songsforpolarbears wrote:Photo of the front light (B&M Lumotec Lyt Senso Plus) showing connections:
DSCN2619.jpg
Photo of rear light (B&M D' Toplight Plus) showing connections:
DSCN2609.jpg
Info. I have found on the front light packaging:
DSCN2612.jpg
This ^ package did indeed contain one cable only (of 60cm).
Info. I have found on the rear light packaging:
DSCN2617.jpg
OK, in my case the front light was a B&M Cyo RT. I really don't remember which one came with the rear cable now as all came at once in a large box. My rear is a Toplight Plus senso multi. The UK shops might sell the rear cable. Have you looked at SPA's web site?
I too have been thinking of ordering dynamo lighting parts from Germany as they are so much cheaper. However, if I buy a schmidt delux hub in Germany, will I have any difficulty getting my LBS to build a wheel from it? Just not sure if that is the done thing.
I was thinking of buying hub and lights, etc from either bike-components.de or poison-bikes.de. They seem to offer the best prices at present. Anyone got any experience of using either of these?
Planned shopping list: schmidt SON delux 36 hole (will be getting that built into a 700c wheel) lumotec cyo rn or r senso toplight line plus
Why not buy a whole wheel from the German websites?
It is funny that we feel that cycle shops dont actually want ANY of our custom (if they cant have it all) so we have to buy everything from Germany instead of doing half there half here.
meic wrote:Why not buy a whole wheel from the German websites?
It is funny that we feel that cycle shops dont actually want ANY of our custom (if they cant have it all) so we have to buy everything from Germany instead of doing half there half here.
To be fair it's often the importing agents who are the problem. If your LBS wants to supply you with officially imported parts they have work within what the agents want to supply and the prices they want to charge. The manufacturers only want to deal with 1 large entity in each coumtry (e.g. Madison are the Shimano agents in the UK). These agents want to maximise their profits and operate accordingly with the manufacturer's help. Bike24 won't supply Specialized components outside of Germany presumably because they'll lose their supply if they tread on the UK agents toes. In my experience in the UK Shimano (Madison) and B&M (Amba) prices seem to be higher before they get to your LBS - not hard to guess where the margin goes. Not only that the agent decides what gets imported - the latest Shimano hub dynamo (DH-3N80) was around for a while before Madison would supply it, if I was unkind I might think it was because they wanted to shift their old stock before importingthe new.
meic wrote:Why not buy a whole wheel from the German websites?
It is funny that we feel that cycle shops dont actually want ANY of our custom (if they cant have it all) so we have to buy everything from Germany instead of doing half there half here.
Sorry, to pick up your point properly. In my experience a good LBS will do the mix and match approach. When I wanted a new dynohub wheel and didn't have time to build it myself I tried to get the DH-3N80 and wheelbuild from my LBS (Cheltenham Cycles) - it wasn't in Madison's catalogue, they phoned them to check, they said they couldn't (wouldn't?) supply one so my LBS said get one from Germany and we'll build it for you.
I've just seen that Spa Cycles are selling a Son 20r for £153, which is about what I'll end up paying for a Son Delux from Germany. Is there ANY difference between a 20r and the delux, or is it literally just a name change?
pachmarhi wrote:I've just seen that Spa Cycles are selling a Son 20r for £153, which is about what I'll end up paying for a Son Delux from Germany. Is there ANY difference between a 20r and the delux, or is it literally just a name change?
MartinC wrote:Sorry, to pick up your point properly. In my experience a good LBS will do the mix and match approach. When I wanted a new dynohub wheel and didn't have time to build it myself I tried to get the DH-3N80 and wheelbuild from my LBS (Cheltenham Cycles) - it wasn't in Madison's catalogue, they phoned them to check, they said they couldn't (wouldn't?) supply one so my LBS said get one from Germany and we'll build it for you.
I've had similar with a shop that couldn't get the part, but were happy for me to mail order it from On-One and they would build the wheel. For many bike shops they make a small margin on sales, but repairs/building is pure profit, so many are happy with the compromise (the ones that aren't generally have to hire in people to build things).
If I had a baby elephant, I would put it on a recumbent trike so that it would become invisible.
I'm working on sorting out that rear cable I need.
Can anyone tell me the size of the spade connectors (for B&M lights). I think it is 3mm.
Also, can anyone give me a ball park figure for the length of cable I will need from front light to rear light (on the end on my pannier rack).
Just thought - I could run a bit of string from front light to rear light to give me an idea of the length needed.
My front wheel and front light are up and running. (Still using battery operated rear light). Loving the front wheel (which seems to roll a lot better than my previous wheel) and the front light.
songsforpolarbears wrote:I'm working on sorting out that rear cable I need.
Can anyone tell me the size of the spade connectors (for B&M lights). I think it is 3mm.
Also, can anyone give me a ball park figure for the length of cable I will need from front light to rear light (on the end on my pannier rack).
Just thought - I could run a bit of string from front light to rear light to give me an idea of the length needed.
My front wheel and front light are up and running. (Still using battery operated rear light). Loving the front wheel (which seems to roll a lot better than my previous wheel) and the front light.
Length wise best thing is to measure your bike with a string as you say and add an error margin. Mine is already installed so I can't give you exact numbers. Your bike might be shorter/longer.
Just did my waterproofing with shrink wraps, so still remember the cable spec.!!! The cable measures (e-werk) Metal wire inside = 1mm Insulation outside = 3mm
As for connectors not sure. I guess you can again measure your connection pins on the rear light and target for a spade connector size based on that.
have been running a shimano 3n72 hub with cyo iq frontlight pure dead brilliant light actually enjoy night rides now light is so bright that i keep thinking theres a car behind me ,light has a stand by also a setting which when on if riding through a dark area light gets brighter then dims when coming out of dark .only wee problem switches on light wee bit fiddly there are three settings on light itself slightly awkward with gloves on apart from that wow?? bike is so heavy anyway that I dont really notice drag.A cycling companion who has competed in a lot of long distance events prefers the use of a good quality bottle dynamo on the understanding that if you come a cropper and damage your front wheel you dont loose your lighting system as well
On my commuter I have been using a Shimano DN30 hub dynamo, B&M IQ Cyo with sensor and near-field light and B&M rear toplight+ for two winters now. I put the switch on S, and never touch it. All is double wired using the B&M supplied cables. Thoroughly recommended. No problems at all.
My wife has a similar setup except she has a battery rear light. I noticed recently that her headlamp is noticeably brighter than mine, which is not too surprising but worth noting. I checked before setting that up, and it within the recommended maximum voltage (0.5A through 15 ohms =7.5V, compared with 0.5A with a rear light which takes the other 0.1A).
In answer to the query about cable: yes the cable for the rear light always comes with the front light, not the rear.
songsforpolarbears wrote:I have B&M lights front and back.
My front light has 3 options. Or so i think.
I = Light always on
0 = Light always off
S = Senso (light comes on in dim light)
However, whatever I select (I, 0 or S), the lights are always on.
Any idea what I'm doing wrong?
Thanks!
The current and earth are probably wired the wrong way.
Alternatively, with my IQ Fly, the switch only works if you use the built-in wire to connect it to the hub; if you use the spade connectors it is bypassed.
