Cycling UK Forum

Mick F wrote:No it doesn't.
It might do on your bike, but it doesn't on mine.

With a shake.

Tis one thing that rates as HIGH importance as far as punctures are concerned.
When in micturating down rain on a lonely country lane in the moonlight, rear wheel removal should be SIMPLE.

Ayesha wrote:

Mick F wrote:No it doesn't.
It might do on your bike, but it doesn't on mine.

With a shake.

And replace by shaking it back in?

The secret is the frame's measurement between the dropouts. It should be set so there is the optimum clearance to the cones' locknuts when the QR is released.

Too little and the locknuts interfere with the dropouts. The frame may be incorrect.
Too much and the QR movement is inadequte to squeeze the dropouts to the locknuts. The frame may be incorrect.

On a decent bike however, this will be factory ( or framebuilder ) set so a standard hub slips in and out no problems.

'Decent' bikes go down as far as the Dawes Giro range. I know this because the rear wheel falls out and slips back in no problems.

When shopping for a bike, if it has a QR on the rear, release it and see how easy the wheel falls out of the frame. If it jambs, its a BSO.

Those of us who have brake cables emerging from the top of the levers probably also have horizontal rear drop-outs. As MickF says, these should definitely not be called "drop-outs". I still use those clever inner tubes that are not a complete loop. These allow the inner to be removed without removing the wheel. Before that, I usually found it possible to locate and repair a puncture without removing the wheel by just freeing one side of the tyre. Otherwise, ride with a friend and rest the bars on his/her feet!

Ayesha wrote:Go to B&Q and ask the Information Desk assistant for a "Sky hook".

Just don't ask at Harrods, they're liable to get you one:

Ayesha wrote:The secret is the frame's measurement between the dropouts. It should be set so there is the optimum clearance to the cones' locknuts when the QR is released.

Too little and the locknuts interfere with the dropouts. The frame may be incorrect.
Too much and the QR movement is inadequte to squeeze the dropouts to the locknuts. The frame may be incorrect.

On a decent bike however, this will be factory ( or framebuilder ) set so a standard hub slips in and out no problems.

'Decent' bikes go down as far as the Dawes Giro range. I know this because the rear wheel falls out and slips back in no problems.

When shopping for a bike, if it has a QR on the rear, release it and see how easy the wheel falls out of the frame. If it jambs, its a BSO.

The exceptions to that are so numerous as to make it just plain wrong.

In recent years, I've only had one puncture in the wild, at the front.

At home, there isn't much room in my kitchen, and I use Ayesha's technique for removing/replacing the rear wheel, with one extra step: the downstay has a hook for the chain. Using this pulls the mech back, and also reduces chain pressure (or something) on the sprocket.

If I need to upend the bike outdoors, I find some grass, but this wouldn't help a brake cable problem.

I try to change a puncture without removing wheel, tube etc. This works well if the puncture is obvious. Winkle the tube out around the area, find the hole and patch (after checking that the outer doesn't have anything nasty in it) and push small bit back. I find this easier to do that the "proper" way by the roadside and you can just lean the bike.

Audax67 wrote:

Ayesha wrote:Go to B&Q and ask the Information Desk assistant for a "Sky hook".

Just don't ask at Harrods, they're liable to get you one:

The problem with blimps is the difference in mass between the gas inside and its same volume of air has to be more than the vehicle itself and the payload.

Which give me a splendid idea....

Pack a helium balloon and cartridge in your PRK !!!

Many years ago when plodding up to Ben Nevis with a very full rucksack I wondered if a smallish ballon could be developed that would lift the weight of the sack plus a bit of me. Thus reducing the effort and effects maybe of the hangover. I must admit to not considering the effects of any wind!

Sorry, I've been out riding, and I've been neglecting this argument!

To get MY rear wheel out:
Select largest front ring and smallest cog.
Release the brake by pressing the button on the Ergo.
Release the QR.
Lift the bike.
Push the rear wheel forward. (Horizontal dropouts!) It will NOT drop or slide of its own accord.
Pull back the rear mech.
As the wheel tries to drop off the front end of the dropout, it must be moved to the left too.
Why?
Because the bottom run of the chain is in the way of the cassette and the hub and QR!
Because I have mudguards fitted, and have a Garmin Edge Speed/Cadence unit, moving the wheel to the left is not easy. In fact, it's quite fiddly.

If I don't have the mudguards fitted, the job is FAR simpler, as the wheel can go to the left very easily despite the S/C unit.

No it doesn't on mine either, I HATE having to remove the rear wheel. Possible something to do with having a metric sized wheel in a frame designed in the days of 27 inch!

I always turn the bike upside down when puncture fixing/tube replacing. Habbit I suppose. I normally try the old fashioned way first if possible and time allows (not on a club run) i.e. mend the tube without removing the wheel.But on Thursday last, I got two puntures on the rear tyre at the same time (unusual or what? but a lot of flints had washed out of the fields), so whipped the wheel out and changed the tube. And it was a nice sunny spot so I didn't really mind at all.
I put my gloves between bars and grass to protect the bar tape (only one brake lever and it's horizontal), and the waterproof map bag under the saddle. These bags come in handy for all sorts of things!
And while the bike is upside down, it's easy to check the other tyre for flints/stones at the same time.

1. Never even considered the effect on exposed, old style cables apart from common sense, ie not in mud or gravel as it damages the tape.
As for removing rear wheels i do all of the above especially Micks way. Howevver I wouldn't describe it as a pain, just an extra 10 seconds.

I put my gloves/mitts on the floor and place the brake levers on top of them.