Shock absorbency for handlebars

janeon · Post by **janeon** » 31 Mar 2007, 12:35pm

I'm looking for ways of reducing the shock I get from my handlebars. After a day of cycling on bad road surfaces I can end up with sore wrists. Any ideas?

Thanks

diapason · Post by **diapason** » 31 Mar 2007, 1:53pm

I've got a very duff right arm and wrist after an RTA. I found drops too painful and fitted butterfly bars which have a lot more 'give' as well as a more upright riding position. Not wonderful, (nothing will ever be pain free) but a definite improvement.

N

georgew · Post by **georgew** » 31 Mar 2007, 3:52pm

I take it these are drops?
I would suggest using Specialized Phat bar tape which does reduce the vibration from the bars.
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.a ... 5360009572

Of course the set-up of your bike plays a large part also so the T/Tube length and the bar height relative to the height of the saddle is important.
If you are using flat bars then I would still use the above tape but with the addition of bar-ends fitted in such a way as to offer you a "on the hoods position" and both grips and bar-ends taped. See below.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b332/ ... CT0384.jpg

reohn2 · Post by **reohn2** » 31 Mar 2007, 4:55pm

georgew wrote:I take it these are drops?
I would suggest using Specialized Phat bar tape which does reduce the vibration from the bars.
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.a ... 5360009572

Of course the set-up of your bike plays a large part also so the T/Tube length and the bar height relative to the height of the saddle is important.
If you are using flat bars then I would still use the above tape but with the addition of bar-ends fitted in such a way as to offer you a "on the hoods position" and both grips and bar-ends taped. See below.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b332/ ... CT0384.jpg

GeorgeW Looked at the photo of the bar tape,do the barend shifters work OK in that position?

Janeon
What is your riding set up,you could be as has already suggested too stretched out or in deed not stretched enough therebye having more body weight resting on the hands causing the problem.
Another problem that I see quite a lot is riders riding with arms straight indicating upper body weight resting on the hands/wrists,the elbows should be slightly bent when sat comfortable on the bike in the riding position and the lower back muscles taking some of the weight,when the elbow joints are bent in this manner they act as a shock absorber, bending with road shock.

Another area you may wish to look at is tyre pressures and or tyre section(too narrow?),too many people ride on rock hard tyres in the belief that they improve rolling resistance,they don't, well not with any significance for everyday riding that is,racing is a different issue and even then I think its over emphesised.

Other things to look at are gloves/mitts with Gel inserts(i find Chiba ones very good)There was a shock absorbing stem on the market at one time I don't know if its still available (google perhaps).

Without further knowledge of you experience type of bike style of riding,mileage,etc, its hard to say much more hope this is of help.

PS let us know how you get on.

Kentish Man · Post by **Kentish Man** » 31 Mar 2007, 5:32pm

After changing to 700 x 23 at 120psi last year I had problems, especially in my left hand. I use gel mits (Altura) and lengths of foam pipe insulation tube from B&Q on the handlebars, with tape over the top. This has helped a great deal. I also changed to 700 x 28 for the winter on 115psi which has cleared the problem for the time being.

SundayInBed · Post by **SundayInBed** » 31 Mar 2007, 6:41pm

You might want to try MarSAS foam available from St Johns Cycles, Bridgewater:

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-0-MarSAS-ULTIMATE-Shock-Absorbing-Foam--1-set-for-Drop-Handlebars--Fits-under-bar-tape-11653.htm

reohn2 · Post by **reohn2** » 31 Mar 2007, 7:31pm

Kentish Man wrote:After changing to 700 x 23 at 120psi last year I had problems, especially in my left hand. I use gel mits (Altura) and lengths of foam pipe insulation tube from B&Q on the handlebars, with tape over the top. This has helped a great deal. I also changed to 700 x 28 for the winter on 115psi which has cleared the problem for the time being.

I weigh 85kgs and ride 700x28's at 80psi,I find they roll well, are comfortable and are a lot more predictable when cornering,when I put 90psi in the same tyres they just rattle my fillings loose.
As for 23's I haven't been there for years, just too narrow and uncomfortable for me.

david grimshaw · Post by **david grimshaw** » 31 Mar 2007, 9:41pm

In addition to all the other suggestions, you might try a suspension handlebar stem. I prefer Girvin - no longer made, but cheap enough to buy in good condition 2nd hand. OK if you have a quill stem, but more difficult to find an A-Head. Had the same trouble on the tandem, but did not want to change things that otherwise worked well. The problem was fairly obvious - 48 spoke wheels, tyres @ 100psi, straight forks, but the Girvin sorted the wrist trouble.
David

georgew · Post by **georgew** » 1 Apr 2007, 1:42pm

reoHn2 Quote:<GeorgeW Looked at the photo of the bar tape,do the barend shifters work OK in that position?>

In my not so humble opinion, they work better in that position than they do stuck on the end of the drops. I think it's because your fingers are curled around the bar-ends giving the thumb to push against. Th opposite being true when the fingers bring the lever back towards you, wherein the thumb now opposes.
I'm always surprised that more riders who find drops unsatisfactory, don't adopt this alternative as every report from the many people whose bikes I've changed in this way, is very favourable. It does give the "on the hoods position" which I find very comfortable, to the rider using flat bars.

reohn2 · Post by **reohn2** » 1 Apr 2007, 11:24pm

georgew wrote:reoHn2 Quote:<GeorgeW Looked at the photo of the bar tape,do the barend shifters work OK in that position?>

In my not so humble opinion, they work better in that position than they do stuck on the end of the drops. I think it's because your fingers are curled around the bar-ends giving the thumb to push against. Th opposite being true when the fingers bring the lever back towards you, wherein the thumb now opposes.
I'm always surprised that more riders who find drops unsatisfactory, don't adopt this alternative as every report from the many people whose bikes I've changed in this way, is very favourable. It does give the "on the hoods position" which I find very comfortable, to the rider using flat bars.

That s for that GeoreW I have thought about it before now for one of the tandems and do like the flats with barends I may give it a try thanks again.