Riding Trikes

[[XAP]Bob]

I would certainly recommend trying the trykers, I like them.

I top out at ~40mph most of the time, occasionally (with a following wind, and on a good day) I can hit 41mph on my commute.
45 was my top speed in the Peak District, 50 is Snowdonia territory. You have to be dropping reasonably steeply (assuming your name isn't Hoy, Wiggins or Froome) and settling in to being as aero as possible.

[squeaker]

I like that idea for a lighting bracket. Not seen it before. Have used similar for mounting a front basket on a DF, so have something with a bit of bar set up already, hmmm.

IIRC I got the idea from one of the BHPC forum members some 8 years ago... Heavy, but useful in that with a suitable (long, angled) stem it puts the headlight both up and forward so you get less 'foot flash'.

But... without trying it out for a 'mounting aid', I'd be guessing it's a tad hazardous with regards to pushing down there would lift the rear wheel (with the parking brake), sending the trike skittering away. No?

The only time it gets pushed down is when I'm working on the front of the trike and want to lift the rear wheel. As a getting-up aid it just gets pulled backwards.

Do you find the 26 twists/flexes? I've noticed both pedalling and steering causes torsional flexing, and wonder if it's simply the length of frame, which could likewise be a factor in the side forces on the front tyres when turning sharply- admittedly this involves being 'playful', but the poor kojaks get a severe side dragging and will surely go bang at some point...

Something definitely flexes on the back of the Sprint 26 as the parking brake rubs when cornering hard(ish), indicating about 2mm of lateral deflection. The wheel would be my prime suspect, as I recall my amazement when watching an early Vortex video: if you think a 559 wheel deflects, take a look at a 622
Staying on the deflection theme, I am convinced that there is visible deflection of the bottom bracket, which is most evident when the left foot is pushing (the right pedal and chain forces tend to cancel out to some extent, depending upon which chain ring is in use).

[tank]

Thanks for the replies.

It looks as though I just need to go out and get the trike and start riding it. Top speed does not worry me as I have never been a particularly quick rider, I average only 10-12 mph to and from work but it is enough for me. I did however go down a hill near where I live and 'MapMyRide' clocked me doing 40.7mph (not good as I was in a 30mph zone at the time - dangerous as cars were parked on both sides of the road outside houses). I have seen that ICE do the handles to help the rider to get up and was toying with the idea of getting them.

I too like the idea of the lighting stem. I had a guy at work make a bracket for my StreetMachine GTe but I suffer alot with foot flash so was looking for something else.

As a fellow occasional bad back sufferer, I'd add another consideration - rear suspension or not? (But then I see you have a Metaphysics, so maybe have thought of that )

I actually don't like riding the Metaphsyics due to its riding position and I keep catching my feet with the front wheel and my arms ache after a short ride as I am unable to relax them. I am not too worried about suspension although I wouldn't count a bike out just because it doesn't have it but it is a bonus to have it.

[mrjemm]

So far my riding of this kind's only been around my way, but some hearty hills here. Probably not up to the Peaks though, let alone Snowdonia; plan for a ride into the Lakes in the near future though, so some fun ahoy hopefully. Mostly the preponderance of narrow lanes, blind bends and dry-stone walls that slows me down right now. An innate fear of going out for a spin without a pannier full of warm/wet weather togs, tools and hearty kryptonite doesn't likely help either.

I just tried the stem trick Squeaker, but the pillar's too fat on mine- no chance of getting it on- I should've known that- I'd looked into the idea of putting a headset cap on it for either a light/gps mount (problem solvers) or bottle mount perhaps (king cage), with the fwd bottle mount being restricted by lighting etc., and it was too fat for that.

My suspicion would be the rear 'fork' twists a bit; I think this would cause the disc to rub too. Talking of which, my front suffers that, but perhaps being hydraulic there's less clearance anyway. I also think that the small increase in wheelbase from 20" to 26" (&700) will make a difference in leverage- especially with longish legs meaning boom extension creating more flex potential too.

