Cycling UK Forum

Hi

Sorry if this is a bit basic to most but Ive only just started cycling and time has come to change my chain. I want to do it myself rather than taking it to a shop.

My bike is a Carrera One Subway hybrid, 21 speed and according to the technical blurb the current chain is a SUNTOUR CW-XCT 42/32/22T (no idea what that is - but thats what it says it is).

Ive watched a few You Tube Vids and apart from most of them contradicting themselves I have a few questions.

- I need a cheapish chain link extractor for a about £10 - 15. Wiggle have a few - any suggestions?

- When I take the old chain off by pushing out the 'link thing', do I need to keep this to join my new chain up or do I need to buy a new 'link thing'?

- When you take out the link can it be put back in again - say for taking the chain off to clean it? Does it just click in & click out (using the tool)

- Any suggestions as to what to replace my chain with? Ive noted that there are about 17 trillion different types & all I want is a basic chain to put on my basic bike that I use most days, cycling about 20 - 30 mile a day. Realistically I want it from Wiggle as well.

Thanks in advance

Steve

Chain tools - I would get one that can adjust a tight link (though maybe its less important now that most chains are rejoined with a "missing link" device). This is a decent one:
http://www.ctcshop.org.uk/cycling/p/CTC ... 410395818/

Chains - any basic 7/8 speed chain from the likes of SRAM or KMC will be fine. Wiggle/CTC shop seem to do he more expensive models, but these are worth a look:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=25424
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=21295
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... delID=5151

Ahh... The joys of replaceing chains, first I would say why does it need replaceing? Although I also understand the reason of just wanting to . From the sounds of it it's not an amazingly high quality bike but, what speed is it on the rear changer, you will want to get a chain that works for this speed as they are different widths. You will either want an SRAM or Shimano chain, I use Shimano but it's an endless argument, although I have used a cheap taya chain on my mums bike and 2 or 3 years later with light use it's still going. The chances are that the current chain has a 'quick link' which means that you wont need to use a chain tool. The Sram chains use a quick link and the shimano ones use a special connecting pin, I didn't have much success with the pin so used a sram quick link instead.

Hope all that makes sense...

If it is a 21 speed bike with a triple chainset at the front then this implies you
will have 7 sprockets at the rear therefore you need a 7 speed chain.
Wiggle have a choice of two Shimano 7 speed chains. Either will probably be OK
sounds like you currently have a Suntour chain. If you say what make the gears
are then I am sure someone will be able to confirm.

As for the chain tool I have been using a cheap one for years with this type of
chain and had no problems. The sub £15 range should be OK. I didn't know you
could spend more on a chaintool than a bike until now!
With my 7 speed bike and Shimano chains I have never used a special link
to rejoin the chain. Simply use the tool to push any roller though just as far
as you need to in order to separate the chain. Then use it to push it back in again
from the other side. If you go too far the roller may fall out and you will have to
shorten the chain. So the best way is to learn with the old chain that you are
going to dump! It is not a difficult thing to master. You might need to take a
few links out the new chain to make it the same length as the old one,
if your rear derailleur is goes to high when the chain is on a small sprocket.
It is better to start too long and take bits out. Lengthening a chain is harder.

Landy Mann wrote:Ahh... The joys of replaceing chains, first I would say why does it need replaceing? Although I also understand the reason of just wanting to . From the sounds of it it's not an amazingly high quality bike but, what speed is it on the rear changer, you will want to get a chain that works for this speed as they are different widths. You will either want an SRAM or Shimano chain, I use Shimano but it's an endless argument, although I have used a cheap taya chain on my mums bike and 2 or 3 years later with light use it's still going. The chances are that the current chain has a 'quick link' which means that you wont need to use a chain tool. The Sram chains use a quick link and the shimano ones use a special connecting pin, I didn't have much success with the pin so used a sram quick link instead.

Hope all that makes sense...

I'm changing it because it probably needs it, its 4.5 mth old, has done about 3000miles and I think its waering the front & back teeth. (Ive ordered a chain gauge)

Speed on the rear changer? It say on the derailleur x4 SRAM ..is that what you mean. There's seven cogs if thats any help!

