Cycling UK Forum

Time ATACs work for me. Easy to walk in MTB shoes, plenty of float and long lasting without any need for maintenance

re Time pedals

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/any-look-quartz-time-atac-xs-clipless-pedal-users-on-here-reviews

seems fairly representative in that lots of people couldn't/didn't get on with other pedals found a good result in the Time ATAC. Some models seems to have reasonable bearings and are durable enough (cleats and springs aside...) for most folk. I have heard of people who have managed to bend the pedal spindle in a prang, but better that than bending a crank, eh...?

They are also better value than many other pedals (even if they are twice the price of PD-M520s..)

NB the XS and XE models (and others for all I know) have an inboard plain bearing (bushing) in them. Whilst this is dirt cheap to replace, it has more friction than a ball-bearing. I have posted before on this; when I looked up the friction coefficients, it shows that you can have about x100 more friction in a bushing than a ball bearing.

IIRC the ball bearings fitted to some other time models are high quality, made from stainless steel.

If your Time pedal has a bulge near the crank then it has durable ball bearings, but if not it may have an inboard bushing.



shows a ball-bearing model.

cheers

520's here as well. worn ones. I reckon I have 45 degrees of float.!

mattsccm wrote:520's here as well. worn ones. I reckon I have 45 degrees of float.!

Funnily enough the only SPD's I've ever got stuck in and fell over,were an extrmely worn pair of cleats.No matter how much yanking I did I couldn't disengage and we and the tandem toppled over resulting in Mrs R2 with a bruised knee and me with a sore ear!

I replace cleats regularly these days

Here's a tip worth thinking about,swap cleats over from shoe to shoe ocasionall to even out wear.

If your Time pedal has a bulge near the crank then it has durable ball bearings, but if not it may have an inboard bushing.

Non of the current models (scroll down) has this bulge. So presumably they are all bushed? They might have very small needle rollers - though these are often difficult to replace.

I have replaced a bearing on the type with the bulge and can confirm it is easy.

Crank Brothers Eggbeaters have a very easy in/out action with plenty of float, but they too have a bushing. On the plus side, all of the spares are readily available.

reohn2 wrote: ....were an extrmely worn pair of cleats.No matter how much yanking I did I couldn't disengage ...

IME two things contribute to this;

1) no/worn/squashed 'kicker ramps' on the pedal

2) a groove in the back of the cleat from the rear claw.

either in isolation can cause trouble, but both together certainly will.

I have dressed a worn cleat (to remove the rear groove) and normal service was resumed.

Some SPD knock-offs have no 'kicker ramps' (the ramps just ahead of the rear claw), and on others they can get damaged.

cheers

robc02 wrote: Non of the current models (scroll down) has this bulge. So presumably they are all bushed? They might have very small needle rollers - though these are often difficult to replace.

Crank Brothers Eggbeaters have a very easy in/out action with plenty of float, but they too have a bushing. On the plus side, all of the spares are readily available.

some discussion of the ATAC bushings here;

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/time-atac-servicing-and-spares

Unlike other eggbeaters etc, Crank Bros Candy 3 and 11 models have roller bearings inboard AFAIK; smoother, but not necessarily weatherproof.

cheers

To the OP:
Have you tried angling the cleats like what Colin and Brucey are talking about? It may be that the natural position of your feet is not perfectly straight. This isn't uncommon. Some people are born like that, others develop this over time. If your natural foot/feet position isn't straight and you or a shop or a helpful friend is setting your cleats dead straight as you would do normally, you will have the sensation that the cleat is forcing you into an unnatural position. It can take quite a bit of experimentation and patience to get the cleats positioned correctly if this is what's causing the problem, but stick with it and you should be able to get the cleats positioned right. I think some people who switch to Speedplay from frustration with Shimano sometimes just never managed to get the cleats positioned right with a bit of angle. Then again you may just need a cleat/pedal system with more float than Shimano. Good luck though. Took me a while to realise I had developed that problem with my right leg. Angled the cleat and problem solved!

edit: I'm referring to Shimano M520 and similar.

I too like/need float. I have tried Speedplay Frogs. Thay are expensive but the cleat is well recessed. I found that the clears wore out quite quickly. When worn they are noisy and annoying. I have now given up using them and gone back to shimano. I did like them though and they helped me work out that float did help me.

