Cycling UK Forum

Hi,
Just wondered if anybody had advise about waterproofing. I have a Gore Tex Paclite jacket to do & a Winstopper jacket. Are the wash in proofers any good?
Thanks.

I use Nikwax on a range of outdoor gear - cycling and walking, some Gore Tex some not and of various manufacturers. (Altura, Sprayway, Rohan) I have to say that I don't think it's as good as it makes out - all those lovely pictures of beaded droplets! - but it does make a bit of an improvement to wetting out. I found the Nikwax footwear products much more in line with the advertised claims! - Excellent.
Remember to wash in non detergent soap, again Nikwax or "Soap Flakes" (Brand) a blue box from your supermarket and substantially cheaper than Nikwax Loft Tech or equiv (which I also use though).
Would finally say check the care labels, Graingers water proofing products insist on tumble drying which is not always permitted on the garment. That is mainly why I stick to Nikwax.

If you're washing/proofing the waterproof in your washing machine it might help to run the machine empty and with no conventional detergent first.
I believe that the wetting agents in washing powder/liquid can overcome the effect of the non-wetting agents in the proofing materials.
Alternatively you could hand wash and soak.

Having said all that, I doubt that you will get the original performance back.

I tried soap flakes on Gore Tex waterproofs a long time ago in the late 80s, with no sucess. Since then I have used Nikwax Tech wash. I ensure the washing machine is free from normal detergant (tablet powder always used then only in the drum and no softener ever used in the tray for normal washing). I have found it is important not to put to much liquid in the machine. After washing the items are turned inside out and left to drip dry outside, once the water has stoped driping (ensure the hood is turned to get the water out). I then put them in the tumble dryer on it lowest temperature setting just to get the fabric dry but only warm. It is then left to cool on a hanger . Later it is ironed with a cool iron with the garment the right way out, if not sure about the thiner fabric a peice of A4 cane be used to stop the iron sticking to the item, at the same time checking all the seam seals that I can.
I have found that this bring back the surface beading also stoping it weting out. The trade term for the beading is DWR and shouldbe mentioned on the garment care lable.

It always seems a little odd to me that the manufacturers of Goretex advise waterproofing what is allegedly a waterproof and breathable fabric. If it's meant to be breathable what happens when you waterproof the outer with something which isn't breathable?

I've bought two Goretex garments over the years and both started to let in water after a couple of years. In contrast my breathable Helly Hansen hellytech jacket is still waterproof after 8 years and numerous machine washes. It's never been reproofed in any way and the outer absorbs little , if any, water.

Gortex is a laminate, rather than a hydrophilic coating, therefore you can't rewaterproof it. If it leaking then send it back as true gortex has a lifetime guarantee! If it is no longer beading then wash in pure soap and tumble dry as high as you dare (depending on how much fleece is on it as well) No need to iron - in fact you can melt the gortex laminate if you do iron. If you wash in other solutions then you will reduce the breathability to some extent.

(The above advice is from hubby, who is a sailor and has dealings with Henry Llloyd and others!)

melw1 wrote:Gortex is a laminate, rather than a hydrophilic coating, therefore you can't rewaterproof it. If it leaking then send it back as true gortex has a lifetime guarantee! If it is no longer beading then wash in pure soap and tumble dry as high as you dare (depending on how much fleece is on it as well) No need to iron - in fact you can melt the gortex laminate if you do iron. If you wash in other solutions then you will reduce the breathability to some extent.

(The above advice is from hubby, who is a sailor and has dealings with Henry Llloyd and others!)

From the Goretex website
"Gore recommends applying a topical water repellency restorative for outdoor fabrics, available at your local outdoor retailer. "

I know they guarantee the stuff for life and I've had both mine replaced and both started leaking again so gave up on it. What I want from a wtaerproof garment is reliability ie it won't let in the wet. It's scant consolation to know that although your jacket has left you soaked and freezing on Scafell you can send it back to the maker and get a new one.

I agree, Pete75.

Just to go on further about Gortex... If it is leaking then either the laminate is delaminating or it is cracked. (or of course the seams aren't sealed properly) Also, if it is no longer "beading" then obviously the outer layer becomes soaked. This then has to evaporate before the inside can start to breathe. So, one may feel wet, but that could well be perspiration rather than a leak.

Either way, you just want to be dry!

The best tips I can give are look on the Gore Tex web site as this has care instructions for differant items, look at the washing lable in the item. Also do a search for dwr gore tex, this will reveal a lot of other care tips.

I read elsewhere that salt is a killer for Gore Tex. The tip is to wash it regularly to avoid salt from sweat lodging in the fabric. Apparently the crystals expand when they re hydrate delaminating the fabric.
I am doing this with my very expensive Gore Tex jacket, Time will tell!

Hi Bygad - just mentioned this to hubby (sailor - wears gortex in salt water most days) - just rinse it through - too much soap will reduce the beading capabilities and allows the outer laminate to "wet" which stops it breathing. Rinse and tumble dry is best way forward. But if it has reflective stuff then tumble on as hot as you dare! (The beading mechanism - DWR - is reactivated by heat) If tumble drying fails then use the topical potions... (Hubby also tests sailing gear for Henri Llloyd so knows all the ins and outs of the stuff)

melw1 wrote:Hi Bygad - just mentioned this to hubby (sailor - wears gortex in salt water most days) - just rinse it through - too much soap will reduce the beading capabilities and allows the outer laminate to "wet" which stops it breathing. Rinse and tumble dry is best way forward. But if it has reflective stuff then tumble on as hot as you dare! (The beading mechanism - DWR - is reactivated by heat) If tumble drying fails then use the topical potions... (Hubby also tests sailing gear for Henri Llloyd so knows all the ins and outs of the stuff)

The best sailing waterproofs are, apparently, yellow, welded pvc which doesn't cost very much. I'm told this by the professional fishermen on our local fishing smacks. They spend a lot of time on deck in the North Sea in winter so they should know.

Yes I should have mentioned that by 'wash' I meant put in machine with no soap and tumble dry on low. Sorry, I do it so often it's habit.

pete75 wrote:
The best sailing waterproofs are, apparently, yellow, welded pvc which doesn't cost very much. I'm told this by the professional fishermen on our local fishing smacks. They spend a lot of time on deck in the North Sea in winter so they should know.

Certainly easier to wash the smell of fish off

Before you wash your garment, besides washing out detergent residue with a 'quick wash' type cycle before you put your garment plus Nik Wax in, it's worth taking out the wee drawer into which you normally put the detergent/softener and giving it a good scrub to get all the gungy bits of old hardened detergent off.

Keith