Page 1 of 1

Building a bike - component fitting sequence

Posted: 19 Sep 2007, 2:59pm
by rickangus
I'm just about to receive my new custom Paul Hewitt frame. Most of the components will be coming from my current bike.

I was wondering if there is a particular order in which to build the new bike up e.g.

fit seatpost (so it can be held in a work stand)
bottom bracket
chainset
rear derailleur
etc etc?

Posted: 19 Sep 2007, 3:18pm
by Mick F
Do you have ALL the bits? Do you have a workstand?

I don't think there is an accepted order of things ....

If I had all the bits, but not a stand, I'd get the wheels on first, so the bike can stand up properly. You'll have to fit the forks first, of course.
Then stem and bars, seatpin and saddle. The bike is then handle-able and lean-able.
BB next and C/S, front and rear deraileurs and brakes.
Brake levers, bar tape and cables, then connect up gears and brakes.
Chain, and then the pedals last.

Have I missed anything? Mudguards?

Posted: 19 Sep 2007, 3:25pm
by pigman
I don't have a workstand. My order for a new bike and lay mechanic would be -
1. assemble wheels, ie put on cassette and tyres/tubes
2. join handlebars to stem semi loose, to allow for adjustment
3. fit headset
4. fit bbracket
5. put assembled wheels in frame
6. put stem/bar assembly onto fork steerer, with lots of spacers to allow for adjustment, or as high as poss for quill stem
At this point, bike can be leant against a wall to work on.
7. finalise handlebar angle and put on brake/gear levers
8. put on chainset
9. put derailleurs on
10 put chain on
11 put on seatpin and saddle, at max length to allow for later adjustment
12 put gear cables on
13 put brake calipers on and align brake blocks
14 put mudguards on, centre calipers and tighten
15 loosely put brake cables on
16 put pedals on
17 put handlebar tape on
18 cables are now in place ..
19 get gears working
20 get brakes working
21 final adjustments to saddle height and angle
22 final adjustment to bar height and adjust headset (for ahead)
23 test ride with allen keys/screwdriver to make minor on-road adjusts
24 back at home, check brake block alignment, adjust for stretching/compressing of cables, retrue wheels etc
25 start saving for next bike

note 22 can be a right bugger when you find you need to saw down steerer tube. hopefully, with experience you will have cut before assembly.

Posted: 19 Sep 2007, 3:47pm
by rickangus
Cor! What a great forum - thanks for the quick responses.

Mick, yes I do have a workstand (the same one, coincidentally, as reviewed in C+ recently) and mighty useful it is too. I think I have all the components necessary - the original plan was to transfer from old frame to new but during the waiting period a number of new parts mysteriously appeared in my shed :D

Pigface, really appreciate your comprehensive suggestions and salient observation re the bar height. I'm kind of hoping this won't be an issue because Paul Hewitt spent a couple of hours with me on his jig and has provided me with a spec of the handlebar height and reach etc.

Cheers,

Rickangus

Posted: 19 Sep 2007, 3:52pm
by rickangus
Aaagh!

Just re-read my reply after it had been sent - when it is now too late.

Pigman - I am soo sorry. I've never even met you and you were so helpful as well.

I do hope I haven't offended you too much.

Rick "Monkey face" Angus

Posted: 19 Sep 2007, 3:56pm
by pigman
"pigface" is ok. "Pigarse" wouldn't have been :lol:

Posted: 19 Sep 2007, 4:25pm
by rickangus
You're very gracious!

cheap cable stops

Posted: 19 Sep 2007, 4:48pm
by dbrunner
Just to say I don't put bar tape on until the very end, just in case I want to fine tune the lengths of the gear/cable outers.

Also, don't forget that gear/brake outers are not interchangeable.

Here is a tip... go to the hobby shop and get some thin aluminium tube, a 5-10 mm length crimped onto your cable makes a cheap replacement for the manufactured cable stops. I cut 20mm off with a craft knife and then snip in half with wire cutters - this leaves one end open and seals the other end too.

Voila, no more frayed cables

Dave

Edit: PS don't forget the edit icon at the top of your message to make, errr edits... :-)

Posted: 19 Sep 2007, 6:42pm
by rickangus
Thanks - some useful ideas there - some of which are a bit late now but useful for next time...

I'd forgotten about the brake/gear cable outers; regarding the cable stops I'm sure I'd have a supply of tubing in various sizes and materials from my modelling box.

Posted: 19 Sep 2007, 6:46pm
by leftpoole
But surely its....Wheels in frame and sort the mudguards first? Then you take out the wheels and fit everything else. Refit wheels and chain and go for a ride.
John.

Posted: 20 Sep 2007, 8:33am
by pigman
john28july wrote:But surely its....Wheels in frame and sort the mudguards first? Then you take out the wheels and fit everything else. Refit wheels and chain and go for a ride.
John.


with a bike stand, I could agree. Without, you'd end up bending the mudguards when it was stood on the floor. But then you'd have to put the wheels back in to adjust the brake blocks, take up the slack in the cables and get the gears working.

Re: cheap cable stops

Posted: 21 Sep 2007, 7:34pm
by mr riff raff
dbrunner wrote:Just to say I don't put bar tape on until the very end, just in case I want to fine tune the lengths of the gear/cable outers.

Also, don't forget that gear/brake outers are not interchangeable.

Here is a tip... go to the hobby shop and get some thin aluminium tube, a 5-10 mm length crimped onto your cable makes a cheap replacement for the manufactured cable stops. I cut 20mm off with a craft knife and then snip in half with wire cutters - this leaves one end open and seals the other end too.

Voila, no more frayed cables

Dave

Edit: PS don't forget the edit icon at the top of your message to make, errr edits... :-)


Are you for real? You can buy a bag of 50 cable ends from pro_bike_kit for £1.34 post free

www .pro bike kit.com/display.php?code=T1015 (mod note: take the spaces out for the web site; the forum software doesn't like this site)

Hardly seems worth the effort.

Posted: 21 Sep 2007, 9:07pm
by stevew
Rick,

Did the same myself a couple of years back. The Hewitt frame is good and very tough. Built up into a really lovely bike which i do enjoy riding.

Posted: 21 Sep 2007, 9:35pm
by dbrunner
Good call on the cable ends mr riff.. last time I had to buy them they were 10p each, but at that price you are right, hardly worth the effort.

<edit> However I just tried to order a pack, and no free shipping and the total cost is £4.84, so my 62p piece of tubing looks a bit better :-)

Oh, and by the way... I am real.

Dave

Posted: 21 Sep 2007, 10:07pm
by rickangus
Spoke to Paul Hewitt who said the frame should be going out today so should arrive either Monday or Tuesday.

Told the boss I'm working from home those two days. :lol:

Thanks for the encouraging words Steve - I'm getting excited now. It's been a long wait having ordered the frame first week of June. I didn't wait this long for a new car!

Tidying up the shed, cleaning my tools etc etc in anticipation....