Cycling UK Forum

As you can not reuse the spokes (they will be the wrong length for the new hub) and rims are a consumable item. I would not invest in the extra work of dismantling your existing wheel.
Either buy one ready made or build an entire new wheel and keep your existing one as a spare and to use while you are getting the new one right.

meic wrote:As you can not reuse the spokes (they will be the wrong length for the new hub) and rims are a consumable item. I would not invest in the extra work of dismantling your existing wheel.
Either buy one ready made or build an entire new wheel and keep your existing one as a spare and to use while you are getting the new one right.

I didn't know about the spoke length. Thanks very much - very useful.

I think I'll buy one ready made (not quite ready for wheel building, one step at a time) and yeh, I can keep my current one for spare/summer.

People had good experiences buying whole ready built wheels from Europe?

julk wrote:I use a Supernova E3 non dazzle or a Solidlights XB2 front light driven from a SON dynohub.
Either light is excellent, but the non dazzle is a lot better for use on tarmac or in traffic.

Oh? I have the original Solidlights (never could justify the cost of the upgrade and they no longer do them) which have been great for the last 5(?) years. I have thought that possibly I should consider a change for another set of lights. Nice to see that the novas seem to be getting all the plaudits.

belgiangoth wrote:I have the original Solidlights (never could justify the cost of the upgrade and they no longer do them) which have been great for the last 5(?) years.

It's not that difficult to upgrade the Solidlight yourself
http://yacf.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=12263.0

It's probably worth looking into alternative LEDs to those in the original post. Current brightest are Cree XP-G R5, but you would have to look for matching 20mm round lenses.

songsforpolarbears wrote:I think I'll buy one ready made (not quite ready for wheel building, one step at a time) and yeh, I can keep my current one for spare/summer.

People had good experiences buying whole ready built wheels from Europe?

excellent experiece with rose
www.rose.de

My wife and I both have Edeluxes, and Schmidt hubs. One bike has a SON 28, the other a SON 20. The differences in light output are minimal, even at very low speed. The difference in resistance is obvious, however. With modern led lights, there is no reason to go for the SON 28 anymore, unless you want to run two headlights in series.
Willem

willem jongman wrote:My wife and I both have Edeluxes, and Schmidt hubs. One bike has a SON 28, the other a SON 20. The differences in light output are minimal, even at very low speed. The difference in resistance is obvious, however. With modern led lights, there is no reason to go for the SON 28 anymore, unless you want to run two headlights in series.
Willem

Willem
This seems to be the consensus. Thanks for confirming this.

I have found, after much searching and gnashing of teeth, a page on Shimano's site, that lists all their hub dynamo products. It is, as you can imagine, illuminating...
BTW, an earlier poster suggested that Shimano hub dynamos with a '2' in the model number have the potential to output 2 watts. This appears to be more-or-less the case - Shimano quote 2.4 watts, and means effectively that '2' models are good for front light only, whereas '3' models will power front and rear, or more powerful front only lights.

Here is a 'tiny url' for it. http://tiny.cc/1z9xi I have tested this link, and today, it worked, however I don't know how long it'll carry on working as I'm not an expert at tiny-url-ness...

For those of you who don't know what a tiny url is, the tiny url web site takes any great big long corporate web address you feed into it & converts it into a, yes, you guessed it, a tiny url. Here is a link to the Tiny URL web site. http://tiny.cc/

simonineaston wrote:For those of you who don't know what a tiny url is, the tiny url web site takes any great big long corporate web address you feed into it & converts it into a, yes, you guessed it, a tiny url. Here is a link to the Tiny URL web site. http://tiny.cc/

Alternative URL shorteners exist...

You dont have to bother, just paste in the big one and the forum software automatically makes it tiny.

Any Facebook users may like to know that Rose.de will give a 10 euro voucher if you become their friend BUT you have to let them have access to your personal details of some sort for it to go ahead.
I think they are copying your address book for advertising purposes, just as Facebook did when you signed up?

On top of that I havent quite been able to make my voucher work yet either, still trying.

Got your stuff yet, ersakus?

Which site did you buy from for the lights?

I have the wheel with SON delux. Still waiting for the lights and ewerk set from Star bike/Germany. Should arrive today and will report back once all are in action.

Just recieved my lights and did a few miles tonight. I am impressed. All positive so far. The hub doesn't feel heavy, I don't feel the drag either. ( I have studded tyre at the back today which introduces much more drag!)
The output is much higher and useful than my cateye single shot. Basically it throws a rectangular (literally) beam that extends from the pavement edge to the middle of the road. The plastic feeling is not great but then I would not want expensive looking gadgets on the bike anyway. Only thing is that I have to stop the lights manually when I stop as an anti theft measure which is annoying (not fault of the system though). Otherwise it is fully automatic if you don't mind turning off. It turns off after a few minutes if the bike stays stationary. I like the auto hi/low beam feature as well. In terms of usability this seems like a great setup. We will see how it goes in the long term..

Sounds great, ersakus!

Anyone know why B&M don't offer automatic startup AND condenser standlight?

Maybe it cannot be (technologically) done?

I got this information from the B&M catalogue:

I dont KNOW but it is probably because the dynamo will let the light know that your bike is moving anyway, so you dont need a sensor. The sensing ability for detecting light and dark will often be done by the front light and normally (at least with those sorts of front light) the wires for the back light come from the front light.

Or another way of looking at it is that you need a battery for automatic and if you already have a battery, you dont need a condensor.