Cables and housings for Tandems

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Dave W
Posts: 1483
Joined: 18 Jul 2012, 4:17pm

Cables and housings for Tandems

Post by Dave W »

I'm going to fit discs on my Tandem can anyone recommend cables and outers for the job please and where to buy?
reohn2
Posts: 45997
Joined: 26 Jun 2009, 8:21pm

Re: Cables and housings for Tandems

Post by reohn2 »

Ordinary good quality outers will do the trick(they do on ours).I'm sure I've read somewhere that Avid recommend full length outers for their BB7's.
Ordinary Tandem S/Steel inners should(for the rear) be long enough,again they are on ours which are used with road STI's with the cable running along the toptube and down the seat stay.
I get mine at the LBS,they're sold under the Fibrax brand.
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"All we are not stares back at what we are"
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Brucey
Posts: 46526
Joined: 4 Jan 2012, 6:25pm

Re: Cables and housings for Tandems

Post by Brucey »

there is a good guide to cables for the BB7 here;

http://howtosetuptheavidbb7.weebly.com/how-to-set-up-the-avid-bb7.html

For cable discs I have used ones similar to those receommended by Reohn2 with no worries, though not in tandem lengths as yet.

cheers
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DaveP
Posts: 3333
Joined: 9 Mar 2007, 4:20pm
Location: W Mids

Re: Cables and housings for Tandems

Post by DaveP »

I also remember reading that Avid recommend full length outers, but I think that is in a mountain bike context and the advice is based on the desirability of keeping dirt out.
I fitted a BB7 to the rear of our tandem and I used the outer stops on the frame with just a short length of outer at each end of the run. My reasoning was that less flexible outer had to result in less outer compression - and I'll keep the cables clean and lubed, Thank you very much! It seems to work...

The problem I did encounter was that the calliper moved slightly on its adjustable mountings causing an intensely iritating squealing noise. In the end I hammered some thick copper wire until it was just the right thickness to drop into the slots in the calliper mounts and stop the movement. Just tightening the bolts had no effect at all.
Trying to retain enough fitness to grow old disgracefully... That hasn't changed!
reohn2
Posts: 45997
Joined: 26 Jun 2009, 8:21pm

Re: Cables and housings for Tandems

Post by reohn2 »

DaveP wrote:I also remember reading that Avid recommend full length outers, but I think that is in a mountain bike context and the advice is based on the desirability of keeping dirt out.

Yep that was my understanding too.
I have to laugh to myself,I was distracted whilst writing the post and forgot to mention why :?
I fitted a BB7 to the rear of our tandem and I used the outer stops on the frame with just a short length of outer at each end of the run. My reasoning was that less flexible outer had to result in less outer compression - and I'll keep the cables clean and lubed, Thank you very much! It seems to work...
.

Our Cannondale has interupted outers with a long length of exposed inner wire along the top tube with no ill effects.
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"All we are not stares back at what we are"
W H Auden
Brucey
Posts: 46526
Joined: 4 Jan 2012, 6:25pm

Re: Cables and housings for Tandems

Post by Brucey »

jagwire (and maybe others) do some very nice cable ferrules that have a nylon liner in the ferrule itself. I would suppose that nicely ground outer housing ends in ferrules of that sort would be as good or better than continuous housing of any kind, provided the water doesn't get in.

cheers
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tippo12
Posts: 41
Joined: 13 Aug 2010, 4:23pm

Re: Cables and housings for Tandems

Post by tippo12 »

Hi
I have been using Nokon outers with continuous run inner sleeves on two Santana tandems, one for in excess of six years, and I have previously used the jagwire and Gore cable systems on tandems. IMHO Nokon are the most effective and most compressionless outers you will find, and I have had no problems with them at all. You can also buy oversize (bigger diameter) inner cables in tandem length from SJSC and probably elsewhere, I am unable to say if these are actually more effective but they are substatially thicker so give me more peace of mind, and will run inside the Konon kit. On our old steel framed Santana (now the winter bike) I use Nokon cabling onto avid ti v brakes with a travel agent at the front and suntour SE cantis at the back, both off 10 speed Campy ergo levers, (runs 8 speed shimano perfectly) plus a bar end operated avid drum brake, all cabled with nokon. the drum/drag brake does not benefit from the Nokon but it looks better using the same outers all over. It just all works faultlessly. I had problems with both the Gore and Jagwire systems which only lasted a couple of British winters each, despite carefully fitting as per instructions.
Following retirement I bought an S&S coupled Santana Beyond which uses a 10" bengal disc and avid bb7 road caliper (sintered pads) on the rear, working off ultegra 10 speed sti levers (only way to get drop bars and the 36 tooth 10 speed granny cog) with nokon cabling, and to be honest it is the best brake I have ever had on a tandem, incredibly powerful and has great feel. We are a 180kg team and descended (after very slowly climbing) the Col de Madeleine during this years TdF overtaking solos all the way down, with fabulous braking power into the bends, no brake fade from the disc at all, although it get noisy when hot! We have a place near the Madeleine and i have climbed/descended it many times, this was the fastest descent "in traffic" ever because the brakes engender the confidence that you can actually stop!
I do also have a flat bar dawes ally framed tandem with hope mono ti6 brakes and 203mm disks F&R, but the avid BB7 with bigger disk out performs them.

I bought all my nokon cabling on ebay and didnt pay over 20 quid a set, plus 3 metres runs of inner from the States at a few quid each, so it can be done reasonably cheaply, as you usually need 2 sets of Nokon for a 3 cable braked tandem, plus the extra inner.
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