Rear hub failure
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bikepacker
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Rear hub failure
As anyone come across this problem.
My rear XT hub started making a screaching noise. I stripped it down to find that the gear that is part of the hub and locates into the freehub had come adrift. It looks like it is sweated onto the hub or press on under pressure.
I think the hub is scrap unless anyone can tell me different.
My rear XT hub started making a screaching noise. I stripped it down to find that the gear that is part of the hub and locates into the freehub had come adrift. It looks like it is sweated onto the hub or press on under pressure.
I think the hub is scrap unless anyone can tell me different.
There is your way. There is my way. But there is no "the way".
That's a new one on me. I think you're saying that the insert which has the spline teeth & accepts the 10mm allen bolt is loose in the hubshell. If it is then the only bodge I can think of is Araldite, and I doubt if there's enough gap between the parts for that to work. I'd scrap it, keeping the freehub, axle & cones as spares for the next one.
If at first you don't succeed - cheat!!
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bikepacker
- Posts: 2312
- Joined: 5 Jan 2007, 7:08pm
- Location: Worcestershire
- Contact:
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bikepacker
- Posts: 2312
- Joined: 5 Jan 2007, 7:08pm
- Location: Worcestershire
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I'm scratching my bald patch over a grinding noise at the mo' on the hack. I thought the rear bearings were shot, (no) or the freehub working loose (also no). I've replaced a knackered front mech which was dragging on the chain, checked the rear "B" screw adjustment & there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with the B/B. Pedals are brand new. Still the bloody thing groans in inner ring 1 & 2.

If at first you don't succeed - cheat!!
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bikepacker
- Posts: 2312
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It wasn't the 10mm bolt that failed it was the part attached to the hub with the female thread. I agree Hampster it would not completely fail as the axle and cones were keeping it in place but the stresses of pedalling were creating movement at the fracture causing the noise.
There is your way. There is my way. But there is no "the way".
bikepacker wrote:Yes. I was thinking along the same lines as you. Keep the parts and scrap the hub shell.
Did think of Araldite but I don't this it would take the stresses on the part.
I know nothing of this but it maybe worth contacting Loctite who do a range of metal securing glues. With their help, and a free tube of stuff that they gave me, I was able to repair a frame part on a BSA M33 many years ago.
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bikepacker
- Posts: 2312
- Joined: 5 Jan 2007, 7:08pm
- Location: Worcestershire
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Chris.
Tried to upload a couple of pictures but cannot get it to work. I have sent an email to technical department and attached them to it.
Cheers
If anyone else wants to have a look go to http://www.bikepacker.co.uk/hub.htm
Tried to upload a couple of pictures but cannot get it to work. I have sent an email to technical department and attached them to it.
Cheers
If anyone else wants to have a look go to http://www.bikepacker.co.uk/hub.htm
There is your way. There is my way. But there is no "the way".
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bikepacker
- Posts: 2312
- Joined: 5 Jan 2007, 7:08pm
- Location: Worcestershire
- Contact:
It looks to me as if the main body is threaded as well as the smaller part that has come adrift.
If that is the case then I would have expected the freehub retaining bolt to thread into the smaller part as well as the main body, thus adding continuity to the construction.
If the freehub bolt is not long enough then all the torque is being applied to the inset, not good.
Hard to tell from the photo though.
Odd... Dave
If that is the case then I would have expected the freehub retaining bolt to thread into the smaller part as well as the main body, thus adding continuity to the construction.
If the freehub bolt is not long enough then all the torque is being applied to the inset, not good.
Hard to tell from the photo though.
Odd... Dave