Drop handlebars and V-brakes

[ricardolamos]

I would like to put drop bars on a MTB and use Ergopower type levers/changers however I am aware these brake levers don't tend to pull enough cable for V-brakes.

Are there any brake/lever combo's that do work or clever ways to make the combo operate?

[Si]

My bike had shimano STI (sora) levers mated to "Travel-Agents".
The Travel-Agent has a little pulley in it to make it pull more cable but with less power.

My views on them:
Easy to set up.
The ones with the inline adjuster are best.
Powerful but the modulation isn't brilliant, especially in the wet: at first when you use them you pull the lever and panic as nothing happens, so you continue pulling and suddenly, WHAMO, the pads grip really powerfully bringing you to a swift halt. It's a bit unsettling at first but you get used to it.
I had them fitted as suggested on the instruction: in place of the noodle, but fitting them nearer the brake leaver makes them work better.

As alternatives you could try using Mini-V brakes. These work with drop bar levers but may cause you tyre clearance problems on an MTB, or mudguard clearance probs on a road bike.

Also, if you are prepared not to have integrated brake/gear units then use 287v levers, which are drop bar levers that pull more or less enough cable for V brakes.

[Paul Smith SRCC]

As well as the Travel Agent that Si mentioned you of course fit normal Cantilevers or Avid Shorties

Paul Smith
www.bikeplus.co.uk

[ricardolamos]

Paul

Can you recommend a good cantilever brake that is currently available or available second hand?

thanks

Richard

[Paul Smith SRCC]

Shimano make two versions, the Altus and R550 (1st and second pic's below), Avid (last pic) are also worth considering, quite likely that your LBS will not have them from stock, often only the specialist retailers will normally list them.

They are still available so they should be able to order any of those in for you as they will have an account for Shimano, Avid are distributed by Fishers http://www.fisheroutdoor.co.uk/public/index.html who most retailers also deal with.





Paul Smith
www.bikeplus.co.uk

[PW]

Those are low profile cantis. They don't work well with road brake levers. The old trick with them was to push the pads as far towards the rim as possible & lengthen the straddle cable, effectively turning them into the older "wide profile" type. It takes the mushy feel out of the braking.

[Paul Smith SRCC]

One area that has improved over the last twenty years is brakes, modern dual pivot calipers with modern brake levers are very good, as are V brakes with V Brake levers.

IMO drop bar with any brake lever- V/Cantilever caliper combination will not match the above, they are good enough to use, better than they were, but still a bit of a compromise if you have been using an entirely modern set up.

Incidentally I have just tested a Specialized Tricross, Tektro Oryx cantilevers with Shimano Tiagra STI levers and have to say I was pleasantly suprised,

Paul Smith
www.bikeplus.co.uk

Those are low profile cantis. They don't work well with road brake levers. The old trick with them was to push the pads as far towards the rim as possible & lengthen the straddle cable, effectively turning them into the older "wide profile" type. It takes the mushy feel out of the braking.

[thirdcrank]

One area that has improved over the last twenty years is brakes

Somebody else who grew up with Mafac Racers or Universal sidepulls, I see.

[Paul Smith SRCC]

...and Weinman sidepulls, I never drilled them like Alf Engers though, although confess I did file them down/flatter, I also run the cables as short as I could and cut the ends off the drops down to save weight; I was 15 and copying Andy Sutherland who had come secind in the GHS 10; it enabled me to go under do a 26 minute 10 mile time trial for the first time

Paul Smith
www.bikeplus.co.uk

One area that has improved over the last twenty years is brakes

Somebody else who grew up with Mafac Racers or Universal sidepulls, I see.