I actually prefer the old style spuds that had a plate on the base of the pedal. They are easy to lubricate and are very smooth. The newer ones seem a little more 'grabby'. The only way you can buy the old style ones seems to be by getting the single sided pedals that have a quill on the other side. I think they were called Shimano M324 like these:

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/shi ... gn=froogle

Jezrant wrote:To the OP:
Have you tried angling the cleats like what Colin and Brucey are talking about? It may be that the natural position of your feet is not perfectly straight. This isn't uncommon. Some people are born like that, others develop this over time. If your natural foot/feet position isn't straight and you or a shop or a helpful friend is setting your cleats dead straight as you would do normally, you will have the sensation that the cleat is forcing you into an unnatural position. It can take quite a bit of experimentation and patience to get the cleats positioned correctly if this is what's causing the problem, but stick with it and you should be able to get the cleats positioned right. I think some people who switch to Speedplay from frustration with Shimano sometimes just never managed to get the cleats positioned right with a bit of angle. Then again you may just need a cleat/pedal system with more float than Shimano. Good luck though. Took me a while to realise I had developed that problem with my right leg. Angled the cleat and problem solved!

edit: I'm referring to Shimano M520 and similar.

Hmmm, some interesting responses. In answer to the above, yes, I currently have my cleats offset a little to compensate for the fact that both my feet naturally toe-in a bit. It helped a little at first but after some distance - I commute 25 miles a day - the pain returns, albeit around a slightly different part of the knee. I have gone for many rides with the sole purpose of riding a bit and then stopping to make cleat adjustments. But no real success over many months now. Saddle height/fore and aft has also helped before but the pain eventually returns. I think I just have to try a different style of pedal and see how it goes. I guess I've been partly putting this off because ultimately it means buying another pair of shoes - if I go 2-bolt SPD route instead of 3-bolt racing style and I absolutely love my current shoes.

Thanks for the interest in the thread all.

Hi there
If you are commuting everyday with pain in your knees then I can see why the set up needs to be spot on. Do you find that the knee pain subsides when riding flats? If so, then it seems that it is the clipless arrangement that is the problem. There will be a solution to that no doubt.
I use PD M324 - v comfy when used day in - day out, and over longer rides too. I have no idea how to set them up properly. I have just fitted them to my bikes with everything pointing roughly in the same direction, and with the tension on medium. There is plenty of float. Maybe I am just lucky, but I think not - I think it is the flexibility that comes with the kit that means they work for me. I wonder if the fore and aft fixing of these pedals means they have a bit more ‘give’ than the 3 point fixing with SLs?
I use dual release cleats and these always disengage when needed. I like the dual side of the M324 -as it means I can just jump on the bike in everyday shoes if I am just nipping out for a bit. Dual side might be a good idea for you if you find the knee pain goes with flats? Shop around and the kit (pedals, cleats and shoes) is not expensive.
I hope you get it sorted, let us know how it pans out as I am sure there will be others with similar issues.
Best wishes
Joe

With reference to natural foot position I was very pigeon toed as a kid and had heel inserts for years and so much so I am now quite duck footed. It is easy to get a feel for your normal position by sitting on a table edge with dangling legs and how your feet hang gives an idea - albeit exaggerated, my feet splay to 45 degrees and I'm actually about 30 degrees measured 'properly'. Using spd's I have the cleats twisted slightly and can use them fine.

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I use time mtb pedals and mtb shoes. time rok atack for day rides, time Z control (bigger platform) for touring and mtb bike.

I don't have dodgy knees so the float is fine for me, but I do have sensory problems with both feet and need a shallow release angle.

I had the same problem with Shimano clipless pedals and tried time pedals. They have loads of float and are very easy to get in and out of. I think the ones I have are called axiom and are one sided and ideal for commuting and touring. I am off to do the Way of the Roses using these as well. All in all a great pair of clipless pedals. I dont think they make these any more but there a few pairs on ebag going for £29.99. Give them a try.

Happy riding barbelfisher.

Ribblehead wrote: Does anyone ride with their feet angled so that their heel touches the crank every revolution, because I'm sure mine have that much float available. Likewise, does anyone ride with their feet angled towards the front wheel? Even if people do ride like this, then by angling the cleats on the shoe it is possible to have plenty of float in either direction.

That will be me. My natural foot postion is toe out. Right foot slightly more than left. I even have to shave a small piece off the inside of the right heel on the sole of my Shimano MT42 shoes so the heel misses the seatstay. Even then though by having the cleats set with as much angle as possible I feel I have float in both directions.