Brucey wrote:FWIW those chainrings have pins and ramps to help upshifts but not much to help downshifts. Obviously it won't help exactly but I don't think the problem with the downshifts is entirely confined to the fit of the FD to the chainrings.
If you fit a braze-on type FD on a modified adaptor (eg with a wedge in it) you can get the FD to fit the chainrings better and this will help. However different chainrings, with downshift gates, and/or different chains/chainrings (eg chains that have different side plates, chainrings that have slightly different width teeth vs the internal width of the chain) can make a big difference to the downshift quality too.
IME even teeth that are 0.1mm wider than is ideal (for the chain in use) can completely wreck the downshift performance.
cheers
I concur, upshifts are no problem.
As far as I'm concerned for me the downshift from middle to small ring isn't either; most of the time! I know what I can get away with downshifting interms of what load it will cope with and in what sprocket, when I get it right it's fine. Normally I can 'see' or 'know' what the incline is about to do enabling me to plan my gear change within the parameters of what works. For sure occasionally on a holiday I may be unfamiliar with the route and get caught out, but this is so rare that for me it's not an issue, or if you prefer, that much of a compromise.
That said if I had an braze on FD I would modify with an adaptor just as Brucey referenced! I can even visualise myself making a point of telling everyone about it sitting in a cafe when we are talking about our bikes; Infact there is a part of me that wishes I had a braze on FD just so I could do just that
