Cycling UK Forum

I built up a singlespeed MTB four years ago as an experiment. Iexpected that I would ride it for three weeks, then my 40-something knees would give out and it could go back into the parts box.
The first month was horrible - really hard work all the time and the gear was always wrong. Slowing down for corners meant more hard work accelerating again, etc etc.

Longer term, it made me fitter, tougher and faster at cornering. As a time-poor dad it makes you ride harder, there is no slouching in bottom gear. I've now tricked up the frame with lighter bits which certainly helps on the hills - it weighs 20.5lbs including pedals and 2.3" tyres. Nowadays it's my first choice. It doesn't work everywhere - if I lived in the Peak District it would be awful.

Try it, you might like it!!!!

it's certainly going to divide opinion but i'm on the 'like it' side as a winter thing as it's warmer, i feel that the bike gets better traction in wet/snow (like this morning), i like the ability to quickly trim speed through the pedals and ,yeah, just the simplicity of the ride.

i've done many thousands of miles on fixed gear in winter and do find that i'm tempted back to a fixed steed even in the summertime.

We've been reading with great interest all your advice and views . We certainly didn't expect to get such a response .
General consensus is not to entertain a fixed gear set up,but we would like to try a single speed freewheel hub .
The idea would be to have what we call a "splash and dash" machine,( not quite sure where the splash bit comes in though ) .
We all live on the South Coast and our area is reasonably flat,although the South Downs are just a stones throw away .
The idea is to build a machine that can be used for between a five and ten mile radius,excluding the South Downs .
We feel that by not having front and rear changers,double or triple chainwheels,gearchange controls and a 7sp freewheel cluster,we could save some weight .
If we were to keep to the original specification,( 21sp mtb )then new Fr and Rr changers would be required,plus a new 7sp freewheel cluster . Money saved on those items would go towards an alloy saddle stem and handle bar quill .
After running somewhat over budget with our previous project,we are going to be watching the pennies abit closer on this one .

One of the pleasures of a fixie, not mentioned so far, is that with slicks and a smooth road you travel in near total silence. I find a short ride in the countryside becomes far more enjoyable and I think I see a lot more wildlife that way. Now some may say that their geared bikes make little noise but my other bikes either give a buzz from the derailleur or clicks from the freewheel/freehub.

I like single speed simplicity etc. I tried fixed but didn't take to it. I think I just like coasting too much. It was like being nagged to pedal all the while.
Converting an old bike can be a bit fiddly, getting the chainline, gearing etc right and the costs can mount up.
You either need a frame with dropouts which allow the rear wheel to be moved to tension the chain or a chain tensioning device. Wheels with fee hubs can be fitted with a single speed conversion kit which allows the rear sprocket to be positioned for correct chainline using spacers. This can also be achieved by splitting up an old freewheel.
At first I tried using the existing chainset and freewheel running the chain to the cog that produces a good chainline.
This bike cost me about £60 to convert but £30 of that was for a Surly stainless steel chainring!.

Looking at that picture reminds me that one of the biggest attractions of SS or fixed is that you can fit a fully enclosed chaincase.

Ash28 . . . . That's a very good point about the drop-outs,we hadn't thought of that . Have to check in the morning,but i think they are vertical .
Which brings me nicely to another question ."Flip Flop"wheels . I assume you can fit sprockets to either side of this type of wheel with differing amounts of teeth,would that be correct . Wouldn't that involve some form of chain tensioner if you have vertical drops ?

Ah well then you get into rear dropout spacing which for flip flops I think is 120mm although I think these can be put into 130mm dropouts using spacers. Depending on age etc your bike could be 135mm 130mm or 127mm (5") drop out spacing. Err not sure about using a chain tensioner with a flip flop can't see why it wouldnot work. I have heard of a rear mech bodged err I mean adapted as a single speed tensioner.

Si wrote:The reason for the popularity of fixies at the moment is simply fashion.

In the media, for sure, but there are a number of other factors for me.
Sheldon was a big fixed gear fan and a lot of audax riders swear by it.
I think there is a bit of a "macho" side to it, while in theory it's "simpler" you need to know what you're doing or your bike will always be in the wrong gear, throw you off, and worst case scenario your chain will rip your bike in half. So a fixed gear bike says that you know what you're doing (which is amusing when so many fixed riders really don't). For extra "macho" points you can ride without brakes (personally I went fixed for a third brake that would work when my bike was covered in canal mud).
I like not thinking about gears, I don't struggle with sharp hills (either up or down) and the bike keeps my minimum speed high (which is good for the commute). Frankly I could buy a cheaper, lighter, racer with gears - so I don't think that weight is the issue. I do believe in the dead zone cure though.
I also don't think that SS or leaving your bike in one gear gives you an idea of what it's like, it's a completely different way of riding (almost like recumbent riding).

meic wrote:If I had a fixed gear or single speed, I would certainly be using different muscle sets.
Mostly those involved with walking.

Hehehe...this is my favorite type of response.

I wonder which "muscle sets" will be used that are different between cycling and walking????