Icant see any quick links ..all the links look the same tbh

You can use any 7/8 speed chain.
Shimano require you to reconnect the chain with a NEW connecting pin each time the chain is broken. Do not push the old pin back in, it can, and probably will fail at a later stage, and sods law says it will be at the most inconvenient moment.
Connecting pins are quite expensive IMHO for what they are, about £3-£4 for a pack of three. If you plan on removing your chain on a regular basis for cleaning, a cheaper and more convenient option might be to buy a SRAM chain that comes with the convenient powerlink. I've recently bought a SRAM PC 870 8 spd chain to use on my 7spd bike. The powerlinks are apparently easily removable just by using your fingers. Despite spending over an hour trying to undo one, I can't do it no matter how much I try, perhaps I've got a tight one. Anyhow I purchased the Park Tools Master Link Pliers which makes the job a breeze and takes all of a second to do.

That's important advice for Shimano chains. Read and follow the instructions that come with the rivets and the chains. If you decide to disconnect the chain for cleaning or whatever, and intend to then rejoin it, you must NOT take out the rivet that you joined it with. They are diffeent colours on different chain widths, and also have a diffent "head" profile from the joining process, so they're failry easy to identify and avoid.

Park do a nice chain tool which is good enough for the garage and small enough to pack on tour.
http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/38 ... -tool.html

SRAM chains have the 'quick connector' link so you don't have to worry about riveting the chain back together. Just take out the right number of links to start with then use the quick link to make the final join. Simples!

Mind you, if you've done 3k miles on the original chain then don't be surprised if the rear sprockets are worn and the new chain jumps on some of them. If so, persevere for a few miles then if it doesn't get any better you'll need a new cassette as well

I used to struggle with a sram chain connecting link but find that if you squeeze the midddle of the link it frees it up and comes off easily.

enigmatic wrote:Park do a nice chain tool which is good enough for the garage and small enough to pack on tour.
http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/38 ... -tool.html

SRAM chains have the 'quick connector' link so you don't have to worry about riveting the chain back together. Just take out the right number of links to start with then use the quick link to make the final join. Simples!

Mind you, if you've done 3k miles on the original chain then don't be surprised if the rear sprockets are worn and the new chain jumps on some of them. If so, persevere for a few miles then if it doesn't get any better you'll need a new cassette as well

Hi ...Well i got park tool & a SRAM 7 Spd chain and fitted it without a hitch.

However, this morning as soon as I set off to work the chain seems "slip" or "jump", especially on the smaller cog (rear). Its obviously is worse when I power off from a junction or at speed in the small cog. The bigger cogs seem okayish and it doesn’t seem to matter what gear I'm in at the front.

Does it look like Ive worn down my cassette?

The current one I have is 7 speed SRAM and the with 32 teeth and I think 14 on the smaller one (its hard to count them!).

If I do need one any suggestions where from etc

Yep, sounds as if the sprockets are worn, it's always the smaller ones which go first, especially if they're the ones you use most. The only other possibility (as you say it's just the smallest sprocket) is that you've not taken enough links out of the new chain, so it's worth checking for a slack chain in small cog/small ring for starters. If you need new sprockets then just google 7 speed cassette and you should find what you want. Just make sure the cassette is the same make as the one you have already as Shimano and Campag freehub splines are different. I think SRAM matches Shimano so if so you could use either SRAM or Shimano cassettes.

Might be worth buying a Park chain checker whilst you're about it, then you can measure the chain wear and know when to replace the chain next time, hopefuuly before the sprockets are too worn to take the new chain.

Good job done!

If I do need one any suggestions where from etc

I think Chain Reaction is probably one of the cheapest places and they have a great selection.

You might get a bit more life out of your cassette with careful use, i.e. when you pull away, use your larger sprockets and use your gears to take the strain, kinder on your knees too.

SRAM and Shimano 7 speed cassettes are available from Chain Reaction Cycles for £15. They do free delivery and are pretty quick.