SPD-SL Cleat Postion

[The Mechanic]

Thanks for all the advice. Unfortunately, most of it does not solve my problem. I was hoping someone would come on and say that the cleat hole in the shoes move backwards and forward easily and that I was missing something. However, it seems that a slot in a shoe sole is not always what it seems. Thanks anyway.

[Brucey]

normally the shoes would have come with some instructions, wouldn't they?

Although I am surprised that you feel the need more adjustment, I am also suspicious that the front slot should also be adjustable, and that the red insert should come out somehow; I just don't know how.

Otherwise the rear slots can only be there to adjust for different shoe plate bolt patterns which seems a bit unlikely; they are all the same I think.

Can you e-mail shimano directly I wonder?

cheers

[Ayesha]

SPD-SL cleats with yellow walk pads are the ‘floating’ variety. They have rectangular shouldered orifices which rectangular washers slide sideways in to give adjustment of ‘track’ distance. The washers have slots to accommodate fore/aft movement.
The threaded inserts in the shoe do not move.

The assembly caters for Mr Average +/- about 3% deviation in the position of the Second Metatarsel – Proximal Phalange joint compared with the person’s heel.

The part of the shoe which could be nominated the ‘Datum’ is the very front of the aperture above the shoe’s tongue.
In the correct sized shoe with appropriate sock, the heel and the datum will both be snug.

When mounting SPD-SL cleats, cut out a piece of 30 grit sand paper and glue it to the cleat so the grit imprints in the shoe’s plastic sole. This will get a good grip.

[Brucey]

The threaded inserts in the shoe do not move....

normally, yes, but these



are different to normal. I think the front one is probably meant to move, it is just a question of how.


BTW the kind of double-sided tape that is used to secure car bodywork trim is good for helping to secure SPD-SL cleats. I like to use a little loctite on the screws, too. Both these things can be added once the cleat position has been verified correct and tested.

Also, I think there are two different versions of the yellow insert cleat, and one is better than the other. I'm not sure exactly how or why though.

cheers

[Ayesha]

There are cleats which are NON floating.
I do not know anything about these because I have never used them.

Perhaps, the small amount of adjustment on the Shimano shoe threaded inserts is for the RED cleats.

IMO, this arangement is for cyclists with very close to average feet ratios.

[RickH]

At least one pair of my 2-bolt type cycling shoe had fitted plates that were very hard to move as they appeared to be stuck to the inner layer behind them, presumably with the same glue that was sticking the rest of it to the outer sole. A bit of poking through the holes with a blunt object (small Allen key?) to help reduce its grip plus sideways pressure along the slot eventually freed them. Maybe the same is the case here.

Rick

[ScotchEgg]

The tip I got from a Milk Race Mechanic was this - affix cleats, semi tighten them, enough so that you cant move them with a bit of force. Go out for a half hour, your natural riding position will settle the cleats into the ideal position, they should have left a mark on the shoes by now.

Voila! Perfect positioning, tighten with a little loctite and they're good to go till they disintegrate with old age.

[ScotchEgg]

If you really want maximum adjustment then you should go SPD SL to SPD via this £9 adaptor, will give you about 30mm fore and aft.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_228873