How do I remove these parts from the head tube?

[cal_tyke]

Hi All,

Hoping you might be able to give me some help with stripping down my '78 Dawes Galaxy in readiness for respraying.
It's the first time I've done this, but I'm reasonably 'handy' and access to tools.
I'm at the point where 'all' I have left to do is the crank/bottom bracket, and two small parts to remove from the headtube.

My problem is with the headtube parts. I can't see an obvious way of removing them and I am anxious not to damage them.
I have stripped out most of the bearing assemblies, including the ball races, so these are the two pieces directly connected and inserted into each end of the tube itself. Hopefully the photo will help with identification (the 2nd photo shows the parts already removed, in order). Are these two remaining parts screwed in, or held with an interference fit, or not meant to be removed or...? How do you recommend they are removed?

Really looking forward to getting this in for painting and part-chroming the forks, and reassembling and riding.
The forks, by the way, have no '531' sticker on them. Was this vintage Galaxy 531 throughout, or just the main frame?

All the best. Thanks for any help.

[Keith Bennett]

The two parts you wish to remove are an interference fit. you need a drift a minimum of 2" more in length than the head tube. the ideal would be a steel tube that will slide down inside the head tube. slide the drift down into the head tube until it sits on top of the lower bearing. Either tap the upper end of the drift with a hammer gradually moving round inside of the head tube, or slide the drift down with a little force until it hits the top of the bearing again moving round inside of the head tube. do not use to much force. after a few taps see if the bearing is begining to move out of the frame, if not a little more force may be required. If you fail to rotate the drift you could push one side of the fitting down and jam the bearing in the head tube. Hope this is clear, easier to demonstrate than explain. Post a reply if it works ok. Good luck Keith

[stewartpratt]

Google for "headset cup remover". Every bike shop will have one, or you can buy one. It's a two minute job to get them out, and it's worth buying your own as it's an immensely satisfying job (you pull the tool throgh from one end, rest it against the cup, and then belt it one with a hammer - WHAM! - job done)

The tool also happens to be top of my list for Good Things To Keep Handy If You Worry About Domestic Intruders. A reassuring mix of wieldiness, heft, and pointy bits at the end.

[cal_tyke]

Thanks folks for the speedy replies, much appreciated. I will look into both approaches.

[Brucey]

a length of 5/16" or 3/8" brass rod works as well as anything for removing headset parts.

IIRC that vintage Galaxy had 531 main tubes only. I think the forks (all chrome under the paint..?) are noticably stiffer than many 531 ones. If you strip the paint off the underside of the chainstays, you may well see a distinct seam in the tubing there.

I have one of these exact frames (back again) right now; after twenty years with the original owner, it saw service as a training bike, then got a load of braze-ons added, went touring again, then fifteen years commuting. All this wound up rotting the chainstays to nothingness, at which point the frame was going to be binned; in a fit of foolishness I decided to have a go at saving it. It took about three hours to get the stem out of the forks, amongst other things, but it is fixed. Almost ready for paint now; it'll probably be reborn with a hub gear -and maybe a chaincase- as a commuter/light tourer.

Revised braze-ons included; pump peg on head tube, double bottle bosses, extra strain relief for the brake cable (with option for continuous cable outer), gear lever bosses, revised gear cable routing (underbracket, cable stop on chainstay moved), rear carrier bosses, canti bosses, chain hanger. Quite possibly the lamp boss will go this time round. Apart from the lugwork, you wouldn't necessarily recognise it as a 1970's Galaxy any more.

cheers

[robgul]

This link to my bicycle trivia site has some Rob's Briefings with a number of tips and (safe!) bodges - including removeal, and refitting, of headset cups.

http://www.beewee.org.uk/index.php?opti ... Itemid=107

Much of the stuff was added having rebuilt about 4 Galaxy machines, including my No 1 tourer which is a 1975 Galaxy*, and various other machines.

Rob

* admittedly it's frame, forks and stem that are original - everything else has been upgraded. It's just a fantastic frame!

[cal_tyke]

Thanks for the additional information and confirming my suspicions about the forks. And yes, the chrome does go to the top of the forks (ie. paint over chrome).
I'm probably going to spend more on this Galaxy than I perhaps should, but I longed for one as a young lad in the late 70s and now I have the funds then why not? Hopefully it will give me many years of service. I'm going to have some extra braze-ons applied for bottles, rack stays and gear levers.

I'm tempted to do this headset cup removal job with an improvised tool and will be searching the garage for something appropriate. Thanks for the tips. I will report on progress.

Not trying to get away from the post subject too much, but can you recommend somewhere in the South (I'm in Hants) which will do a particularly good job of re-finishing the frame, including braze-ons, paint, chrome and probably decals? My default choice was in the East Midlands (no prizes for guessing) but if there's a really strong recommendation for someone more local then I will gladly scope them out.

I'll post before and after pics when complete, in the right place. Thanks again all.

[meic]

I'm tempted to do this headset cup removal job with an improvised tool and will be searching the garage for something appropriate

I had a long, bent punch, which was built like a cold chisel (found on the road whilst out cycling) which worked quite nicely on the Holdsworth. Lots of gentle taps using a hammer, going around the inside of the race in circles.

Then bits of wood, washers, studs and nuts to fit them as given in Rob's link above.

[Brucey]

In the south, you could try Roberts.

On the plus side the quality is usually excellent.

On the downside, it'll cost though.

I did my own brazing work BTW.

cheers

[cal_tyke]

I promised to let you know how things turned out.
I searched the garage for candidate 'drift tools', and found a couple of tubes that looked promising, one was steel, one was a PVC.
After a lot of trying, I couldn't get either to start to budge the cups.
Looked into the cost of the removal tool and I was set to buy one mail order for about £16.
However, I was also removing the crank the same day and was again thwarted by removing the cups at each end of the bottom bracket. It's obviously old and required at least two, probably three wrenches I didn't have. Looked the prices up and I would have been into another £40.
I called my LBS and I quickly succumbed to their offer of £10 to remove everything same day. I dropped the frame off this morning but I swear it was ready for pickup almost faster than the time it took me to walk home.
I'm a big fan of buying the tools whenever you need them, as I like to build up a good set and I will always have a go at a job if I can, but at £10 I couldn't say no, and I really can't think that I would have a big use for them in the future.

Now the frame is ready to be taken for a respray, re-chrome, decals, bosses etc..
I'll need the LBS to help me reassemble the head tube components I guess, but I'm happy to put business their way.

Thanks all for the advice. If there is a next time then I will buy the tool. I was quite looking forward to knocking out the cups in a single whack each!

[regoak]

Usually removing the right hand bottom bracket cup can be problematic. Most have flats, so grip the cup in the vice and turn the frame, remembering that it is a left hand thread.

[Malaconotus]

Thanks all for the advice. If there is a next time then I will buy the tool. I was quite looking forward to knocking out the cups in a single whack each!

The most fun part is knocking them out from the underside and trying to catch them.

[Cycling Cat]

I know it's a little off-topic but the pic shows the Dawes badge slightly faded. I was faced with the dilemma whether to replace it. Because of it being faded I chose not to but am wondering abouts options for restoring it to its place on the headtube. Suggestions please?

[Brucey]

I have used small countersunk stainless steel screws on this style of Dawes badge; works fine.

Paint can be redone in the badge if necessary; its just a bit fiddly to do well.

cheers