Jay

Question time . . . . . yet again .
Having decided to go single speed freewheel hub,we do require advice on one or two area's .
1. There does seem to be quite a range of single speed rear sprockets on the market . Some are listed for BMX application,but when you read further down the blurb they are also recommended for MTB's/Hybrids ect . So,(rightly or wrongly) we're assuming that because BMX style riding is a fairly large market,sellers tend to put them under a BMX heading as apposed to MTB's/Hybrid's . Would that be a fair assessment ?
Also hub threads . . . . are the sprockets a standard thread . As we've posted before,this old MTB is fitted with a fairly standard Shimano 7sp freewheel hub .
2. We have been somewhat surprised by the entry level price of some single cranksets . Even some Shimano triples are cheaper . Being tight old gits,it seemed to us that we could get a double or triple crankset with detachable rings and create our own . Keeping in mind the "tight old gits" theme,we're looking to the second hand market . So any suggestions on any s/h bike spares sites would be appreciated .

p.s. Most of the single cranksets at the lower end of the market that we've looked at,seem to have fixed chain rings . We would like to be able to change the crank wheel to different sizes if required .

jjpeterberger wrote:

meic wrote:If I had a fixed gear or single speed, I would certainly be using different muscle sets.
Mostly those involved with walking.

Hehehe...this is my favorite type of response.

I wonder which "muscle sets" will be used that are different between cycling and walking????

Jay

I always walk on my hands when I'm pushing the bike.......doesn't everybody?

Drake wrote:Question time . . . . . yet again .
Having decided to go single speed freewheel hub,we do require advice on one or two area's .
1. There does seem to be quite a range of single speed rear sprockets on the market . Some are listed for BMX application,but when you read further down the blurb they are also recommended for MTB's/Hybrids ect . So,(rightly or wrongly) we're assuming that because BMX style riding is a fairly large market,sellers tend to put them under a BMX heading as apposed to MTB's/Hybrid's . Would that be a fair assessment ?
Also hub threads . . . . are the sprockets a standard thread . As we've posted before,this old MTB is fitted with a fairly standard Shimano 7sp freewheel hub .
2. We have been somewhat surprised by the entry level price of some single cranksets . Even some Shimano triples are cheaper . Being tight old gits,it seemed to us that we could get a double or triple crankset with detachable rings and create our own . Keeping in mind the "tight old gits" theme,we're looking to the second hand market . So any suggestions on any s/h bike spares sites would be appreciated .

p.s. Most of the single cranksets at the lower end of the market that we've looked at,seem to have fixed chain rings . We would like to be able to change the crank wheel to different sizes if required .

Start with what "comes in the kit". Pick a chainring on the existing crank (hint....try the middle one) . Pick a rear sprocket (hint...somewhere in the middle of the existing block). Put the chain round that ring and sprocket, use the existing rear mech. as a chain tensioner, and ride it as a singlespeed for a bit. Doing this you can try different gear ratios as singlespeeds for no money. See eg. Sheldon Brown re. gear ratios. This will give you a clue as to what ratio(s) to aim for when you start spending money.

531colin wrote:
Start with what "comes in the kit". Pick a chainring on the existing crank (hint....try the middle one) . Pick a rear sprocket (hint...somewhere in the middle of the existing block). Put the chain round that ring and sprocket, use the existing rear mech. as a chain tensioner, and ride it as a singlespeed for a bit. Doing this you can try different gear ratios as singlespeeds for no money. See eg. Sheldon Brown re. gear ratios. This will give you a clue as to what ratio(s) to aim for when you start spending money.

You could also fit the bike out with a cable and shifter,and voila you have a choice of singlespeed ratios for the hilly bits

Drake, if converting a freehub to run a single sprocket (with use of a chain tensioner of some sort, your existing dedangler should be fine),then a simple freehub converter will do the trick. I used an Outland single speed converter from Amazon (comes with a sprocket). Piece of cake to fit. Otherwise if it's an older style freewheel hub, then a basic screw on sprocket will suffice. For chainsets, try and use your existing one to start with. You can always upgrade later if you like the singlespeed concept.

I agree with Si in that a lot of the popularity of fixed at the moment is purely down to it being fashionable. Though you could argue that not many fashions last for ten years or so. I built my first as an experiment just to see if I liked it. Now built three with a new Bob Jackson frame on the way too. I pick and choose my routes when riding fixed as for sure, some terrain is just too damned hard and frankly, you'd be stupid to try. But for flat and rolling terrain, just perfect. I also use mine for light touring (hostelling), no problem at all. Also used it for the Dynamo last summer including the ride back home on Sunday morning. I like fixed wheel (the old phrase, rather than fixed gear), for a few reasons. Dead easy to keep clean, easy to maintain and very relaxing to ride because you just get on with - you make do with the one gear you've got. And if you have to walk, fine, no shame in that. I find I can ride hills better on my fixed than on my singlespeed. I'm convinced that there is a slight momemtum effect in getting the cranks over TDC and hence aiding hillclimbing.

It's horses for courses. Sometimes gear are good, sometimes freewheel, sometimes fixed.