Edit- Tank, note my above comment re the light stem; if it's an ICE Sprint you're looking at, it may not work. I am sure there's other options though.

[[XAP]Bob]

40 in a 30 isn't in itself illegal, but between parked cars it's probably not advisable.

[bromt3]

But I want to try a tiller steering one rather than the 'open cockpit' I had on the stick bikes but I've read that they're much harder for novices to learn on and that the Fuego is one of the more benign models. How long have you been riding the Fuego and was it easy to learn to ride?

Hi Tortoise, I have had the Fuego for about 8 months but I started off with an ICE B1 with OC bars and have several hundred miles on that. I found the transition to the Fuego very easy and the tiller steering is quite easy to adapt to in my opinion. I think one advantage over OC is that the position of your arms forces a light grip. With OC if you do not relax your upper body completely the steering will feel very twitchy. A friend of mine who had never ridden a bent before tried both and found the Fuego easier. I must say I miss my OC bars for slow speeds when I found them better, at speed the tiller is slightly better in my opinion.It is important to get the tiller height set properly but this is easy to do; too low and I found the steering too sensitive. I really recommend trying a Fuego I have found mine to be considerably quicker than my B1 was for similar effort. I ride in a city and have found the Fuego to be pretty good in traffic. HTH.

[Tortoise]

Hi bromt3 - that's very helpful, thanks. The Fuego is high on my preferred list for when/if I'm ready to graduate to two wheels. I'm enjoying the ICE though, so it could take a while!

[Geoff.D]

I dunno what I am doing wrong... seeing lots of references to well over 40, and I've struggled to get anywhere near that- thought I hit 40 for the 1st time last week (on any cycle), having my garmin show that, though RidewithGPS said later it wasn't quite there. Again, 39.7 yesterday (as per Garmin, RideWithGPS: 38.2!), pedalling hard down a long steep hill.

I didn't mean to suggest that anyone's doing anything "wrong" in not reaching the higher speeds. I certainly don't do so through leg power. I hit 45 mph ONLY by virtue of gravity, on hills of 15% or more. And it's not just the steepness that's important. On the lanes, it's usually too twisty, narrow, rough and bumpy. Usually I need a widish, straighish, decent surface with a good run-out at the bottom. For example, for those who might know, there's a 15% dip between Over Norton and Chipping Norton....only 200 metres, but gives me 45+

I think there must be a maximum terminal velocity achievable for any given energy/power input. A stronger rider will certainly achieve a higher speed than I can. But, I would suggest, the greatest boost is provided by gravity, and the steeper the hill the greater the boost. All other things being equal, if I want to achieve more than 45mph.......I'll just have to find a steeper hill.

My average touring speeds vary depending on elevation gains per mile. I seem to vary from 9 mph on rides of 70 ft elevation gain per mile to 13 mph with 20 ft per mile. Both are about 1 mph less than my two wheeler bent, and (probably) about 2-3 mph slower than when I rode upright some 10 miles ago. That last comparison is less verifiable, because I didn't really record my rides back then and, I hate to admit, I was nobbut a lad of 55!

[[XAP]Bob]

Gravity is stronger than any legs - and never tires.

That is the simple key to high speeds. Unless of course you go for a full velo in aero trim

One of the key advantages to the trike in such scenarios is the stability, and invulnerability to minor surface defects that could be catastrophic on a two wheeler...

[mrjemm]

Hi Geoff, you didn't make me feel I was going wrong- it's purely a personal observation in comparison to other folk's numbers; and your observations as to the limiting factors are exactly what I am very aware of at the mo- expended a lot of energy yesterday trying to find a big speed hill, and despite some long, straight and steep hills, I was unable to break 39.0 (GPS, 37.1 RidewithGPS) through sheer crapness of surface. Perhaps part of the problem was pumping up my tyres too hard, in the possibly misguided intention of making the climbs easier, but I was getting shaken and thrown about very badly, and was fearful of my rack and pannier breaking off, or my kleen kanteen popping out of the cage and catching in something. All very maddening.

