Cycling UK Forum

Just got a folding bike (Decathlon b fold 7). Mainly for commuting. This is the first time I start some serious cycling (serious for a newbie) so I want the fit to be as optimal as possible. I did casual cycling before but never really thought of fitting properly. Now I read this

http://www.downtube.com/Bicycle_Fitting ... index.html

And did the measuring and found the saddle is kind of 'aft' by 5 cm (the weight is at about half of my foot at almost the highest point of the arch). The problem is the saddle is already at the most 'fore' point, which means it can not go any more 'fore' (but can go aft). I did this measuring when the saddle height is at proper height (leg is straight when the peddle is at the lowest point).

So what do you suggest?

you can find more different ways of setting up a bike than you can shake a stick at.

Try a few others and see if they agree. Get a second opinion.

The final arbiter is of course if you are comfy or not.

cheers

Hi,
From your post it sounds like your pedal is in the middle of the sole of shoe (foot on flat pedal no foot retention, i.e. clips / SPD clipless):?:
If this is the case then IF your ball of foot (big toe knuckle) was over the pedal spindle then you would need to move saddle aft a bit.

If your size 9 / 10 shoe then the ball of foot ideally should be forward of the pedal spindle by about 12 MM for a basic set up, if you also use what system you describe in link (which is KOPS Knee Over Pedal Spindle) then average height male 6' About 60 - 70 MM Nose of saddle behind Bottom Bracket is about standard starting point with a 9.5 " long saddle approximately.

As you are using a folder which is probably handle bars higher than saddle then its not a classic road bike set up and you will probably be limited by reach of saddle to handle bars, so you will never realise full performance and comfort when you start to push it a bit for six miles plus at a sweating pace.

Saddle height is important here for comfort firstly, when you want more speed with comfort bike fit needs to be more precise, see how you get on.

NATURAL ANKLING wrote:Hi,
From your post it sounds like your pedal is in the middle of the sole of shoe (foot on flat pedal no foot retention, i.e. clips / SPD clipless):?:
If this is the case then IF your ball of foot (big toe knuckle) was over the pedal spindle then you would need to move saddle aft a bit.

If your size 9 / 10 shoe then the ball of foot ideally should be forward of the pedal spindle by about 12 MM for a basic set up, if you also use what system you describe in link (which is KOPS Knee Over Pedal Spindle) then average height male 6' About 60 - 70 MM Nose of saddle behind Bottom Bracket is about standard starting point with a 9.5 " long saddle approximately.

As you are using a folder which is probably handle bars higher than saddle then its not a classic road bike set up and you will probably be limited by reach of saddle to handle bars, so you will never realise full performance and comfort when you start to push it a bit for six miles plus at a sweating pace.

Saddle height is important here for comfort firstly, when you want more speed with comfort bike fit needs to be more precise, see how you get on.

No clip, just my bare feet with shoes. Thanks for the info now I realise the instruction in the link is probably for the road bike. Anyway, my saddle can't go any aft so nothing I can do. I agree with you I spend more effort on my folder than 'bigger' bikes but the convenience is I don't have to cycle the whole route from home to work everyday, which is 15 miles one way. So that's something I can accept. Thanks.

Hi,

thotwielder wrote:And did the measuring and found the saddle is kind of 'aft' by 5 cm (the weight is at about half of my foot at almost the highest point of the arch). The problem is the saddle is already at the most 'fore' point, which means it can not go any more 'fore' (but can go aft). I did this measuring when the saddle height is at proper height (leg is straight when the peddle is at the lowest point).

So what do you suggest?

thotwielder wrote:Anyway, my saddle can't go any aft so nothing I can do

Obviously a typo, so which is it

NATURAL ANKLING wrote:Hi,


Obviously a typo, so which is it

Sorry, I meant the saddle can't go any more 'fore'.

Hi,

For my cheap folder I set the saddle as aft as it will go, just to
get more reach to the bars. KOPS is the first thing to ignore
if the geometry doesn't work out, with no front adjustment.

rgds, sreten.

Conventionally the saddle clamp is positioned behind the seatpost (either by orientation of the post if the clamp is integrated or by fixing it pointing the other way) giving what is generally termed the "layback". On some folders, notably Bromptons, the arrangement is the other way round giving a negative layback (or layforward?). Is yours like this & if not is it possible to make it so (some seat clamps won't have enough angular adjustment to work in reversed mode)?

Rick.

Slight variation on this subject. In the olden days (well at least 50 year ago) wasn't there a belief that the distance between the front of the saddle to the stem, should equal the length of the forearm from the elbow to the fist? Or something like that.

bikepacker wrote:Slight variation on this subject. In the olden days (well at least 50 year ago) wasn't there a belief that the distance between the front of the saddle to the stem, should equal the length of the forearm from the elbow to the fist? Or something like that.

Yes , I've used this technique on all my bikes....elbow touching the end of the saddle nose...then hand outstretched towards the handlebars - then add the thickness of 2 fingers and thats right for me.....it used to be four fingers when racing.
if you find you are wildly different when you measure yours than there might be something wrong with the saddle position.

Hi,
Although it might be scoffed at, if you have a big "APE" index (arm span ((max)) bigger than your height) then you need more reach on the Top Tube.
So some logic in that.
I have a + 6.5" ape index so my bikes are large frame thus long top tubes, I also have a longish thorax too.