rides, are powered by TSDZ2 mid drive motor kits (and great they are too) but due to the Trek's carbon frame it is not possible to fit a mid drive.
> A friend loaned me his Swytch bike conversion and I liked the feel of the front hub motor but not the Swytch kit in general but I had noticed that other previous Swytch owners would now and again put up the wheel and hub for sale and it was one of these I bought on an ebay auction for £58 (they normally sell for the £100+ mark - lucky me)
> The goal then was to convert the Trek to an 'e-Trek' but as discreetly as possible, not because I was embarrassed or anything like that but I just don't like the look of some e-bike conversions you see around.
> The pics below then, show my humble efforts in this respect. The 8Ah soft case battery is held in the Rock Bros seat pack and the electronics (aka controller) are, along with the tools, in the top tube frame pack (again a Rock Bros product).
> The PAS sensor is descreetly located inside the inner chain ring using a 3d printed adapter to hold the magnets in place and the sensor itself is only visible from the underside of the bike.
> The handlebar display is the smallest I could find and sits behind the handle bars/adjactent to the stem.
> There's no making the interconnecting wiring 'invisible' of course but there you go, and outside a cafe the other day a fellow cyclist asked if it was a dynamo in the front wheel - job on discreteness achieved then 
> Oh and the ride - I've only tried it up to PAS=3 (of 5 levels) but have on the only two decent rides I've had so far, only used PAS=1 which is sufficient for my needs and has most importantly got the Trek back into useful service.
> I carefully manage and measure power consumption and the 8Ah battery will easily help me to ride a 100k, and in fact the lightness of the bike compared to my other bikes, see power consumption levels of around half that of the TSDZ2 machines (2.5 to 3 Wh/mile vs 6-7Wh/mile for those who understand these parameters?).
> Costs: I already had the battery which are around £150 depending on country of supply whilst the wheel/motor plus electronics and associated cabling was in the order of £110. The two Rock Bros bags came to around £35. I did initially use existing bags mounting the electronics in a bottle cage tool holder and the battery in a handlebar bag, but the Rock Bros bags were more aesthetically pleasing for me.

[roubaixtuesday]

Whyte MTB in it's natural habitat on the commute this morning

[Cowsham]

> My Trek Madone....

Nice job -- well done.

[deliquium]

View from the saddle - on the way home, in the valley below

[colin54]

Early 90's Alves framed bike (fitted with my Bob Jackson's old forks) next to a floating Aquavit Palace at Liverpool docks last week.

I think at one time Alves (Charles Ralph) was the northernmost frame builder in the British Isles (near Elgin, Moray).
Another example of his craft in an article here :-
https://www.twobiscuits.at/bikes/4172/
Picture added, I spent a good bit of the weekend replacing the down-tube levers with
handlebar mounted levers and fitting mudguards with the brackets on the outside-the tyre clearance is a bit tight even with 28mm tyres. This is a quick steering bike, I found it quite tricky to hold a line whilst changing with d/t levers. The result of my labours is that I've managed to introduce some ghost shifting / jumping under load to a previous good change, I crossed the gear cables over under the down-tube, I wonder if perhaps the tension on the front derailleur cable is altering the indexing at the rear slightly, or maybe hanging up on the brazed on cable guides under the bottom bracket. A case of 'if it ain't broke, fix it until it is'.
I see I've fitted the rear reflector the wrong way up as well.

[Rob112]

My new to be carrera

[peetee]

I crossed the gear cables over under the down-tube, I wonder if perhaps the tension on the front derailleur cable is altering the indexing at the rear slightly, or maybe hanging up on the brazed on cable guides under the bottom bracket.

Definitely something not right on that photo. A straight cable shouldn’t close-up to a straight tube midway along its length.
Do the two guide channels on the bb sit at the same height? Sometimes they don’t which can help out when crossing the cables but only if you cross them the correct way.

[colin54]

Definitely something not right on that photo. A straight cable shouldn’t close-up to a straight tube midway along its length.
Do the two guide channels on the bb sit at the same height? Sometimes they don’t which can help out when crossing the cables but only if you cross them the correct way.

Thanks for the thoughtful reply peetee.
Both cable guides are at the same height. I crossed the cables to get a more natural outer cable run from the bars . The rear derailleur cable is the one most adjacent to the downtube, only because I connected up the RD first, not due to any careful thought or knowledge on my part . It all works perfecto now but I can't recall how I fixed it (age ). I don't think I'd repeat the experiment on a bike with decent paint as the cable rubs quite hard against the frame when under tension.
I'm not a fan of those brazed-on cable guides as they eventually collect enough muck to mess up the shifting even with decent mudguards and 'flaps.

This bike also has the most toe-overlap on any of the bikes I've ever ridden ( even with it's original forks), and I have quite petite feet, it's no good on any low speed steery off-road - roots /rocks etc, I've even been hampered turning from a road junction. I really have to be mindful of where the cranks are relative to the front wheel when manoeuvring at walking pace; but otherwise I like it's quick steering/handling - no low speed wheel flop which I can't abide.
This bike was a proper example of Caveat Emptor when buying at a distance on-line, I've had to replace virtually every component on it to get it to how I like.

[djnotts]

My '97 Kileaua with new skinny tyres and 'grds, ready to be my winter road bike (once I've taken the hscksaw to the stays). Pretty light as all-steel and full guards go.

[djnotts]

And at the other extreme, bought a full carbon, full suspension, toy. Short test run confirms rubbled and pot holed roads no longer beat the heck out of my arthritic hands and fingers. Got to figure out the complex sus settings! Be great for hard winter tow paths and bridleways.

[Morzedec]

This thread is getting rather 'thin', so I thought to add to it.

1980 Raleigh Clubman in France during summer 2025 - my 'light tourer', still going strong after 45 years.

[Cowsham]

45 years ! That's proper reduce reuse re-"cycle" principles in action.

[Bmblbzzz]

This thread is getting rather 'thin', so I thought to add to it.

1980 Raleigh Clubman in France during summer 2025 - my 'light tourer', still going strong after 45 years.

You're also looking rather thin in that photo, if you don't mind my saying so. And with your height, you really need a larger frame; you might have to get one custom made....

[Morzedec]

Oh Har! How dare you make fun of my weight! I shall complain - if I am disadvantaged, there is bound to be an acronym that fits these days.

Seriously, how I wish that there was more irony on this Forum these days - if only because you are obviously jealous of my slim figure.

Happy Days.