What a day though! "Only" 45 miles, ending in agony of muscles, exhaustion and sunburn, but such a wonderful ride.

I think if I want to improve on those speeds, doing the same route in reverse may be a better option; I often had better surfaces and longer, steadier inclines on ascent rather than descent, but of course going the other way it may not feel like that.

Other factors that could be relevant, included my wearing baggy shorts which caught the wind a lot (little velcro straps were useless), and the balance of seat angle- on climbing I'd want to be more upright; on 1st big one, I found on the steepest parts that it got noticably easier to pedal if I leant forward, steering with one hand, while supporting myself on the other elbow against the seat frame, so after that I raised the seat and would not lower it for each descent. Also, on fast, twisty and sometimes loose surfaced descents, I'd be very wary of braking hard; there is some brake steer (yes, ICE), and the rear wheel could lift/lose downforce at times, so any differential in braking would have little or nothing to resist more extreme steering. Likewise, rear wheel lifting could potentially also result in chainring/heel touching down (heels do anyway occasionally- have scrape to prove!).

As for cattle grids and pot-holes at 30+...

I hope you're not finding this too much a distrction or drift, Tank. Maybe it's of interest, being aspects of riding trikes.

[[XAP]Bob]

Yep - tyres too hard doesn't necessarily help. I find that I can hold the rear wheel straight with the handlebars if/when I lift it, at least straight enough

I'm just wondering if those MTB saddle droppers could be adapted for trike use?

[squeaker]

I'm just wondering if those MTB saddle droppers could be adapted for trike use?

IMHO ditching the baggies would be easier

[mrjemm]

I'm just wondering if those MTB saddle droppers could be adapted for trike use?

IMHO ditching the baggies would be easier

Perhaps not mid ride...

My skinnier shorts are decidedly manky. Not that I really need worry about looking fab for the crowds. Of sheep.

[[XAP]Bob]

Take the bottom off the legs and use in lieu of velcro...

[Geoff.D]

...........through sheer crapness of surface.

Please don't get me started on a rant, mrjemm. Road surfaces are my pet hate and have me reaching for my "Mr Grumpy" T-shirt in double quick time!!!

In no particular order -
1. Potholes caused by winter frosts and/or heavy traffic I can understand, avoid (mostly) and assume that the authority will get round to them (eventually).
2. Crumbling edges due to "temporary" resurfacing that has encroached onto the verge that don't have a sub-base. This has resulted in ever-widening lanes with crumbling edges which are a constant hazard to cyclists, as motorists see the road as wider than the actual "usable" part. It has also resulted in a significant "drop-off" onto the verge (not least because cars drive onto the verge in order to let each other pass). Threatening to a cyclist.
3. Top dressed surfaces which rattle all the fillings in my teeth. Particularly when the top dressing itself is broken and mottled. I definitely see a significant drop in speed when I come onto such a stretch. It's difficult to quantify, because I wouldn't know if I compensate with extra effort (or the opposite). But I'm sure it's there, and probably more so because I've got 20" wheels. I hate this most!!!
4. Dips and bumps in the road, but not necessarily any break in the surface. These could be subsidence, but more often the result of previous work. The most troubling is a trough crossing from one side to the other, unnoticed on a fastish downhill stretch until it's too late.

I've just come back from Bavaria (flatlands and alps) driving a car. Roads as smooth as a baby's bottom. No top dressing. No intermittent/piecemeal patching. Edges mainly defined with kerbs (presumably with foundations) even on rural roads. It was noticable even in a car, and I was thinking about it whilst there, even before this thread started. I guess it's all about political priorities of where tax revenue is spent, and the level of tax levied.

Well.... I feel better for the rant