Doubt those could work with drop bars. I meant the HS77-

(Image copied from Velosniper blogspot).

mrjemm wrote:Am I right in thinking you can run the longer throw black mtn BB7 version with normal levers, if you use problem solvers' 'travel agents'?
http://problemsolversbike.com/products/travel_agents/
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/problem-solvers-travel-agent/
Or similar, which I'll assume are out there. Though Problem Solvers' has to be one of my favourite websites. The geek in me...
There is a shiny new SL (Superlight?) version of the road BB7 though, with black adjusters
which look quite nifty, though I still prefer my black bodies- if I could find some black adjusters for my black bodies I'd be a happy bunny.
Maybe if you want to use STIs and you're really clever you could mangle together some Magura HS77 (hen's teeth hydraulic road rim brakes) levers with hydraulic disc calipers. Or splash big bucks on new SRAM red hydraulics- http://www.bikeradar.com/road/news/arti ... ook-35887/ Sooo ugly though. Or get a cable to hydraulic converter such as Hope's, USE's or TRP's.
As to the original Q, yes, I have BB7 Mtn cable discs on the Vaya, SLX hydraulics on the Malt 2 and a 2nd set of BB7 Mtn on way for the P7 because I far prefer them.

mrjemm wrote:Shiny things...
Call me daft,
Reminds me of one guy who I got on the phone at Spa a couple of times who'd go on about how he'd ride with random colour bits on his bike when I asked after certain colour of parts (i.e. Ortliebs), which always amused me how proud he sounded to not care about such things. I think it was the same guy who'd told Madame she'd be best not to go for one type of tyre because she'd get bored of getting no punctures with them (though she got 2 in short shrift...).
Mick F wrote:I wonder if disc brakes are the future.
Who invented brakes?
What brakes were first on bikes?
How have bike brakes evolved?
Perhaps disc brakes are the best system so far.
tykeboy2003 wrote:............I can see one disadvantage of disk brakes (particularly if you have a large gear cassette, mine is 9), they significantly shorten the distance between the hub flanges and make the front wheel lob-sided (although they reduce the lob-sideness of the rear). This must significantly weaken the wheels' resistance to buckling.
531colin wrote:tykeboy2003 wrote:............I can see one disadvantage of disk brakes (particularly if you have a large gear cassette, mine is 9), they significantly shorten the distance between the hub flanges and make the front wheel lob-sided (although they reduce the lob-sideness of the rear). This must significantly weaken the wheels' resistance to buckling.
8, 9, & 10 speed Shimano cassettes are the same width, and run on the same hub.
The left and right spoke flanges on a rear disc hub are in exactly the same place as on a non-disc hub, so dishing is the same for disc and non disc.
Rear wheels carry more weight than front....if you can get as little dish on a rear as you get on a disc front, thats a cause for celebration.....so how is a tiny bit of dish on the front wheel a big issue?
531colin wrote: Rear wheels carry more weight than front....if you can get as little dish on a rear as you get on a disc front, thats a cause for celebration.....so how is a tiny bit of dish on the front wheel a big issue?
Brucey wrote:531colin wrote: Rear wheels carry more weight than front....if you can get as little dish on a rear as you get on a disc front, thats a cause for celebration.....so how is a tiny bit of dish on the front wheel a big issue?
The front wheel dish isn't that tiny, and the weight loading is not the only wheel loading by any means.
Dished wheels lose lateral strength before they lose radial strength. Lateral loads on front wheels are not insignificant at times; MTB-ing is a good case in point. Fast tandem work is another. When disc brakes were first talked of for XC, everyone thought we'd be able to run lighter rims. It didn't happen like that; rims stayed the same weight more or less and significantly lighter rims tend to taco too easily even for XC use.
If you run 135mm 7s disc or 140mm 8/9/10s disc, with an appropriate dish for each, your front wheel is often more dished than your rear....![]()
BTW rear disc hubs very often have the flanges ~2mm closer together than non-disc hubs; typically the NDS flange is moved inwards. Whilst this reduces dish and makes spoke tensions more even, it almost certainly also reduces rear wheel strength somewhat.
cheers
mrjemm wrote:Call me daft, but last night when I was unable to get to sleep I was pondering painting some grey shifters black.