Chain link connectors.

[Trigger]

Are they all the same?

Only I've just been doing a bit of hub bearing maintenance and I decided to whip the chain off and give Mick's chain laundry system a go whilst it was off. I use a KMC chain and could I chuff as like undo the connector link, it just wouldn't budge, I ended up splitting it with the tool. Turned a 30 second job into a right ball ache.

I'm wondering in future to try a different make of chain and connector or whether all the quick connectors are more or less the same?

Either that or once it's on leave it on and clean it like I used to with a cloth and white spirit

[meic]

10 speed are different to all others and 9speed are different from all others.
The remaining deraileur chains will all take the same connector to the best of my knowledge.

[Trigger]

I meant whether the actual quick connectors are of the same quality or if some are better than others, as I've only done 200 miles on this one and I couldn't get the damn thing apart with my hands.

[NUKe]

KMC do have a knack to opening as do they all. But if you want an easy life just get a pair of Master link pliers for the job
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... delID=7781
It one of those tools that is not neccessary but you will wonder how you got by without

[Steve Kish]

With my KMC chain, what sometimes happens is that some crud gets caught in the groove on the pin where the plate slides. A quick side-to-side wiggle or (in extreme cases) a bit of lube and a wiggle usually frees this.

Also and FWIW, I still use the same old pop-in KMC links when renewing the chain. The more you open and close it, the easier it seems to become.

[Mark Berry]

.... The more you open and close it, the easier it seems to become.

Thats what I don't like about them! I keep reverting to a good old fashionned one after the first or second removal.

[enigmatic]

I've tried a few and standardised on SRAM Power Links as the most reliable/long lasting. If the link is difficult to undo due to dirt or dry oil then give the link a good soaking in WD40 or degreaser. Also it helps to use a chain holder (bit of bent wire with hooks at each end). Use to connect rollers situated a few links either side of the power link and it will give the power link enough slack/wiggle room. Can't find a link to a commercial one like I've got but here's the sort of thing I'm talking about http://www.nuttycyclist.co.uk/cycling/c ... _chain.htm

[pherron]

I think the bit of wire is probably just as good really but this is commercial tool:
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/icetoolz-icetoolz-foldable-chain-hook-holding-tool-prod17808/

[Trigger]

Helpful as ever, thanks lads.

I did give it a touch of lube and some wiggling, but I couldn't get the damn thing to come apart. It was only after I'd split it and soaked it in white spirit that I managed it.

Can't believe you can get a pair of pliers for it! great, more bike specific tools, just what I need. Not

I think I'll just leave the chain on in future and only remove it when absolutely necessary, I hate faffing with the things at the best of times. Compared to the chain the rear hub bearing replacement was a doddle!

[CREPELLO]

If you've left the chain on for a long time and it's gunked up, liberally douse the quick link in solvent, to help wash away grit and stuff, as it's usually a tight fit and the grit only makes it tighter.

[ChrisButch]

Wipperman Connex links are the easiest to install/remove - but not necessarily the best in other respects.

[Mick F]

Trigger:
Which chain?
What speed?
They are all different, and are all a pain to undo.
Take the chain off the chainrings to take the tension off, and make sure the removable link is on the bottom run.

Push the link together by pushing a link either side of it. It will get your fingers mucky, but persevere and squeeze the sides too. By wriggling and pushing it will compress and fall apart.

Make sure you remove the chain, refit the link, and give it a good shoogling in a tub of oil dispersant. Wash with hot soapy water, rinse thoroughly and it hang up to dry. If it ain't clean enough to eat with, clean it again. The rinsing water should be spotlessly clean.

[Trigger]

Oh don't worry, my hands were well sh1tted up trying to get the damn thing to split, and I'm no weakling.

I was surprised because it's only been on for around 200 miles and if not meticulously cleaned it's been fairly regularly lubed, although I do ride in all weathers and rode through the recent snow/ice.

It's a KMC Mick, not sure of the exact model but it's an 8sp and cost around a tenner or just under, there were rust rings on the inner plates as well

[enigmatic]

It's all in the cleaning, pushing and sliding - more of a caresse than brute force

[Trigger]

It must've had a stubborn bit of dirt trapped somewhere as after it had been shaken around in the white spirit it came apart a treat. Too late then though

On another note, has anyone tried Finish Line KryTech wax lubricant? it's what I've put on after I cleaned it, the stuff seems a bit hit and miss regards application as it's quite thick, I ended up putting some on a clean rag and running the chain through it to try and get a more even coverage. I'll see how it goes.