Changing from straight to drop handlebars

[lackofgrip]

I recently purchased this bike for commuting http://www.evanscycles.com/products/tre ... e-ec001494

I want to change it to drop handlebars as I can't stand the straight bar.

Will these shifters work with what's on the bike? http://www.evanscycles.com/products/shi ... 81#answers

If not any suggestions please as the straight bar is sending me around the twist

thanks

[fatboy]

I'm afraid that you will have problems doing this.

1. Road brakes don't work with V-brakes (unless you use travel-agent adaptors etc)
2. You will need a road front mech to work with the road levers (the rear will be OK).

So basically you really are stuck with flat bars but all is not lost. Have you thought about bar-ends? I fitted some of these http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/sjsc-ergo-co ... prod13134/ on my hack bike and they make a difference; there are many other options in terms of bar-ends.

Or you could change your bars to something a bit more whackey! http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/handlebars-o ... pt862_pg1/

Worth thinking about what you don't like about your current set-up before leaping into major works!

[lackofgrip]

Cheersfor reply, what's a travel agent? Front mech is there a big difference? Some of those handle bars are whacky!! Lol I just miss being able to change riding position that's all.

[fatboy]

Cheersfor reply, what's a travel agent? Front mech is there a big difference? Some of those handle bars are whacky!! Lol I just miss being able to change riding position that's all.

Travek agent is http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/problem-solv ... prod24613/ but I've never used one so don't know whether they are any good.

However the more serious issue is your front mech. It seems that the cable comes from the top down (rather than under the bottom bracket). Now road levers don't pull the right amount of cable for MTB mechs and front mechs with cables from above are only MTB mechs.

The other options would be to get V-brake compatible road levers and bar-end shifters (the front is friction and will work with anything).

[700c]

I've always thought about this...the top part of the drop h/bars is flat. So why not mount your existing gear levers and brakes there.

Who's to say that the usual position for brakes/levers on drops is correct? Some manufacturer from 100 years ago I guess.

Of course, I am probably over simplifying things, so if that's the case, ignore this post.

[fatboy]

Use these as bar ends? http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/origin8-pro- ... prod18606/ and leave your shifters on the bars but get V-brake road levers?

[Trigger]

I've always thought about this...the top part of the drop h/bars is flat. So why not mount your existing gear levers and brakes there.

Who's to say that the usual position for brakes/levers on drops is correct? Some manufacturer from 100 years ago I guess.

Of course, I am probably over simplifying things, so if that's the case, ignore this post.

Because the bar diameter is different so MTB brakes and shifters wouldn't bolt up on the flats of a drop bar, I suppose you could bodge something up to make it work though if you were determined.

I'd look at some of the different shaped bars as mentioned. I checked the other day on a long ride and with flat bars and traditional bar-ends I have 4 different hand positions, which seems enough for me.

[700c]

Because the bar diameter is different so MTB brakes and shifters wouldn't bolt up on the flats of a drop bar, I suppose you could bodge something up to make it work though if you were determined.

Ahhh. Of course!

[mattsccm]

Many flat bar bikes are longer in the top tube. As drops put you further in front of the bar clamp you have a greatly increased reach. Changing stem would help but it can be hell of a lot.
Using V's can be done with travel converters or as said, the correct brake levers and alternative shifters ie bar end.
The travel used by the front mech is best described as possibly incorrect for the gear levr not definitley. Some work fine.

[reohn2]

To convert to drops without too much expence:-
dropbar V brake levers,Tektros RL520's,good kit.
Barend shifters,if you don't want them on the bar ends they can be mounted on two of these:- http://www.dotbike.com/p/8040 with a short length of old h/bar.
Note:- it must this particular model as Acor's other type has a smaller diameter clamp and won't take a length of h/bar

This gearlever conversion will place the gearlevers just below the exsisting h/bars either side of the stem depending on how long the h/bar section is that choose to use,the plus is you get a light mount for free!

The other option for the gear change is Kelly take offs :- http://www.kellybike.com/2nd_xtra_takeoff.html

[lackofgrip]

Thanks for reply i think it looks like I'm just going to have to go for a different "whacky" set of handlebars

but i do like those drop bar ends

[UpWrong]

I've ordered a short throw 1" quill stem, nitto randonneur bars, Tektro RL520 brake levers, and shimano dura ace bar ends. This is to convert a mid-90s Raleigh hybrid to drops.

[Malaconotus]

I've ordered a short throw 1" quill stem, nitto randonneur bars, Tektro RL520 brake levers, and shimano dura ace bar ends. This is to convert a mid-90s Raleigh hybrid to drops.

Which will work, and is worth doing if you particularly like the bike, but the bill must be running close to £150 and the average amateur tinkerer will take a day getting everything set up right. And it is still not ideal, in that even a short-throw stem will make the bike handle quite differently, and the bar-end shifters are not as easy to use as STIs. Also, post-conversion, the OP's bike would probably worth be less than it is now, as it will look to the educated buyer like the bodge that it really is. I'm not saying it's wrong for your Raleigh; it's all good conversion kit and yours will be a quality bike because you know your bikes and you know what you are doing.

The OP's bike is an unspectacular, decent-quality, £349 hybrid. It could be sold at a loss of £100 to £150. The £200 to £250 goes towards a reasonable quality drop-barred bike with STIs.

My advice is to try bar-ends and/or butterfly bars as a low-cost conversion to give multiple hand positions. If that doesn't work, sell the bike and buy a dropped-bar bike that suits you. There are just too many incompatibilities between road and hybrid controls, brakes, front derailleurs, chainsets, chainlines etc. for conversion of anything other than classic steel bikes to be economical or sensible.

[graymee]

Maybe I've missed something but I don't think those STI's will work. The Shifters are for 8 speed and the bike would appear to only have 7 sprockets. If it's a cassette I suppose you could use a spacer with the 7 speed cassette or purchase an 8 speed one. If it's a 7 speed freewheel then I think you're scuppered.

[reohn2]

Maybe I've missed something but I don't think those STI's will work. The Shifters are for 8 speed and the bike would appear to only have 7 sprockets. If it's a cassette I suppose you could use a spacer with the 7 speed cassette or purchase an 8 speed one. If it's a 7 speed freewheel then I think you're scuppered.

Nope 8sp shifters work well with 7sp cassette or freewheel as theres is only 0.02mm difference in spacing,8sp is 5mm,7sp 4.80mm close enough as makes no difference.
I've used 8sp shifters with 7sp cassettes and freewheels with no problems.